Oven lights,comes to temp and shuts off but will not relight.
Hi. This is quite common with gas ranges of this nature. I will list the most common culprits below:
1. Gas valve coil assembly malfunction(Most likely culprit)
2. Ignition Faults(damaged ignitor)
3. Oven temperature sensor faults(unable to read oven temp)
4. Main logic board or PCB damage(Control board issues)
I would advise to unplug the unit for five minutes. This will induce a hard reset that will reset the main board. Once this is done, plug or reintroduce power to the unit and try to preform a normal baking session. observe the ovens actions. If the faults persist, Start your troubleshooting by checking the sensor(oven temp sensor) for faults. Make sure that the contacts are connected properly, and not loose, or corroded. If all the wiring checks out, test the sensor for the correct resistance readings.(you will need a multimeter for this test).
The most common oven sensors should be approximately 1100 ohms at room temperature. Other temperatures are as follows:
100F - 1143 ohms
200F - 1350 ohms
300F - 1553 ohms
(You will essentially want to test it at room temp)
The sensor is, generally, located inside the oven, mounted on the back wall, on the top right, or left corner. There will be two screws holding the housing on the back of the oven wall. Once the screws are removed, the sensor will need to be extracted from the back side of the unit.
If the sensor checks out ok and the wiring is connected without any faults, move on to the other areas of concern. I will list the other procedures below.
The easiest way to check the ignitor is to observe it. Remove the small access panel in front or in the rear, select a high temperature setting and start the unit. Watch the burner assembly, shortly after starting the unit. the ignitor should begin to glow or spark. If you see it glow or spark, then the ignitor is working. If the ignitor did not appear to function and it is the spark type, it may be out of adjustment which generally requires professional service or it may require replacement. If the ignitor is the glow type, you can test it for resistance with a multimeter.
The gas valve coils will be a more extensive procedure. Let me know if the ignitor and sensor passes there respective test. I will monitor this thread for further discussion as needed.
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The problem is usually the igniter not reaching the correct amp draw .When the igniter does not reach the correct amp draw it may allow the gas valve to partially open or not open at all. The igniters are inexpensive and easy to replace. This video will walk you thru the correct procedure for testing an oven igniter. It may be a different model but the testing will be the same.You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations of your specific model. Not all models are available. All parts come with installation instructions.
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