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It could be a loose wire on the terminal of the compressor. Also check for loose wires on the thermostat. If that is ok, the thermostat could be bad because it is a temperature controlled switch that turns the compressor on or off.
It sounds like the wire you're describing is the defrost thermostat. The defrost thermostat is responsible for controlling the defrost cycle of the refrigerator. The flat piece of metal with hooks at each end that you mentioned is likely the clip that attaches the thermostat to the evaporator coils in the freezer compartment.
To reattach the thermostat, you will need to follow these steps:
Locate the evaporator coils in the freezer compartment. The coils are typically located in the back of the freezer.
Carefully place the hooks of the clip onto the evaporator coils.
Insert the metal prong on the end of the thermostat wire into the clip.
Ensure the wire is properly seated in the clip and that the clip is securely fastened to the evaporator coils.
Put back the cover panel of the freezer compartment
Check that the thermostat wire is not pinched or crimped and that it has enough slack to move freely.
Plug the refrigerator back in and turn it on.
It's important to note that working with the refrigeration system could be dangerous and it's always recommended to contact a professional if you're not comfortable with the task.
on the side of both defrost controls is a diagram black is normally power white is normally nuetral wire the black wire will go to the center of the switchs defrost heater
will be on one side compressor to the other white to the clock moter green was hooked to the metal case if you have a mutitester the clock moter will have constant continuity even after the timer has been turned till it clicks the heater will go on the contacts that have continuity for the shortest amount of time
on the back of most older units was a wiring diagram constant defrost has power even when t-stat is set to off
cumulative the defrost only has power when compressor is running the diagram on old defrost timer should be simaler to the diagram on the old defrost timer the lighter colered tab is normally white wire
hope you have a tester but if you are inclined hook up black and white only turn control till clicks when you have the black wire in the correct position the moter will run no matter where the control is turned
then find wire that starts compresser it will need to be placed on the switch that maintains contact the longest leaving the
heater wire to hook to the contact that stays closed for 20 to 30 minutes
most defrost controls wire the same be careful wiring is 120 volt
There is one compressor that serves both the freezer and refridgerator compartments. You need to confirm if the evaporator fan in the freezer compartment is working. When you open the door to the freezer, you should see and hear the evaporator fan in the freezer compartment running. Particularly if there is a demand on the unit through the thermostat setting. If the evaporator fan is not operating, you can check the evaporator fan motor with a volt meter to see if it's getting power. If its getting voltage, but not operating, you need to replace the evaporator fan motor in the freezer compartment. There are 3 wires that attach to the evaporator fan motor. One hot wire, one neutral wire and one ground wire. The ground wire is usually marked green, the voltage wire is usually marked black and the common wire is usually marked white. You should get a reading on your volt meter of a voltage from the hot post to the neutral or from the hot to the ground. If it is getting power but will not operate, then it is definitely a bad fan motor that would need to be replaced.
Not an original solution - but a good one. Remove panels at the back of the freezer compartment to expose the heater unit or heater wire that defrosts the freezer coils and wrap a solid copper wire gently around the heater/ heater wire and place the loose end in the drain. This will conduct heat to the freezer drain and help keep it open. I did see a manufactured part in one of the appliance parts websites but it did not match my unit.
take off the back panel inside the freezer and in the coil you'll see the defrost heaters(about 3'' glass tube,look for a burned wire or a loose conection to the heaters that might sparked or ground with the wet freezer walls.
check your freezer door see if it (ajar) what you can do if you can unplug unit clar drain with hot water then get apiece of shave wire hook on the defrost heater and put in drain line 1/8 in the drain line put back wall back together and plug unit in
PLEASE DISREGUARD GUEST FIXYA SOLUTION,FREEZER PROBLEM PROCEDURE IF NOT DEGITAL,FIRST CHECK IF ICE ON BACK FREEZER WALL. STEPS-FIND DEFROST TIMER,BOTTOM FRONT ,BOTTOM BACK, INSIDE FRIG.ON CONSOLE,LISTEN TO SEE IF FAN IS RUNNING IF SO TURN THE DEFROST TIMER CLOCKWISE TILL YOU HEAR A CLICK SEE IF FAN TURNED OFF IF SO YOUR FREEZER IS IN DEFROST,FREEZER WILL COME OUT OF DEFROST IN 20-30 MINUTES IF IT DOES AND THE FAN COMES ON YOU HAVE ELIMINATED DEFROST TIMER&FAN,NEXT REMOVE BACK PANEL TO FREEZER IF THERE IS ICE FORMING REMOVE BOTH LEADS TO HEAT AND CHECK WITH VOLT METER ON OMES,IF YOU GET ANY READING THE HEATER IS GOOD,IF NO READING REPLACE HEATER AND CLIPON TEMINATOR,IF HEATER IS GOOD DEFROST COILS WITH HAIR DRYER TOP TO BOTTOM AND THIS WILL ALSO CLEAR THE DRAIN,IF EVERYTHING CHECK OUT GOOD DEFROST TIMER ,FAN ,HEATER, DRAIN, YOU NEED ONLY TO REPLACE THE LITTLE ROUND CLIP ON TERMANATOR,LET ME KNOW-MIKE
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