Question about Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

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Kenmore Front load washer #417, basket assembly fell out

Rob Says:
October 4th, 2008 at 10:39 pm Complete basket/drum/motor assembly falls out of machine!!! Anyone else have this problem aside from the spider assembly corroding?
I was at Sears this morning, then called service for problems with our Kenmore front loader Mdl#417-41142000. They told me they were unaware of any problems. Just found this site. The two springs that suspend the plastic tub cut through the eyelets on the tub, the oneside completely through. The tub/motor assembly fell to the bottom of the machine denting out the side of the washer. We had a sears repairman out a while ago and he told us 1,500.00 for repair. Also said any damage to the motor or electronics or anything else would be my responsibility, materials,labor. He was persistant upon getting my credit card number to start repairs. When he said he couldn’t troubleshoot any electronic damage until we paid to have a whole new tub assembly installed, only then could they check to see if the controls or motor had been damaged. I asked about worse case senario to repair, he told me over 2,000.00. I conveyed that this model was purchased for 849.00, a little over 2 years ago and now is selling for 549.00 new. I asked if there was any rational in spending 1,000 to 2,000 dollars to fix a machine that you could buy new for $549.00. And why Sears would not just replace the machine not to waste my or his time. He persued my credit card to start repairs and I told him to get out of my house. I have been looking for problems with this model and just found all the complaints, I couldn’t find complaints these last 2 years. An honest sears sales person at one of the hardward stores told me to go to corporate for complete replacement. I called today and got the major run-a-round. Now I know why. hasEML = false;

Posted by ribose on

  • ribose Oct 05, 2008

    docjohn174,

    I recieved your advice on the compressor switch repair for the kenmore frig, thankyou. The washer has been sitting in the basement for two years, have spent many hours trying to get sears to repair it. (could't throw out a 2 1/2 year old $849.00 appliance. We ended up buying a non sears brand washer. When I was at sears talking to a very honest sear sales person about the frig breaking and the washer in the basement, she told me that sears should replace the washer with a new one, and that the tub/drum assembly had a 10 year warranty. If they didn't replace it, she said to go higher up in the company until I found someone with ethics. Still searching. We bought high end sears appliances to take care of our family just like our parents. Our first appliances were sears hand-me-downs that serviced 2 generations. Obviously, they are making expensive disposible appliances today. We don't have the disposible income to buy new appliances every few years or support the sears repairman.

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john gagnon

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Hi. thanks for the question. i would go to Sears customer service .and demand a replacement washer

Posted on Oct 05, 2008

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Spinning cycle makes a lot of noise


See if the tub will spin freely by hand. Spin it both ways. It should coast silently to a stop. If you hear a dragging sound or it doesn't spin smoothly look for a sock between the inner and outer tubs. Start looking in the upper left side at about the 10:00 and 11:00 positions. That's where i usually find them.
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While moving, my front loading washer fell off the handtruck onto its side. It hasn't been used yet since the fall, but I friend told me there may be problems with the drum. Anything I can do?


One thing I would do is remove the front lower panel (three small screws at floor level) pull out on the bottom of panel to pivot and remove,,You now can inspect most of the insides pay close attention to the shocks that support the drum assembly. The insides of these move a lot so if any side panel is pushed in it will probably hit when running

Nov 22, 2010 | Kenmore Front Load Washer

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My duet makes a loud (out of balance sound) when spinning @ high speeds. (it's not out of balance tho) the outer plastic drum seems to have a groove worn into it


The problem is the dreaded broken spinner support or what is called the spider assembly. It is the three-arm assembly that holds the basket to the shaft. Unlike the basket which is stainless, the spider is made of aluminum that corrodes with time and usually breaks during the 6th or 7th year of the machine.

The bad news is, the spinner support cannot be purchased separately. It comes as a complete assembly with the basket which is covered by at least a 10-year warranty. The most frustrating fact is that the spinner support is not covered by the same warranty even though they come as an assembly which costs at least $500, a non-economical repair to invest.

Here are some videos of owners of Sears Kenmore Front Load Washers who had an issue with the spinner support. Most Sears Kenmore Front Load Washers are manufactured by Whirlpool like the ones in the videos.



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This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

KENMORE top load, direct drive, neutral drain washers are made by Whirlpool.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Assuming that the springs are OK and that the vibration pads are in place and not worn, (See the Sears diagram or the following Whirlpool Service manual)

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

the problem points to the brake.

The washer uses a brake system to stop the basket at the end of the spin cycle.

Just like a brake on a car, it's designed to slip a bit so that the basket / car doesn't come to an abrupt halt.

Over time, the brake shoes can jam against the brake drum and bring the basket to a halt too quickly with a lot of noise.

A way to solve this (that I tried and it works) is to pull the basket tube / brake assembly and if the brake shoes look OK, spray a small amount of silicone spray on the inside of the brake drum.

Following is a description of how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor, transmission and basket drive tube on Whirlpool / Kenmore / Roper direct drive washers.

