Sounds like the tech will solve it forye..
There is a temperture probe in the outgoing air stream that controls the dryer temp by sending a signal to the thermostat control to turn the heating element on and off or the gas, depending on which you have, this is the most common cause of your type of problem. Here is how you change it, the instructions are generic but work for almost any dryer.
GENERAL INSTRUCTION FOR REPLACING A DRYER THERMSTAT
Disconnect the power source to your dryer before you conduct this or any other repair. Either unplug the unit from the wall outlet, remove the appropriate fuse from the fuse box, or flip the appropriate breaker in the circuit breaker panel. Your dryer uses multiple thermostats to regulate its internal temperature. The cycle selected determines which thermostat is used. The cycling thermostat can be found somewhere in the path of air that is leaving the drum. So, it could be found on the blower wheel housing or inside the venting/exhaust system. Dryer thermostats are usually oval shaped and about an inch and a half in length. Also, there should be two wires leading to each thermostat. Label these wires before you remove them so that you are able to correctly reconnect them later.
The wires to the thermostat are connected using metal slip on connectors. Remove the wires by pulling on the connectors, and not the wires themselves. It may be a good idea to use a pair of needle nosed pliers to help you.
The thermostat itself is attached to the dryer with two screws. Remove both screws and discard faulty cycling thermostat. Install new thermostat, securing it in place with two screws. Reconnect the two wires, reassemble your clothes dryer, and restore power to the unit. Run your dryer through a cycle to make sure it is working properly
It is the heating element circuit which need to be checked, since the problem is intermittent and happen any time, it concludes that its coil after heats breakup the circuit.
Reset Button is not causing this problem, as it is heating and then stops suddenly, or heating low.
Let me know more about the dryer so I can investigate further.
If this dryer heats sometimes and does not heat sometimes.that means every thing is proper in the dryer.the simple problem is when the inter nal circuit gets heated the unit stops heating.so you have to just open your device and do a dry solder to the dryers circuit and the soldering joints will become firm.and then check it will work.leave it off for some time so to get the board dry after dry solder then on the dryer.it will work.
thanks.
yes exactly the circuit gets cut off after it gets heated.
and dry solder is a soldering machine which blows hot air and from that hot air the soldering on the machine gets firm if some where it is loose or becomes loose after getting heated.
and the repair person will understand what is dry solder.try this.
feel free for any further queries.
thanks,
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Could be a problem with the thermal cut off . it is two pieces when you buy them, one is the non resettable type, ( the smaller one ) and the other one is automatically resets itself ( the bigger one ). this could be the problem, it takes a long time to reset.
normally, you replace both of the them.
tnx 4 using fixya,
drcool
you can check it by using a multi meter to check for continuity. check all sensors for continuity. but if it is intermittent, then do the test when it is not heating, other wise you will not find the faulty component.
open the back cabinet and check all sensors that you will find. you will find about 4 sensors there.
tnx again, drcool
that would be the best time to test those thermal cutoffs. when it is no longer heating up.
tnx for the update Bob,
drcool
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HI,
If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:
Power from the house
Check
to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in?
Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two
fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only
one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the
two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are
connected.
Heating element
Often
a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker
or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special
wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity
means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating
elements aren't repairable.
Thermal fuse
On
many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside
the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually
embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the
fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)
Wiring
A
common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the
dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still
tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially
defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and
the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.
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I just checked the dryer again. Now it appears to be heating. So it is an intermittent problem, the worst kind to reproduce.
So it is getting power, the circuit breaker could not have been tripped, the heater wire must be connected but occasionally it runs but does not heat.
Asko does have a resettable reset button which I pressed but did not feel any give or click which the service man said I would if that was the problem.
Does a long time to reset mean a week?
I have cleaned out the hose and the service people also checked the interior of the machine.
What would cause the machine to work sometimes and not others?
When it does not dry, it runs all night long.
Thanks for trying but I do not think we are solved yet. Is there a way I can check the other thermal switch?
Is there something I can do to test the solution?
Regards,
Bob
Should I tell this advice to the service team? I have soldered but am not comfortable trying it on the Asko dryer. I would not even know where to start. Finally, what is a dry solder?
Actually, are you saying that the dryer will appear to be heating up and then the thermal cutoff will kick in and the dryer will just run all night long because it will sense that the clothes are still wet?
Thanks for your advice but I am still looking for a solution that I can use or give to the service team.
The Dryer is an Asko 7005, Type TD 70A, Capacity 5.0KG and Serial No. 9621-044693. So it would make sense that it was made in 1996 when we moved and has been used almost daily since. Do you think we have gotten our money out of it and should replace it? When it works, it does a great job.
Thanks for your input. Let me know if you need more information.
Regards,
Bob
FYI I started the dryer and tried to dry a towel which I had run under a faucet to get damp. The dryer seemed to be heating up. When I returned in 10 minutes, the dryer was running but luke warm air was coming out and the drum was also luke warm. Does this help?
I will try again tonight once the dryer cools down and see if I can get heat.
Regards,
Bob
I let it sit for 5 hours after it started to heat then went luke warm. It is heating now but I expect it to be luke warm when I go back in 15 minutes.
Is this something I can fix or do I need to bring in a technician?
I am in Boston, MA.
Regards,
Bob
I was asked for more information and replied that the Dryer is an ASKO 7005, Type TD 70 A, Capacity 5.0KG and Ser no 9621-044693.
I have received no answer since and the technician is to arrive Wed. at 2 PM.
Thank you for any additional guidance.
Regards, Bob
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