For replacing water pump , you also have to remove, accessory belt,timing belt,timing belt cover and other minor components. Removing water pump is not very difficult, but removal of this other components is necessary, then only you can replace water pump. For detailed procedure, click the link below:--- http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/10/water-pump-removal-instructions-for.html -------- This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.
SOURCE: 2002 ford taurus wtaer pump
Removal & Installation
3.0L (2V)
To Remove:
To Install:
Water pump bolt torque sequence (3.0L (2V) engine)
Ebay has the tool for removal cost $1 plus shipping. this tool is for the 2 holes on left and right side of radio face fit tool in then push alittle out worad and pull. Follow aftermarket instructon on install.
SOURCE: How do I change the water pump on a 97 Ford Taurus V-6
detach the cable from the negative terminal of the battery then loosen the 4 water pump pulley bolts be sure to do this before removing the drive belt then remove the drive belt, alternator, and remove accessory drive belts and idler assembly bolts loosen the hose clamp and detach the heater hose from the water pump and then remove bolts from water pump they around $36.00 at NAPA
SOURCE: I need to replace the starter solenoid on a 2003
The starter solenoid is attached to the starter unlike the older Fords. You will have to remove the splash guard to gain access to the starter. It is located on the front side of the motor.
SOURCE: need to replace thermostat 2000 taurus
If it's the 3.0L Vulcan Engine (OHV), the thermostat is on the driver's side of the vehicle. Follow the upper radiator hose back to a metal area with three 10mm bolts. This is the thermostat housing. Undo the bolts, and there's the thermostat. Mark the back of it with the old thermostat in it (if you get one with a jiggle valve, it'll make it easier to put the new one in because the jiggle valve needs to be on top). The thermostat and housing aren't perfectly round, so you'll have to play with it a little to get it to line up. Make sure to change the gasket. The spring side of the thermostat goes into the engine.
The water pump is in the serpentine assembly. It's the larger pulley located toward the firewall. It'll be easiest to remove the water pump if you also remove the coolant recovery tank. The water pump pulley has four 1/2" bolts that you need to take out WITH THE BELT STILL ATTACHED. I can't stress this enough. The belt will keep the pulley in place so that you can remove the bolts. Take the pulley off, then the belt. Remove the heater hose at the top and the radiator hose at the bottom. There are 12 bolts of two diameters (1/2" and 10mm if I'm not mistaken). Tap the heater hose lightly with a soft-faced mallet to break the seal with the gasket. Trash the old gasket. Replace gasket (you can also line the mating surface of the water pump with RTV Sealant, put the new gasket on the new pump, and line the other side of gasket with a second coat of RTV sealant if you want a really good seal). Install the water pump and torque to manufacturer's specs. Attach the pulley to the water pump hand tight and put the belt back on. Tighten the pulley bolts. Put the coolant recovery tank back in place. Fill with coolant, start engine, bleed and check for leaks.
To bleed cooling system: Idle the engine until the thermostat opens (you'll be able to tell bacause the upper radiator hose will be uber hot and you'll feel coolant running through this hose). Squeeze all hoses in the system that you can reach, but don't burn yourself. Stop the engine and let it cool. Open the radiator cap and squeeze the COLD upper radiator hose. You'll see some bubbles in your recovery tank. You might have to monitor your coolant level for a couple of days while the final bits of air are purged through your radiator cap (that's why it's pressurized).
Hope this helps. It's not hard, but it took me quite awhile.
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