Question about Singer Sewing Machines
I just want to sew a straight stitch and have no manual to adjust the correct button/slide bar with-out waisting time and thread. the model number says it's model 625, but cant find any listings that ever list "model 625. Thats why i included the serial #,to see if any listing came up. None did,still.
Please TRY the solution BEFORE giving your considered rating.
Ensure that all is clean and free of lint and jams, this is the most likely cause....now for tension troubleshooting .......
This solution is for tension problems...if you cannot form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me know if you need a different problem solved.....
It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.
The "knotting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.
QUICK SUMMARY FIRST:
Ensure sharp new needle,
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tesion to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.
TOP THREAD TENSION:
If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your
IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ?
If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !
TOP TENSION & GUIDES:
Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and not to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.
It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.
If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.
Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with
a see saw / to and fro action.
In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to
disengage tension plates).... do not gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.
Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension.
I would not recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small screws and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean
the hook race area (where bobbin case sits)
...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....
just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.
Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (not soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.
If it seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need .....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is no lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned.
Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension screw in the middle of the metalwork....
...the other screw at one end is holding it all together, so beware....it is not a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !
....this is a bobbin case from a front loading machine and works in a very similar fashion to the top loader with drop in bobbin, again, if you dismantle it, take care so you can put it all
GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT:
When you are certain there's no trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.
Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes.
Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension screw very little at
a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.
You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it cannot be correct to do this.....BUT....it is,
and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)
If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine
case....no case ? then make some sort of cover !
Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.
Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with
dust and form a "clag" like glue (another reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)
FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD:
If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, .......it may seem to cost a little more at the
time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistent diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks !
Posted on Jul 24, 2008
SOURCE: Singer 5050
I was hoping you would have got another answer, I have a mechanical sewing machine ( Singer 5040) with the exact same problem. However, if i use the programed stitches I can sew a zigzag. If i do it manually and set the zigzag width to any width ( even the widest) I get only the same straight stitch, and no mater what length I select it is the same too, very close to gether about 1 1/2 inch stitch.
I took my entire maching apart to expose inside both top side and underneath, nothing apeared loose or broke and i oiled it up. I bought a new bobbin holder and still the same effect. So it has to be something serious is my conclusion...sounds like a trip to Sears to me...LOL
Posted on Oct 17, 2008
SOURCE: FEW STITCHES DROP IN BOBBIN
Dropped stitches troubleshooting:
1>change to a new proper needle (proper needle means quilting needles for free motion, stretch needle for knits, leather needle for leather, microtex needle for micro fabrics.....etc.) of proper size. Most sewers never need a needle smaller then an 80/12 when sewing. Smaller needles bend more easily causing more problems.
2>If a new needle doesn’t fix the problem, remove parts from bobbin case area (as best as easily allowable) and clean out all the lint thoroughly, and oil with 2-3 drops of oil where friction occurs (turn hand wheel and look for rubbing)
3>If still skipping, try a different spool of thread (Yes, thread can caused skipped stitches, not common but I see it).
4>If you haven’t solved it yet, sounds like you could need to make a lower level adjustment like hook timing.
To time the machine, you want the tip of the hook to pass just over the top of the eye of the needle when the needle is in the left most or right most position depending on which side the eye of the needle will be higher
Posted on Mar 21, 2009
I had a similar problem a couple of years ago. I finally figured out that I had the straight stitch needle plate (the one with the single hole), rather than the zig zag needle plate (the one with the curved hole). When I changed plates, it worked fine.
Posted on May 27, 2009
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