Question about Jabra GN9125 Wireless Headset

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The arm won't stay in place. It is loose and falls down.

As stated above, when you place the arm where you want it, it just falls down. Can this be repaired or fixed?

Posted by Lisa Rennell on

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uoftenwinny

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Try to fix its' screw tight. I don't know whether it is the problem or not. also you can take it to a computer repair store and fix it.

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Posted on Dec 28, 2011

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Changing blade scroll saw


Loosen the knob at the rear of the top arm - turn it counterclockwise several turns. The blade should now be loose. Push the "blade end" of the top arm down slightly with one hand while you unhook the top of the blade. Lower the blade a little to unhook it from the bottom arm.

Replace the blade. Hook it onto the lower arm first - you can look underneath to see what you're doing. The blade's teeth should point DOWNWARD - it's easy to accidentally install it the wrong way, so check that now. Again push down slightly on the end of the upper arm, then hook the top of the blade into the upper arm's blade holder. It should how stay in place, but loosely.

Now return to that tensioning knob at the top rear. Tighten it slowly until the blade is BARELY tight, not loose. Tighten the knob 1/2-turn to one full turn tighter to tension the blade.

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you may have a bad set of splines either on the wiper transmission arm that the wiper arm attaches to or the splines in the wiper arm were it makes contact with the attaching point that you tighten.look closely as if these splines are bad it won`t matter how tight it is it will slip.you may have to get a new wiper arm(or used)or replace the wiper transmission depending what you find.assuming of course you mean the wiper will not move at the speed it should be compared to the other arm

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1 Answer

THE LEFT FRONT WHEEL ADJUSTER ARM KEEPS COMING LOOSE AND FALLING FOWARD


Hello there, the arm keeps falling loose because the bolt which is supposed to tighten it from the inside might have fallen of as a result of continuous vibration from use of the machine or the lever mechanism which holds it in place has gotten slack or disconnected from its actual spot on the lever.
Check the adjuster for a bolt which is meant to come with it if it is still in place tighten it with either the screwdriver or spanner whichever is appropriate. If this is not the case then the lever behing the adjuster is what needs to be set properly to hold the adjuster in place.
Hope this solution has been helpful?
Thank you for visiting FixYa.

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1) The lever at the back that keeps the foot up when threading etc will not stay up on it's own. When you put it up, it just falls bak down a second later. 2) The needle won't go up and down,...


it sounds like the take up lever has either come loose or is broken, & since the needle won't go up & down it needs to be checked

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1210 tone arm won't stay down. When I unscrew the


Check the point where the arm piviots, maybe a screw has come loose. Depending on the type of cartridge it should track at 3 to 4 grams.

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Upper spray arm falls off during operation, even after snapping


the clips that hold it in place are worn. you will have to replace it. they are not very expensive. to remove it simply unscrew the round disc above the arm

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Casio pathfinder SPF 70-s titanium band adjustment


I purchased a Casio Pathfinder solar/atomic watch, with compass, altimeter, barometer, thermometer, model 1200T-7WC (titanium).
Has the titanium band - on this particular band each link is somewhat waveshaped {i.e., there are 2 "arms" from the link making contact with the middle part of the link above (above meaning towards the watch body), and 1 arm fitting between the 2 arms of the next link down). Unlike described in the first solution, the pin is not split, but solid (doesn't look like a slotted screw on 1 end, so the solution at http://www.wikihow.com/Adjust-a-Casio-S-935L-Watch-Band is no help). Here's what to do if you have this band:

1. Note: before you start, be advised there is a tiny loose 1/8" part (sleeve) that will fall out as you pull the links apart, so work over an appropriate surface to "catch" it. Push pin (from the upper "arrow end) of one of the removeable links (those with the arrows on the backside) out of its hole with a fine poker (I used a 1/32" jeweler's screwdriver, an unbent paperclip would also work, just more likely to bend as you push pin out). This takes some force to do - in my case, after pushing, the pin projected out about 1/2 of it's length, I used needle-nosed pliers to gently pull it out the rest of the way). CAREFUL - once pin is removed and you pull the link away from the one above, a small (1/8") constriction sleeve should fall out of the center arm of the link above. SAVE THIS SLEEVE!

2. Using the same procedure, remove the pin from the bottom end of the link you're removing. again, SAVE THE SLEEVE.

3. to rejoin the band once the link is removed, look at the single/middle "arm" of the upper link, looking for the hole where the pin goes through. One side of the hole should be noticeably larger/wider than the other side - this is where you will place the SLEEVE - I used tweezers, or needle-nosed pliers will work - it will drop into hole. Keep this upright so that sleeve doesn't fall out, and slide the 2 arms of the lower link in place around the center arm.

4. Slide the pin you removed into one of the outer link arm holes - I found it easier if I started from below, pushing it into the center arm - it will stop when it reaches that 1/8" constriction sleeve. I set the extruded end on the pin on a magazine (i.e., slightly padded surface) and then pushed the top side of the band down, forcing the pin through the constriction sleeve and up into the upper arm hole, and Voila, your band is reconnected. The sleeve is important (without the sleeve in place, the pin will simply fall back out).

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