1993 Chrysler Concorde Logo

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Posted on Sep 26, 2008
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Engine Quits My concorde runs good, for 10 minutes, then it shuts down, completely. No prior warning, no hesitation, sputter, coughing or anything. It just shuts down. It will not start again for about 15 minutes. Then it will restart, no problem starting then, easy to restart, runs good, then after about 10 minutes it shuts down again.

  • thebrandonab Jan 07, 2009

    I will be driving down the road then it just shuts off fires back up and does it again a few minutes later

  • Anonymous Jan 25, 2009

    Cranks shaft position sensor or have your motor mounts checked. (4 Motor mount costs about $500) [email protected]

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  • Posted on Jan 07, 2009
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Joined: Dec 19, 2008
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Sounds like a tipical crankshaft position sensor will fix your car

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0helpful
3answers

Vehicle starts runs for 1-2 minutes then quits, Starts right up. Fuel is being shut down.

Also what no one is mentioning is to make sure you have oil pressure, or that the oil pressure sensor is working, alot of newer vehicles run the fuel pumps off of them oil pressure sensor so if your vehicle stops pumping oil and lubricating, it shuts the fuel pump off to protect itself from damage or further damage
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Engine keeps running after key is off

Could be what is called "dieseling" where it sounds like a diesel truck.
Possible causes are a heavy carbon buildup in the cylinders, or the idle speed could be too high.
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1989 Celica GT Convertible Replaced ecu, ignitor, distributor assy, wires, and plugs. Runs great, but intermittently will shut off (no spark) at a light when in drive (cranks, won't start). Battery is...

something is heating up it could be the ignition relay or a bad ignition switch. relay can over heat and stop working this would take some time to cool down again, ignition can do the same some times you can feel the heat on the key when removed.
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After running the engine for awhile in stop and go traffic it runs hot and start to sputter and cough and quits running. hard to crank till it cools down

CHECK COOLANT LEVEL.CHECK THERMOSTAT.IF TOP RADIATOR HOSE DONT GET HOT IN 10 MINUTES AFTER FIRST STARTING CAR IN MORNING .AND JUST THE BOTTOM HOSE.THERMOSTAT STICKING CLOSE.IF THERMOSTAT FINE.PROBLEM COULD BE CLOGGED RADIATOR OR ENGINE BLOCK CLOGGED OR FAULTY WATER PUMP.
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See description to the left

Ford 1989 F 150
Is this 4.9 L (6) cyl. ?
Truck runs until hot then quits. Cools down then runs again.

You can get error codes. Many auto parts stores will have free loaner meters to read them.

It could be the hall effect sensor in the distributor. You need to test for injector pulse and if you don't have a pulse, the hall effect sensor will be suspect. This sensor checks for crankshaft position in earlier models instead of a cranks position sensor. The TFI module plugs in near it.
Use a noid light for Ford plugged into an injector and crank the engine to see if it lights.


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0helpful
1answer

My 2001 Chrysler Concorde bogs down and sputters at 2800 rpm and above. The check engine light will come on just prior to this happening. This problem pops up every few days, continues for a day or two and...

try by starting off with getting a computer scan for diagnostic trouble codes.ther should at least be a history code stored. it sounds like maybe a cam sensor problem , but the scan should shed more light on the course of repair.
good luck chris
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