As an aside, you don't need a special spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. I've found that a short (10") pipe wrench hooked over one of the spanner nut tabs and tapped with a hammer will usually loosen the nut. Also, rather than hitting the Drive block directly with a hammer, put a short piece of wood under it first to protect it.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137


Following are the Whirlpool Service manual for this type of washer and the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial washers although the consumer models are basically the same. Whirlpool (and Sears) have replacement brake pad / spring sets.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

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Washer bangs a few times the end of spin cycle just before coming to complete stop


This assumes that you have a KENMORE top load, direct drive, neutral drain washers are made Whirlpool.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

The problem points to the brake.

The washer uses a brake system to stop the basket at the end of the spin cycle.

Just like a brake on a car, it's designed to slip a bit so that the basket / car doesn't come to an abrupt halt.

Over time, the brake shoes can jam against the brake drum and bring the basket to a halt too quickly with a lot of noise.

A way to solve this (that I tried and it works) is to pull the basket tube / brake assembly and if the brake shoes look OK, spray a small amount of silicone spray on the inside of the brake drum.

Following is a description of how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor, transmission and basket drive tube on Whirlpool / Kenmore / Roper direct drive washers.

As an aside, you don't need a special spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. I've found that a short (10") pipe wrench hooked over one of the spanner nut tabs and tapped with a hammer will usually loosen the nut. Also, rather than hitting the Drive block directly with a hammer, put a short piece of wood under it first to protect it.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137


Following are the Whirlpool Service manual for this type of washer and the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial washers although the consumer models are basically the same.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Dec 05, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

Kenmore 417.44102 is 5 yrs old. The other day, it started making a banging noise on final spin. I can manually turn the stainless tub, but do hear a grinding noise, as if the tub is rubbing against...


sounds like th bracket on the back of the basket has broken. just replaced mine and itwas abit ofa bear. teardown is all from the back and itis almost a complete teardown, remove back panel and top, remove struts on the lower drum assembly, remoive drive belt. the large drum assembly has a bunch of screws tht holdit together(heads aretoward the front of the waser) remove all of the lower screws, removeth springs from the top of the drum ssemblyand remove he srings. take out thescrews fron th top halfof the drum assembly. the back half should now comeout. remove the bolt holding te drive pully onto the drum assembly then th plastic drum assemblycan b removed from thebassket. the back of the basket has a bracket on it I bet itis broken. this is a 200 dolar part, (basket) and replacementis the reversal ofremoval. it is a difficult and somewhat time consuming repair butit was well worth it for me

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I have a zanussi washer/dryer but lately its making so much noise !! its driving me nuts please tell me what it could be ?? thanks


Hi

Thanks for using FixYa. If your washer is a front load washer then check these things if it is making noise--
Bellows
The bellows is a rubber sleeve that seals the suspended outer tub to the stationary cabinet front at the tub opening. Its purpose is to provide a water tight opening into the tub that can be sealed by the cabinet door, yet allow flexibility for the oscillation of the tub during the wash and spin cycles.
Outer Tub Assembly
The outer tub assembly is supported by two suspension springs and stabilized by two air shock assemblies. A cement counter weight is mounted to the front of the outer tub by screws. A counterweight is molded into the rear half of the outer tub. These counterweights prevent excessive oscillation of the entire suspended assembly during an unbalanced spin cycle.
Spin Basket Assembly
The spin basket is constructed of stainless steel. The circumference of the basket is perforated to allow water to flow through it as it revolves. A heavy steel shaft is pressed into the spin basket support which is then bolted to the basket. The spin basket assembly is entirely supported by two ball bearings pressed into the rear of the outer tub. A large drive pulley is mounted to the free end of the shaft that extends through the rear of the outer tub. There are three plastic vanes mounted to the spin basket to aid in the washing action during the wash cycle. The rotation of the spin basket provides both the washing action during the wash cycle, and water extraction during the spin cycle.


High pitch "jet engine" noise--A certain amount of motor whine is normal during the spin cycle.


Rattling and clanking noise--
• Foreign objects such as coins or safety pins may be in drum or pump. Stop washer and check drum. If noise continues after washer is restarted, objects may be in pump.
• Belt buckles and metal fasteners are hitting wash drum. To prevent unnecessary noise and damage to drum, fasten fasteners and turn items inside out.

Squealing sound or hot rubber odor-- Washer is overloaded. Do not overload washer. Stop washer and reduce load.

Thumping sound— Heavy wash loads may produce a thumping sound. This is usually normal. If sound continues, washer is probably out of balance. Stop washer and redistribute wash load.

Vibrating noise--
• Washer is not resting firmly on floor. Move washer so it rests firmly on floor. Adjust leveling legs. NOTE: Some shaking of the washer is normal without moving across the floor. See INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS for details.
• Shipping bolts and foam blocks have not been removed during installation. See INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS for removing shipping bolts and foam blocks.
• Wash load unevenly distributed in drum. Stop washer and rearrange wash load.


Please do rate the solution and revert for further assistance.


Thanks

Rylee



Nov 10, 2009 | Zanussi ZWD12270 Front Load Washer / Dryer

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