SOURCE: Freezer and fridge not cooling (halfway)
SxS Amana upper half of feezer and Refrigerator not working
SOURCE: Lower half of fridge side is freezing upper half is warm
The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper)
between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it.
Make sure this fan is running. You may have to hold the door switch in for it
to run. There is a flap you adjust with
the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust
the fridge temp.
The problem could be the electronic control if
you have one or the mechanical linkages.
OR
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back
wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10
hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic
adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to
melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from
overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches
close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost
cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to
build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air
through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge
is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from
coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped
to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be
misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when
cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the
heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs
replaced.
The defrost heater is
located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also
go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if
it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when
disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for
voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.
If
you have a defrost
timer you
can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the
front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts
down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that
means the timer is not running. If it
doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till
everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer,
replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge
with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
If you need help finding your model number see
here> http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx
To locate your timer, motherboard, control or adaptive
defrost control , enter your model number and search for the part or post back
on Fixya.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action?psid=26129238&sid=PSx20071217x00001a
SOURCE: Kenmore 106.536323000 S/S: Not Cooling Enough
YOU HAVE A DEFROST PROBLEM. FROST HAS BUILT UP SOMEWHERE AND THE FAN CAN'T BLOW PAST THE BLOCKAGE. OR ONLY A SMALL SECTION OF YOUR COILS IN THE FREEZER ARE COOLING DUE TO A CLOGGED FILTER OR BAD COMPRESSOR. PULL THE BACK COVER FROM INSIDE THE FREEZER AND LOOK AT THE COILS. THEY SHOULD HAVE A LIGHT FROST AVER THE ENTIRE COIL.IF IT IS A BIG BLOCK OF ICE YOU HAVE A DEFROST PROBLEM.
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