Roper Microwave (mhe14xmq dec. 2003) trips breaker...

In general house hold circuit breaker of the house is 15 Amps or 20 Amps.

Either you have defected (weak) circuit breaker and wiring or bad Microwave oven.

The 99.99 % house hold Microwave ovens pull less than 15 Amps. They may have internal ceramic 15A fuse or 15 Amp internal circuit breaker.

To isolate your problem:

1. Plug your Microwave oven to different areas (different electrical circuit) if the different circuit breaker still trips... your Microwave oven has a short - Most of them has a small ceramic fuse 15 amps fuse.-also check some inter lock switches at door .

2. If the Microwave oven works Ok then you may have:

2a. You may overload the existing electrical circuit, try to unplug some other appliances

2b. You may have bad electrical outlet receptacle (Replace it with the same type , - may need helps from licensed electrician)

2c. Weak or defect house hold circuit breaker. (Replace it with the same type , brand - may need helps from licensed electrician)

your micro has a short could be a couple things get someone to look at it dont cause a fire

It can be related to short in the main capacitor , short in the transformer or the surge capacitor. Also it can be due to short in the Magnetron or even the fault in the board.
You can isolate the short by disconnecting these one by one till the circuit holds which will confirm the case.

Answered earlier, another tips is to disconnect the power to the board and see if the circuit breaker holds, if not check the main line circuit.

I would check out your breaker at your box . See what amps it is rated and see what your microwave is . Also your micro wave should only be on 1 breaker with nothing else on it

I have a hard time believing that the home's main breaker is tripping instead of the branch circuit breaker that feeds the microwave. I suspect it is really just a difference in terms. You should disconnect it and try using in another outlet - preferably one on a different circuit if possible. If the breaker continues to trip; this appliance should be disconnected and either be discarded, repaired or replaced before using again.

If the microwave works as expected (on a different circuit), it may indicate the original circuit is overloaded. Microwave overs are supposed to be installed on a dedicated circuit. This means only one outlet is on the circuit - no other loads (lights, appliances, etc.) are permitted on this circuit. A microwave typically requires 10 Amps or more when on "high" and will require a significant portion of the power supplied by a 15 or 20 amp circuit breaker. There is little unused to power much of anything else. If other appliances go out when the microwave trips the circuit breaker, you should contact an electrician to have a dedicated outlet installed for the microwave.

I hope this helps!

The circuit is probably a 20Amp circuit (see the number stamped on the circuit breaker switch). Most likely, it is the same circuit as the refrigerator, crock pot, window A/C unit, etc....

Also, if you are using an extension cord or a power strip or a surge protector. Those may not have a high enough power rating.

One other possibility (not likely) is that the circuit breaker is a 15Amp and the microwave is 1500 watts.

What else is cut off when the circuit breaker is tripped?

Solution is to use a different outlet for the microwave, or turn off any other applicance in the same circuit (except the refrigerator, of course).

Hope this helps!

there is an overload fuse inside the unit.

Two possible causes.

First (and most likely) the circuit is being overloaded. This kitchen circuit may be shared with another appliance (like the refrigerator) which is drawing enough power when both are running to trip the breaker. A Typical kitchen circuit is 20 amp with #12 wiring. So an 1800 watt microwave might draw 13 or 14 amps while a fridge compressor kicking in can surpass 7 amps before it levels off. If this is an older home the kitchen may have a 15 amp circuit with #14 wiring. If the circuit is a 20 amp you will have to split the appliances onto separate circuits. (Under code a kitchen must have a minimum of 2 separate appliance circuits). If it is a 15 amp you might be able to split them as well or may be looking up upgrading the breaker and the wiring from 15amp #14 to 20 amp #12 (but you could still have the same problem).

The other possibility is a short or loose connection. If splitting appliances onto their own circuits doesn't fix this you would probably want an electrician to come in and check for other underlying causes which could represent a fire hazard.

Hope this helps.

The most common suspects are the high voltage transformer and the magnetron. It's also possible you have a flaky door switch or loose door switch mount. If you or a friend decide to work on it, we have *critical* safety, disassembly, and troubleshooting info (as well as a text file which helps in diagnosing and repairing door switch problems) at our site, which is linked at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383