Bosch Dishwasher Circulator Pump Won't Stop

SOURCE: Diswasher Pump won't stop running

Introduction: This may work for your problem, but only if you're finding that you cannot get further water to flow into your machine. If your machine fills, OK, then this ISN'T a solution to your problem.

I have a Bosch SHV. My sink drain backed up, and the water accumulating in the sink then migrated to the dishwasher, through the drain pipe, causing the dishwasher to fill up and, it turned out, overflow a little. When I turned on the dishwasher, the water drained, but no new, clean water came through the hot water pipe. The drain just kept running, but nothing else happened.

Here's what happened. Under the main chamber of the dishwasher, by three inches or more, is a white plastic tray. It sits almost at the floor, and it may not be obvious that it's a tray capable of holding water. The overflow water spilled into that tray, which in turn caused a float in the far left side of the tray to lift (the way a toilet float lifts when the water fills in a toilet tank) and shut off the water intake valve (like the toilet float shuts off the toilet water flow). So long as that valve is closed, your machine will not run.

STOP: disconnect power supply at this point for safety.

To see the white plastic tray and thereby fix the problem, you'll need to take off the BLACK TOE-KICK (attached on my unit by two star-head screws at its bottom) and, possibly , the OUTER PANEL OF THE DISHWASHER DOOR (in my case, a custom wood panel (attached by a few screws through the inner side of the door, two screws that are accessed by popping off little--smaller than a dime size--covers on the sides of the doors, and then the door panel lifts up and out). (I took the outer panel off, but I can't remember if I would have had to reach into the white tray without doing so.)

Once you do that, you can see the white plastic tray. It doesn't come out--at least not without removing the entire machine--so try this. You can take your fingers and feel over and into the tray. You'll probably feel the water--I did. Look at the far left of the tray with a flashlight. Back there you'll see a flat, round, 3-inch diameter piece of white plastic sitting at the bottom of the tray. To its center is a generally U-shaped lever looking device, which, at its far left end, is connected to a red stick pointing up into the machine. When water goes into the tray, the float rises, causing the U-shaped lever to rise, causing the red stick to raise, which (though I couldn't see it) causes an electrical signal to run to, and shut, the valve for your water intake.

I took paper towels, and then a narrowly cut sponge, to sop up the water in the tray. I then took my shop vac and, using it as a blower, blew what little water was left right out. You might be able to use a hair dryer, but first sop out what you can or it'll take forever. Once you've done that, put everything back together and plug your dishwasher back in. My buttons are at the top panel. To reset, hold down the two buttons marked for clear drain for three seconds and release. You should be able to start up then. It took 15 seconds before the water started to run, but it did and the machine works fine again.

Interesting note: The valve that stopped the water from flowing in automatically opened once I got the water out of the tray. You don't need to reset the valve.

Good luck.

Montpelier Man

SOURCE: Bosch Logixx dishwasher gets stuck on either wash

you have a bad control module. send me a 4 thumbs post if this was helpful to you.p.s im a old bosch tech

SOURCE: I have a SHU43C05UC/22 Bosch Dishwasher. The

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

Based on your description I'd say the issue is with the control...unfortunately.

The number"1" being displayed ( on models with the display like yours ) is actually an error code indicating a fault in the heating process.

Bosch has had a history of this exact problem I'm about to lay out for you and this is the first thing I'd be looking for if called out to service the unit with the symptoms you've described.
**B/S/H/ also issued a recall on certain models between 1999 - 2006 depending on the serial number so you may want to contact Bosch to inquire if yours is affected.**

http://microsites.boschappliances.com/safetyrecall/dishwasher/

or
Bosch dishwasher hot-line 1-800-856-9226 1-800-856-9226
Before calling, have the model and serial numbers on hand. A live operator can be reached at the hot-line 24/hrs day.
Those not affected by the recall still can be a problem but easily fixed. As I've alluded to the issue is likely within the electronic timer/control, specifically the heater relay solder joint. ( a faulty flow switch, ntc or heater can also cause this, but not very probable ).

My first suggestion would be calling in an authorized bosch service tech. if that is an option for you and your budget however, If you feel capable of checking this on your own, there`s a way to visually inspect the control yourself.

It will require you to remove the control from the unit and then remove the control from it`s plastic housing and look for a burnt solder contact on the printed circuit board.




The culprit will 99% of the times be one of the pins from the heater relay,

**Your control WILL differ in appearance, however the issue, the service and all the same info applies...except the part number. Yours will be # 431692**




**Flip this over and inspect the solder joints, it will be obvious when you see it...the cover for your models control comes apart in a similar manner**

This is where and what to look for, except I`ve re-soldered this one already...




...hence the unit sit`s and takes longer & longer to finish because it can`t heat to advance or unless the 2 buttons for "cancel" are pressed, other-times it will eventually stop or display "1".


You can also run the unit through a regular or econo cycle ...any cycle with the exception of rinse & hold, and with the door panel removed place an ammeter on the gray/black wire it should draw 11 amps during the wash cycle...after it fills and the flow switch indicates it has adequate water to engage the heater.

i.e.


**My Opinion - if you or someone you know is proficient at soldering, a lot of times it can be remedied by simply repairing the solder...but it has to be done well...or it will not last, although Bosch recommend`s replacing the control ( # 431692 @ approx. $150 - $250USD...$167.99 at "searspartsdirect.com" ) and I don`t pretend to speak on their behalf nor do I profess to know better. This is just my experience (it work`s) and my opinion (why buy new if one can repair ?)**

**Please disconnect the power or turn off the breaker before attempting any service to the dishwasher.**


If you do not feel comfortable attempting this service, call a local pro, preferably one familiar with Bosch/Thermador/Gaggenau/Siemens, to service your machine.

Hope this answer`s your question, let me know if I can assist you further.

Thank`s for visiting "FixYa" for your repair inquiries. Please take a moment and rate this solution to it's helpfulness.

Good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

SOURCE: My SHU9915UC was probably installed

Hello,
This model new was around $1000 dollars. I would put a few bucks into to get it back up and running. The most common issue is the circulation pump. The pump freezes up and will often cause this issue.
Appliance & Refrigerator Repair

SOURCE: Bosch SHU4302c - The

Hi
Yes if NTC is okay and you have already checked it then the issue is with the control board that is bad and should be replaced. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel