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yes and it is a little better but still have to make sure it is sealed by pushing on it. someone had suggested there might be a part that is like a strip that runs up the side of the door that will help. does that make sense?yes and it is a little better but still have to make sure it is sealed by pushing on it. someone had suggested there might be a part that is like a strip that runs up the side of the door that will help. does that make sense?
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I have had this issue with my french door kitchen aid freezer drawer. I have a toddler who sometimes gets into the drawer. If it is left open just a hair, it will melt everything completely and water leaks out all over the floor.
The drain gets clogged when the door gets pushed back in for a tight seal and freezes again. Try to focus on keeping a really tight seal every time you open and then close the freezer...its almost like you have to TRY to close it hard to ensure it is closed. Total pain, but it works. When the door is closed tight, it stays like it is supposed to .
My kitchen aid bottom drawer freezer kept melting and freezing to block the drain and then water would leak out all over the floor. I did the WHOLE fridge/freezer defrosting process once, when i really just needed to do the bottom. I have had issues with other Kitchen Aid (NEW BTW) appliances so I've talked to many repair people. One guy who came out to fix something else, told me that the freezer is really a pain to get to close completely. SO, when you don't close it all the way (Extra push) it will melt and then re freeze when it is closed properly. He suggested I take everything out, leave it open and use a hair dryer on the ice until it melts. Then use a wire hanger to unplug the drain to make sure its draining properly.
It works! You really have to make sure the drawer is shut ALL the way. I have a 2 yr old who is constantly opening it up...this is my issue! The seal is not that great and you have to really push it closed to prevent the ice build up issue.
1.check if the fan inside the freezer is running 2. if ref runs none stop, defrost timer is out. 3. or it could be the high limit that paired in series with the defrost heater good luck!
The GFI had becme stuck - yes we had plugged the fridge into the GFI which is apparently a bad thing to do. Replaced the GFI (and moved in away from the fridge) and all is well.
Molly, The hot bar is a normal part of the sealed system (compressor) operation. The relay they told you about is on the back of the compressor and I would not recommend you changing that. The refrigerator is a balanced system, the freezer air removes the heat from the refrigerator side. If the compressor runs all the time, look for food close to the edge and not letting the doors close completely. Move items back. Don't over pack the freezer, the air must circulate. The refrigerator of today runs longer and uses less power that the old refrigerator. If you are still having issues with this model call a authorized Kitchen repair person in you area and ask how much they charge to come to your house and give an estimate.
there is two bolts oin the very front of the unit behind the kickplate the oiu can turn clock wise until there is a slight tile toward the back of the unit so that the cams on the doors will have a little bit of gravity to helop them stay shut.
sounds like a door closure is broken on refrig door, a 2 part door closure(cam). look under door where sits on hinge, freezer door should have as well(use for comparison as to broken or not)
yes and it is a little better but still have to make sure it is sealed by pushing on it. someone had suggested there might be a part that is like a strip that runs up the side of the door that will help. does that make sense?
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