Run ac off of generator.

Hmm, don't know how long it will last because the compressor is cooled by the returning refrigerant. But here goes. First make sure you have the correct cap. The compressor will give the voltage and farrods. The cap voltage can be higher just not lower. The farrods have to be correct. Next, common on both cap and compressor go to L1. Run on the compressor goes to L2. Herm on the cap goes to start on the compressor.
Good luck. Let me know if it overheats and cooks it self.

First, I'm not a Coleman Tech.
* First check the generator for a wire(s) output description. This will confirm what each wire is producing and where it should be connected to.
* The specs will also give you an idea of what to expect from a particular generator. (Don't expect 220Volts from a 120 Volt small generator.. Hence the 120 VAC generator will only have 3 wires instead of 4 wires for a 220-240 Volt generator. DC/AC generator will have 5-6 wires.)
* In general, on/off switch on the electrical part of the generator (the actual electric source) is on once the engine is up and running. Electricity is being produced at this time. The on/off switch is usually the main electrical breaker that is rated for the full output of the generator. This is very similar to your house breakers except for a modification of the hook up terminals used to wire in this safety component. Like most breakers there is an input(s) then output(s). Usually the input lines will be black, white, with an additional green wire that is also connected to the frame of the generator. These three wires will hook up to one side of the breaker or the "Line In" side or "L1,L2" The other side of the breaker should have been hooked up directly to the 1 or 2 duplex (120VAC) outlet panel.
* on larger generators that produce 120/240 VAC 1PH (two 120 volt AC outputs with alternative 220-240 volt AC) There will be an additional wire that may be the same or different color IE; 2 Blacks, Reds, or Blues. This is hooked up in similar fashion to the breaker except there will be an additional section to the breaker or even two single breakers stuck together with a bar across both switches. (again similar to a 220 VAC breaker used in a house panel.) The extra wire will go to the 2nd section of the breaker. The other side or "output" of the breaker will be wired directly to a set of Duplex outlets (a pair or 4 outlets) AND a 4 pronged 120/240 1PH outlet "Twist Lock" style. (though you may find specialized outlets for single purpose generators.)
* Larger generators may also have a DC (12 or 24 VDC) wire which is of a different color from the AC wires. Expect it to be Black, Red, or White. (Black or white is probably the negative with the Red as positive.) If you do have DC wires then it's more than likely the AC wires are of different colors to avoid getting the DC mixed up with the AC side.
* Final; check your warranty. Have your vendor or MFR perform a service and annual maintenance check which is a good idea as they can change out your air and fuel filters. Check and clean the spark plug. Make sure everything is working properly. The peace of mind is worth it.
Aloha, ukeboy57

The four wire 220 twist lock receptacle Two hot wires, one neutral, and a safety ground. Depending on your generators setup the neutral and ground are bonded as one; unless, it setup for a floating neutral.
You would normally connect the two hots and neutral. and leave the ground open on the four prong twist lock plug. Just make sure the compressor is earth grounded on its end.

Check all wiring and fuses associated with you voltage regulator if they check ok, find a way to adjust your voltage regulator replace it. Make sure the unit is running at 3600 rpm as well and making 60 hz.

Your generator is a welder?? Yikes, the 220 volts coming out of the genny is not the same as the 220 volts running a welder, it is, but it isn't, the 220 volts used to run the welder are transformed into DC, in the 50 -150 amp range, the 220 volts coming out of your genny is 220 volts, AC, at 30-40-50 amps. Now exactly how were you welding with 220 volts AC? Remove anything plugged into the genny, check the oil, check the gas, make sure it is fresh, check the breakers, check the fuses, get it running, now don't try to weld with it again. Unless you have a big welder to plug into it and I wouldn't even do that because of the generator spikes. I might be wrong, but I have never seen a genny with a welder on it for home use.

most generators have a 220 volt plug on them from the factory, if it is a small one it might not have the capabilities of 220. If it has the 220 plug then you will just need to wire the proper 220 male end onto whatever you are trying to run.

check your comm board you need to make sure both are set to the same settings

5600 watts will not operate off 120 volts.
This is a 220/240 volt hookup.
There are 2 legs of 120 volts each that operate the dryer.
The only part requiring 220v is the heater.
Otherwise 120v routes through the various controls and relays.

Hey steve. do you really need 240 volts for 120 v. circuits. the reason you have to have an adaptor plug is because on your 220 volt plug in , 2 of tthose prongs are hot and 1 is ground. for safety you need to get a plug adapter ( a regular 120 volt plug end ) run a ground from adapter to ground on 220 adapter. same with nuetral. you also need to ground your generator. there is usaully a ground lug on the bottom of the gen. Another way. if you dont really need 220 v. is to use both 120v. recepticals on gen. Run 2 chords to tranf. switch. and hard wire it in to switch. another way i did mine . when i lost power in this hurricane. i ran two # 10 chords from my 2 120v. recept on my gen to my breaker panel. when you do this you have to pull the service meter, if you dont when power comes back on it would backfeed through your gen.then i turn all my 220v. breakers i was able to run lights ,ciling fans, freezer, ice box,washing machine and gas dryer , tv's computors etc. . but to do this, you probably need someone that knows what they are doin.

If there is no 220 outlet in the location where you're planning to put the stove then you need to run wiring to the new location. There are two seperate phases of 110 volts coming to your home. The voltage between each of these phases and the neutral wire is 110 volts. When your house was wired only 1 of the 110 volt signals was run to your 110 volt outlets. In order to create a 220 volt outlet you need both of the 110 volt signals run to the outlet.

If you have a straight shot between your breaker box and the location where you need the 220 volt outlet then this is not too big a deal. If you have finished ceilings and walls inbetween then this will be much more difficult.

If you're not comfortable with electrical wiring this would be a good time to call a licensed electrician.