Gjc3034rs wiring diagram for back right infinite switch

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check foroverheated wires or faulty terminals first.Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.

1. If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons.(Locate the suspect switch for testing. Label all wires and terminals before disconnecting. A close up digital photo may be helpful.

1. On the burner control switch the terminal labeled "P" leads to the burner indicator light. The terminals labeled "H1" and "H2" lead to the burner element and the terminals labeled "L1" and "L2" (sometimes "N1" and "N2") are the power supply wires.

1. Set yourmultimeterto ohms setting x1. Turn the burner control to the highest temperature setting. Place one probe on pin "L1" and the second probe on pin "H1". The resistance measurement should be very low, zero to twenty ohms. If the test shows high or infinite resistance, the burner switch is defective.

1. Repeat the step above for the terminals "L2" and "H2".

1. If the control passes that test, turn the temperature setting to about the middle of the range and repeat the previous two steps. This will test for an intermittent problem with the switch. If the test does not show continuity with very low resistance, the switch should be replaced.

1. With the switch turned to the "Off" position, the resistance on each of the pairs of terminals tested above should now show no continuity or a reading of infinite resistance.

1. A test for continuity between "P" and "L1" when the burner control switch is on should show continuity. The light should be on whenever the control is turned on. If your test shows continuity, but the light does not operate, it is likely the bulb has failed.

If the burner switch shows high or infinite resistance, the switch is not passing along current to the burner and so the switch should be replaced. )

Most modern ovens usean electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.

This happens when one of the infinite switches short out. The indicator lamp will remain on even though none of the elements are heating up. To figure out which one is defective, gain access to the rear of the switches and remove the wire going to terminal P (Pilot) Restore power and see if the light is out now. Keep doing this to the remaining switches until you find the one where the light stays out with the wire removed after power is restored. Supply model number and we will supply the part number for the infinite switch. Be sure to let us know if it is the 6 or 8 inch burner switch. Good Luck and be careful. Eric

This is usually the infinite switch has failed. They are easy to check and inexpensive. Here is a video that will walk you thru testing an infinite switch. It may be a different model but the testing will be the same. You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations for your specific model. Not all models are available. All parts come with installation instructions.

This is usually the infinite switch has failed. They are easy to check and inexpensive. Here is a video that will walk you thru testing an infinite switch. It may be a different model but the testing will be the same. You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations for your specific model. Not all models are available. All parts come with installation instructions.

This is usually the infinite switch has failed. They are easy to check and inexpensive. Here is a video that will walk you thru testing an infinite switch. It may be a different model but the testing will be the same. You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations for your specific model. Not all models are available. All parts come with installation instructions.

This is usually the infinite switch has failed. They are easy to check and inexpensive. There is a video at www.appliancehelponline.com/servicemanual.html that will walk you thru testing this. It may be a different model but the testing will be the same. You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations for your specific model. Not all models are available. All parts come with installation instructions.

Hi Greg. Welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly. I have been looking into this for several hours now. Even service manual(s). The only thing I can find is the yellow wire goes from the infinite switch to the right side elements. I don't see a blow on your model so the wiring diagram should be on the bottom of the pan cover. The bad news is I can not tell if it is actually on the bottom or inside the bottom. From everything I can see it appears that the yellow wire would be attached to L1 vs where you currently have it connected i.e neutral. I can not come up with the wiring diagram that is part of your cooktop but all of the other Electric Maytag and Jenn-Aire models show the same thing. Yellow wire from the infinite switch and L1. Take a look at your wiring diagram if you can find it and see if you come up with the same conclusion.

This became one of those solve the mystery questions for me and I literally have been looking at it for about 3 hours now. trying to get something I can safely pass to you that will not damage your unit.

With the yellow wire on neutral currently it would be operating on 110V and have low heat. Placing the yellow wire on L1 (Left) should get 208V to the right side burners. Again.. take a look at the schematic / wiring diagram that is attached to your unit.

This is the best I can do from here. The users manuals I have found for your cooktop are in several languages. ENGLISH is not one of them :(

Kelly

I've got the switch but i had to take off the bad one and take it to the parts store to get the replacement. Stupid me forgot to snap a photo of how the wires plug back in! Did you get your fixed and which wires are L1/L2 and which are H1/H2?

Sure, I meant to get a copy of the schematic last night so that I could send it to you with the changes. I'll get it tonight and send it to you along with the info I have now. The only thing that will be different is that you won't have independent controls of the dual element burner. For me that was fine cause my wife and I never use just the smaller burner but rather always both. The part #1009577 from repair clinic.com is an infinite switch which is already being used in the cook top for the largest burner or if not (cause I actually didn't look) for sure it is used in the JEC9536, just the wider model. This part is rated from 8.9 - 11.0 amps or 2,640 watts, when you hook the two burners together I believe it adds up to 3,000 watts so the infinite switch (the biggest I could locate) is slightly under sized. However, I felt most things especially electrical, are over engineered for safety any ways. When you remove the circuit board you will have to drill out the two slots where the two mounting screws will secure the new switch, or you can do what I did and stick a screw driver in the slots and stretch them slightly (very easy to do). You'll need to find two screws that fit the new switch for mounting ( not too long, if your not sure take one off one of the other infinite switches and match it up). I'll have to get back with you on the wiring, it is rather simple though, most of the connections are the same as the other infinite switches. The grainger.com part number 2FBT6 is just a snap action thermal switch that will replace the thermal sensor that went to the circuit board to light up the hot surface indicator. I tried to use the existing sensor but the hot surface indicator lamp stays lit, so I figured that the sensor was probably a 0-10volt or 4-20mAmp switch that the circuit board monitored and turned on the hot surface indicator accordingly. That is a simple hook up also, however, I have not installed that yet cause I did not find out about the thermal sensor not working for the hot surface indicator until after I put in the infinite switch. Tonight I will install it and let you know what wires go where along with a marked up schematic, maybe even photos if you would like.

a to black one
b to red one
d to orange
e to grey
a-e to red two
a-d to black two
a-c to orange two
a-b to grey two
a-a to white