My 1987 Camry Alt Fuse Keeps Blowing. Brand New Alternator Brand New Battery . As Soon As I Change The 80 amp Fusible Link And Reconnect The Battery It Blows Immediately

buy a $15 voltmeter and end throwing parts an going broke.

while jump started it runs, (you forgot that key fa
and running after the ALT swap the charge battery lamp glows.
and that means ALT changedwith battery neg lug not pulled
that means the 100amp ALT fuse was blown out doing that wrong.
jumper start it again see that lamp glow?
then battery voltage is 11 to 15vdc, below means fuse is blown./
mean ALT is dead or 3 fuse too it blown.
the huge fuse can be a Fusible link type, ignored by noobs
9 of 10 says good and forgot the Huge ones./ or fusible link.


see the black code (buick code) fusible link hear
voltage must be same both sides of it, engine running
or it is blown,
step 1, new alternator put in ,is NEG lug off first or BOOM./
black code. 105 amp ALT, so fuse must be more. (a tad)
raw links are 9" long max
the diodes in ALT seen blow 3 phase can short and you never want a harness fire in any car, (near fuel) ever.
so it must be fused. as it was.
what I do is upgrade to real fuses and small ;block to hold it.
120amp fuse. called maxi fuse.
I'd go FL12 links here the insulation is very special on them


http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/fusible-link.shtml

https://www.whiteproducts.com/fusible-specs.shtml

If you are running an big 130 or 140 amp alternator, 6 guage would make sense for the charge wire #1 with a 10 guage fusible link to protect it.
yes hard to find them,, so upgrade to maxifuse is best.

May your Batterie changed the polarisation from plus to minus. Let the Batetrie complet dry and charge the Batterie
again. Check the Alternator load and expect that the Diodes are also blown.

Hubby says check your ground system double
Ground the alt both engine and battery and see if that helps good luck.

the alt is what keeps the battery charged. the only way to fix it is to have it rebuilt or get a new one.

Not sure on your specific model, but they are usually either in wires near the battery + or near the starter big fat wire. You can identify them by close inspection of the wires to see a spot in the wire that looks as if something is spliced in. A small needle can be inserted into the wire on either side of the link to test for current passing through. When you find the bad one, making a good splice and soldering the new link in is best practice, using shrink wrap to insulate.

Check the fusible link between the alternator and battery. It's looks like a wire but is actually a fuse.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/kim_3202917d7c587455

Hello! Identify which fuse is blowing...also, does it blow as soon as it is installed or does it blow when you turn the key? Lastly your not referring to a fusible link but a maxi-fuse...ie...40; Correct?

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two possibilities that immediately come to my mind from past experience:

(1) check that 2-connector plug on the side of the alternator! if that is disconnected, or not connected tightly, the alternator will not work until the engine is revved up to about 3000. once the engine hits 3000 RPMs the alternator energizes itself and begins to charge.

(2) check the fusible links. they're in a small compartment next to the battery. I remember something about this happening to mine and it was a fusible link. there are 4 of them, the main one says "ALT NAT/BATTERY" and the next one says "IGN SW"... check those two. I'm willing to bet it's that fusible link. I remember that the car started ok but nothing else electric worked. furthermore, with that fusible link broken, the charge indicator (battery) light came on very dim when the ignition switch was off. did you accidentally short something when you did the alternator? I bet this is what's causing that.

The wiring burning up at the altenator most likely caused the diode inside the altenator to short out. I would just replace the altenator now.

Something is drawing too much power and you will have to find out which it is. When the head job was done they may have gotten a wire pinched in the block or some thing. You would have to be quite mknowledgable in vehicle electronics to find it. I would suggest that you take it back to the shop or guy that done the head job for you to correct.