Washer will not drain water or go into rinse and spin cycle

Washer wont run or spin...check the lid switch and lid switch wires first, Picture. Make sure the lid switch "clicks" and you should test it with a ohm meter. The timer is suppose to allow a "pause" before the machine can switch into pump and spin. If the timer misses this pause, the washer may not spin = new timer time. For some "how to test" for a no spin problem, please see here. Burnt wire ( esp at the motor ) can stop the washer from running. The start capacitor can prevent the motor from running, the start capacitor can be beside the motor, or up in the consol area. How to ohm meter test a capacitor.

Bad cord or house fuse, try a radio in the washer power outlet to make sure it is live. Washer wont run or spin...check the lid switch and lid switch wires first, Picture. Make sure the lid switch "clicks" and you should test it with a ohm meter. The timer is suppose to allow a "pause" before the machine can switch into pump and spin. If the timer misses this pause, the washer may not spin = new timer time. For some "how to test" for a no spin problem, please see here. Burnt wire ( esp at the motor ) can stop the washer from running. The start capacitor can prevent the motor from running, the start capacitor can be beside the motor, or up in the consol area. How to ohm meter test a capacitor.
Bad cord or house fuse, try a radio in the washer power outlet to make sure it is live.

for the pictures as where to look just click this link

http://www.applianceaid.com/images/lwawp...

for the pictures as where to look just click this link
http://www.applianceaid.com/images/lwawp-lid-switch-unplug.jpg

how to check if the timer is fitted corectly

Timer wont advance... Locate the 2 small black wires going to the timer motor, check these with the washer running for 120 volts. Power there and the timer won't advance = a bad timer.

how to check if the timer is fitted corectly
Timer wont advance... Locate the 2 small black wires going to the timer motor, check these with the washer running for 120 volts. Power there and the timer won't advance = a bad timer.

if misses the cycles then check this

Missing cycles or timer stalls in middle of cycle...often this is a timer contact problem, remove power, access the timer and remove metal or plastic cover. Look for blackened or burnt contacts. If the timer contacts are pitted black or burnt, replace the timer. If you have to "wiggle" the timer knob to make the washer work, this is another timer problem, new timer time. New picture of a timer with a burnt contact is here. If your timer is moving part way through the cycle and then is stopping in certain parts, this link here may help you out. if misses the cycles then check this
Missing cycles or timer stalls in middle of cycle...often this is a timer contact problem, remove power, access the timer and remove metal or plastic cover. Look for blackened or burnt contacts. If the timer contacts are pitted black or burnt, replace the timer. If you have to "wiggle" the timer knob to make the washer work, this is another timer problem, new timer time. New picture of a timer with a burnt contact is here. If your timer is moving part way through the cycle and then is stopping in certain parts, this link here may help you out.

for the picture of the burnt contact just click here to check

http://www.applianceaid.com/newpics/burn...

for the picture of the burnt contact just click here to check
http://www.applianceaid.com/newpics/burnttimer2.JPG

whirlpool lid switches ....are failing in a strange way. The switch can be ohmed and will check ok, switch will make a "click" noise if you push a screwdriver down the hole to activate it, the switch body is not cracked or broken....but the switch is BAD!!

The internal workings of the switch has lost it's "value" and has weakened....means the switch must be pushed all the way down to activate it rather than being pushed about 1/2 down to activate the switch normally. When the washer lid is closed, the lid probe goes down through the hole but can no longer push far enough to activate the switch. I have changed about many of these in the last year for this problem.
Related links:
~ Accessing the lid switch on a direct drive washer
~ How to by-pass a lid switch for testing the washer whirlpool lid switches ....are failing in a strange way. The switch can be ohmed and will check ok, switch will make a "click" noise if you push a screwdriver down the hole to activate it, the switch body is not cracked or broken....but the switch is BAD!!

The internal workings of the switch has lost it's "value" and has weakened....means the switch must be pushed all the way down to activate it rather than being pushed about 1/2 down to activate the switch normally. When the washer lid is closed, the lid probe goes down through the hole but can no longer push far enough to activate the switch. I have changed about many of these in the last year for this problem. Related links: ~ Accessing the lid switch on a direct drive washer ~ How to by-pass a lid switch for testing the washer

Sometimes something works it's way into the pump assembly, this will make a clicking or scraping noise. When the motor drive coupler starts to wear down, the washer may also become noisy. Loose tub nut and drive block will be noisy in the spin only. See how to take apart info.



just click on this blue lines for brief description

Sometimes something works it's way into the pump assembly, this will make a clicking or scraping noise. When the motor drive coupler starts to wear down, the washer may also become noisy. Loose tub nut and drive block will be noisy in the spin only. See how to take apart info.

just click on this blue lines for brief description

Whirlpool direct drive washer- useful parts breakdowns.
One the base.....

Two the clutch.....

Three the tub.....

Four the top.....

Five the brake assembly.....

Six the transmission/gearbox.....



just click on this blue lines for brief description
Whirlpool direct drive washer- useful parts breakdowns. One the base.....
Two the clutch.....
Three the tub.....
Four the top.....
Five the brake assembly.....
Six the transmission/gearbox.....

just click on this blue lines for brief description