Battery low signal, then shuts off.

1.Purchase a Grounding Connector from your local hardware or home improvement store. A 3-Wire, 15-Amp, 125-Volt should work for you.
2.Cut the old connector off of your cord.
3.Remove 1 inch of the plastic insulation from the cut end.
4.Strip the ends of the exposed wires.
5.Disassemble the new connector. Usually small Phillips screws are used.
6.Connect the stripped ends of the wires to the new connector.
7.Reassemble the connector.

Take the two pieces of the cord back to Lowes and find a replacement matching cord. Just ensure the wire guage is the same.

Things You Will Need

• Dyson DC07 power cord



• T15 Torx-bit screwdriver



• Small can



• Camera or cell phone with camera



• Flat-head screwdriver, 3/4-inch or smaller



• Needle-nose pliers

Tips

• Do detach the black wire that goes to the motor as it does not require removal.

Warnings

• Do not work on the power cord when it is plugged in.



• Do not force the plastic-covered connectors from the switch or you could break the male ends. Pull them off firmly but gently to avoid breaking the terminals.



• Do not apply too much force to the plastic arms that hold the housing in place. The plastic arms are fragile and may break easily.

References

• DysonMedic.com: Dyson DC07 Motor Replacement Guide

1 - Unwrap the power cord from the Dyson DC07. Detach the handle of the vacuum cleaner by pressing the release button. Pull the handle from the hose. Slide the hose down the wand and push the button at the bottom to release the hose from the machine.

2 - Press the button at the top of the dust bin handle to remove the canister bin assembly from the Dyson DC07.

3 - Lay the machine on with its back with the power switch facing upward. Locate the Torx screw directly beneath the switch actuator. Remove the Torx screw, turning it counterclockwise. Place the screw into a small can so you do not lose it.

4 - Remove the switch box housing held in place by the Torx screw just removed. Carefully pry upward on the two plastic arms that clip the housing in place. Take a picture with your cellphone or camera of the open housing to make it easier to reinstall the wires where they belong in the channels and spaces provided.

5 - Center the needle-nose pliers on the female connectors from the power cord attached to the switch. Apply equal force to pull them from the male ends of the switch. Also detach the two wires that connect together within the housing, identified by the clear plastic connector between them. Depending on your machine\'s manufacture date, the wires might have different colors. For example, they may be white and brown, all white or one could be blue. Disconnect a total of four wires -- two from the switch and the two connected together. Leave the other wires alone.

6 - Trace the electrical cord on the machine until you reach its protective cover where it enters the Dyson DC07. Lift up the cord protector to remove it from the vacuum. The cord protector has slotted sides that fit within the plastic. Slide the cord protector from the power cord.

7 - Remove the plastic covers that protect the female ends on the power-cord wires that connect to the switch. The new power cord does not come with these. Insert the tip of the flat-head screwdriver through the top of the plastic connector with two internal ridges. Lift upward and away to pull the wire free from the connector. Repeat for the other wire. Push the female end into the plastic connector until it snaps into place. Repeat for the other power-cord wire.

8 - Thread the new power cord through the cord protector. If you have trouble pushing the wires through, reach in with the needle-nose pliers to pull both wires through the rubber protector.

9 - Reconnect the two separated wires back together by inserting the male end into the female end of the other wire. Reconnect the two wires from the power cord to the switch. Reinstall the switch housing on the machine. Align the wires in the channels provided to keep them from being pinched or pulled out when you reassemble the housing. Look at the photo you took earlier as a guide, if necessary. Insert the wire that goes to the motor in this channel and the white wires connected together to the left of the switch in the area provided.

10 - Put on the switch housing cover and secure it with the screw you removed earlier. Reassemble the vacuum in the reverse order you dismantled it.

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/charles_6bf94c079488b145

Dear Cheryl,
The power cords are pretty standard from all theses TVs.

Please remember that these power cords have 3 pins (male side), being 2 flats and 1 round that connects to the wall. On the other side it also has 3 flat pins cast into the plastic/rubberized female side. These are standard power cables for the majority of the sound/video equipment you will find in the market.

If the connector at the TV (male) is of the same type in power cord you have (female), in other words, if it fits and completely locks in, then, YES! Go ahead and use it. There is no problem whatsoever.

IMPORTANT - BEFORE CONNECTING THE CORD TO THE WALL ("live" power), please test if your connector fits the TV set completely.
I hope I have helped you.

