SOURCE: JennAir #JCD2389GES not cooling refrig at all.
I believe I solved my own problem. First, I defrosted the coils on the freezer side. This is done by turning off power to the refrigerator and using a hair drier to defronst. This takes about 20 minutes. To open the panels, unscrew the top two hex head screws just slightly. Then unscrew the next lower two hex head screws all the way and remove two panels revealing the frosted coils and the fan. It is easy to unscrew these using a screwdriver-type wrench. As the defrosting takes only a short time, I did not have to throw away any food. We have this same refrigerator in two houses, main house and vacation house, and I have used this method a couple of times on each refrigerator. The problem arises when, in warm weather, someone leaves the door open. One time it happened because a cardboard case of 12 oz sodas was preventing the door from shutting all the way. For that particular box, which is used in CocaCola products, you have to put the back of the box over the top of the shelf ridge; otherwise the box protrudes a bit too much in the front.
The above method did not work completely the last time I tried it. There was a warm spot in the middle of the rifrigerator side while the freezer side worked okay. To fix this new problem, after checking all coolness settings, I removed the assembly in the top of the refrigerator side--the control temperature control unit. The temperature control assmembly is mechanical and consists of just two levers that control the flow of air from a vent in the upper left corner of the refrigerator side. (My unit has the freezer on the right hand side.) The levers (for refrigerator temperature and freezer temperature) just open and close the vent. Another vent on the left middle of the refrigerator side controls flow to the middle. I had already opened this. When I loosened the temperature control assembly (four hex-head screws and two Phillips-head screws), I discovered that a piece of styrofoam had lodged in the air passageway between the freezer section and the refrigerator section. I removed this.
Unfortunately, I inadvertently broke off a plastic tab holding the canopy that covers the temperature control assembly. This caused me to do a lot of swearing. Nevertheless, I overcame the problem by purchasing a small shelf support that screws into the rear panel of the refrigerator. These are available on-line or from an appliance store. To avoid breaking off the tab, gently pull the canopy forward to allow the tabs on each (rear) side to be disengaged through two rectangular holes in the canopy. Gently work the tabs through these two holes.
After working on the canopy for awhile, I was afraid that the freezer coils may have gathered some ice. If so, I would have to re-defrost these. All was okay though.
One more thing: be sure that there is room for air to flow near the top shelf of the refrigerator. Stacking up too many things on that shelf deflects the airflow. When trying to get the refrigerator side working correctly, I removed everything from this top shelf. Cooling was perfect, so I added a few items to the top shelf, and everything continued to work just right.
Yet another thing: I figured out that the noise I had noticed came from the filter bottle that had outlived its usefulness. Rather than buy another filter bottle, I just ordered two dummy filters. I have given up on the actual filters because they cost $50 apiece and last for about four months. I can't taste the difference either in Los Gatos California, or Tahoe City, California. Of course, I had thrown away the dummy filters for my two refrigerators, but I was glad to see that these can be ordered on-line.
SOURCE: JennAir #JCD2389GES not cooling refrig at all.
Well guess what. Jenn Air / Maytag now has this issue as a recall. So just call them and tell them the fridge is not cooling. They will schedule a recall service appointment. Do be sure they schedule it as a "recall" service appointment or you will be charged.
That sure beats pulling out the hair dryer every time it happens!
Service number is 1-800-462-9824
Good luck
SOURCE: JennAir JFC2087HRS Freezer works but the top doesn't
Side by side have two compressors which are sometimes seperately controlled. The defrost timer is normally a part of a printed circuit board and not a serviceable item. The defrost bi-metal thermostat would be found on the freezer side behind a cover panel and is attached directly in contact with the evaporator (the thing with fins like a radiator) tubing. The function is to prevent the freezer going into defrost mode until the coil tubing is below -5 degrees celcius.
SOURCE: freezer works but refrig has 60 degree temp .evap coil is caked
Hi: Did you check the defrost heater itself? I checked Jennair and Sears parts to no avail. If you didn't check the heater it will be at the bottom of the freezer behind where you removed the back cover. A glass tube with a coil in it. If the coil or tube is broken replace that insead. I hope I helped, Jeff I found a website with the defrost timer, but not the location of the timer on the fridge. http://www.appliancepartsworldwide.com/store_SearchResults.aspx?S=1131392&ST=PBM
SOURCE: jennair french door fridge: freezer too cold,
i'll try to help w/out a model number but here it goes. more then likely your ice-mkr has stopped.right? if so turn ice-mkr off and it should help w/your freezing problem in the freshfood side.now find out why your ice-mkr is not making ice. things to look for are
1.no water hook up or water turned off under the kitchen sink.
2. a cube stuck in the ice-mkr's ejecting teeth.
3. a defective ice-mkr. vist www.searspartsdirect.com and input your model #,then choose ice-mkr to buy it. good luck
Kenmore uses a model number like this example=> 321.1234567 and can be found around the fresh food section door frame. I need that model number to see what parts may be causing the refrigerator to be too cold. Let me know and I will do my best to help solve this, Thanks Sea Breeze
1 Turn power off to refrigerator.
2 Open the fresh food sections door and remove all items on top shelf.
3 Adjust the fresh food control to its coldest position.
4 Remove the light shield by pulling down on the back corners of the cover
and then slide the cover forward.
5 Remove the edge sealing device, radiant shield supporting screws at the
back bottom center of the control housing mounting screw at back, bottom center
of the control housing. Slide the control housing to the right and lower the
housing.
6 Disconnect the temperature control housing from electric quick disconnect.
7 Remove the temperature control housing from the refrigerator and then
place on a
flat work surface.
8 Remove the auto damper control rod retainer, control rod and the slide
control
gear from the auto damper control.
9 Now turn the control housing over.
10 Remove the two auto damper mounting screws, then remove the auto damper
from the control housing.
11 Mark the auto damper rod about 1/4 in. from and away from the housing.
12 Uncoil the auto damper capillary tube at about 4 in.'s
13 Submerge into a glass of ice (not water). then watch for door to move to
the closed
position.
14 Remove from ice and warm capillary tube with your hand. Then watch door
for an opposite reaction.
15 If no movement is detected, replace the control. 61005971
Damper Control Assembly
The above is only a demostration of how to test a refrigerator with an auto that uses a capillary tube to open and close the damper. Your refrigerator will need to be identified by the correct model number to let you know what type of auto damper your model has, Post your model number and I will tell you what you will need to test yours, Thanks Sea Breeze
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I have found the areas to fix the problem so so need, but thanks for looking at my problem.
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