Hello! The trouble code is telling us that the voltage to the Camshaft Positioning Sensor (CMP) is low...The connector that plugs into the sensor could be open, the sensor itself defective or low battery input to the sensor...See diagrams below as to sensor location...Lets eliminate...The wire colors in the CMP plug are...Pink...Black/White...And Light Blue/Black...If you connect a voltmeter to the Pink wire you must read 5 volts...Push a safety pin into the rear of the in-place connector into the Pink wire so it contacts the pin that the wire is crimped to...(+) probe of meter clipped to that pin and (-) probe to bare metal chassis ground...Key on...Meter set to read 5 volts...If 5 volts is present that eliminates a battery fault...Next push the safety pin into the Light Blue/Black wire...Turn on key...(+) probe to that pin...Should read about 2.4 volts...If you read nothing, or less than 1 volt the sensor is defective OR the connector pins to it are fouled...Pull plug and inspect both male/female pins for oil...corrosion...etc...Radio Shack sells a product called DeOxit...It's the best (no touch) spray contact cleaner...Send results...PS...Best meter to use is a digital one...$20...Guru...saailer
Remove engine cover:

CMP at top of drawing with timing chain cover removed for clarity...

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

First check to see if your'e getting power to the amp by using a test light and touch the main power(12V battery) connector on the amp, test light should come on since it's constant 12v supply. Now turn on the radio and test the remote wire connector on the amp and you should have 12V(test light should come on). Also make sure that you have a good connection with your ground wire, check both connection points to make sure it's good. Now if you have power where your'e suppose to and when your'e suppose to and the amp does not power up, then it may be time for a new amp. Try wiggling the connections at the amp a bit, the solder may be cold/loose.

Parts are few for these machines (all I found was the blower tube). That being said, you can carefully cut off and remove the faulty male plug and replace it with a repair piece like you would add onto a damaged extension cord (outdoor type). They are made of plastic, but are fairly sturdy. Just carefully cut away the old male connector (the shrod isn't really necessary and remove the wiring from it. After purchasing the male-type plug replacement, rewire it and you will be set to go. To eliminate the male cord and the female end of the extension cord you will use from pulling apart when in operation, just loop the female end cord around the cord of the blower and it will hold in place.

Make sure the new socket is properly grounded. The black wire is the ground wire. Sometimes the wire[s] get loose at the turn signal switch connector. Remove the plastic shroud from the steering column directly under the steering wheel. The wire to be concerned with is orange with light blue tracer.This is the wire for the right rear turn & brake. It may be loose in the connector. Wiggle & gently pull on the wire. If it comes out of the connector, the little tang will need to be carefully pried out a little bit to make it lock when pushed back in place.

Count the number of hole that the SMPS female connector has. It would be in two rows. Look for an opposite male connector with pins in two rows. Number of pins should be the same. There is only one such male connector. Set the female connector on its counter partin such a way that the locking pins of one go into the locking slot of the other.

If you have a BackUPS CS, you are probably either using it with the USB cable that is supplied or with the 940-0128A supplied by APC, which permits running the UPS in dumb mode. By building your own cable, you can now run the BackUPS CS models (and perhaps also the ES models) using smart signalling and have all the same information that is available as running it in USB mode.
The jack in the UPS may be easily use a 8 pin RJ45 connector. It is easy to construct the cable by cutting off one end of a standard RJ45-8 ethernet cable and wiring the other end (three wires) into a standard DB9F female serial port connector.
PC Signal PC pin UPS Pin UPS signal RxD 2 2 TxD TxD 3 8 RxD GND 5 7 Ground FG Shield 4 Frame Ground Though these UPSes are USB UPSes, APC supplies a serial cable (typically with a green DB9 F connector) that has 940-0128A stamped into one side of the plastic serial port connector.
Here is suggested scheme of original 940-0128A cable
APC Part# - 940-0128A computer --------- Inside the Connector--------- UPS DB9-F | | RJ45 pin - signal | | Pin - Color | | 4 DSR ->|---+ | | | diode resistor | 6 DTR ->|---+---->|----///---o kill power | 8 Orange | | 1 DCD <-|----+ | | | | 2 RxD <-|----+----------------+--o low battery| 3 Brown | | | 7 RTS ->|----------+--///--+ | | | | | +--///--+ | | | | 8 RI <-|----+----------------+--o on battery | 2 Black | | | 9 CTS <-|----+ | | signal | 5 GND --|-----------------------o ground | 7 Red | | 3 TxD | | | chassis | Chassis/GND |-----------------------o ground | 4 Black | | | Not connected | 1, 5, 6, 9, 10 --------------------------------------