HI. This will essentially be the result of a failed compressor start relay, or the compressor itself may be damaged, as well. I will lay out a procedure that will help diagnosis the situation. Please reply with the correct model number and brand for accurate part numbers, if possible.
Procedure:
THE RELAY
The compressor relay starts the compressor. A fault relay can result in the compressor failing to cycle on. The relay is accessed from the lower rear of the refrigerator. The compressor relay can be accessed by removing the terminal cover box. The cover is held on by tension or with a retaining clip. On soem units. the relat may not be covered at all.(each modle may vary). Benethe the terminal cover(if equipped), you will find the compressor relay, and the overload protector as well. The electrical terminals of the commpressor motor are loctaed here also. Remove the compressor relay by pulling it straight off from the compressor, gently. Pull the wire off of the side terminal of the relay. It is connected with a slip on connector. Firmly pull the connector, do not pull on the wire. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers. Inspect the connector and terminal for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced. There are two types of relays you may encounter, wire coil and solid state. If the relay has an exposed wound wire coil it can be tested for continuity. Otherwise, the relay is of solid state design and requires specialized equipment for testing. Test the relay with a ohm(multimeter), for continuity. Set the meter to the ohms setting X1. With the relay upside down, place the probes into the terminals labeled "S" and "M"(the labeling may vary on each modle). The meter should display a reading of zero ohms, indicating continuity (or if using a continuity tester, it should light up). With the probes still in place, turn the relay over. You should hear the click of the magnetic switch engaging. The meter should now display an ohm reading of infinity (or the tester should not light up). Turn the relay upside down again, place the probe on the "S" terminal and place it on the side terminal labeled "L". The meter should now display a reading of zero ohms (continuity). Turn the relay over and the reading should change to infinity. With the relay upside down place one probe on the "L" terminal and the other probe on terminal labeled "M". The meter should display a reading of zero ohms. Turn the relay over and the reading will stay the same, zero ohms. Now, if the relay fails these described tests, it shohdl be replaced asap.
COMPRESSOR TEST PROCEDURE
The compressor is accessed from the lower rear of the refrigerator. Generally the same proxsimity of the realy. The compressor motor can be accessed by removing the terminal cover box. The cover is held on by tension or with a retaining clip. The main testing points will be the actual terminal post that hold the relay, gently pull the relay of the terminal box on the side of the compressor, and use the relay holding probes for testing. Once the relay is removed, Place one probe on any terminal and then touch the other probe to each of the other two terminals. The multimeter should display a reading of zero ohms. Be sure to set your meter to 1X before begining. Now move the first probe to a different terminal and test the other two terminals with the other probe. Finally, move the first probe to the last terminal and test each of the other terminals with the other probe. Every test should have continuity with the multitester displaying zero ohms. If the compressor motor does not pass all of these tests, the compressor will require professional service. Now test the compressor for ground. With the multimeter still set to X1, touch one probe to bare metal on the compressor housing (it may be necessary to scratch away a little paint to expose the metal). Touch the other probe to each of the three terminals in turn. None of the terminals should have continuity; the multitester should display a reading of infinity. If any of the grounding tests show continuity, the compressor will require professional service.
Thank you. I will return shortly.with much needed information concerning the repair... One moment please..
Are there any unusual noises that can be heard near the lower rear sector of this unit during operation? Pinging or rattling, by any chance, or is the compressor silent, with no running intervals at all?
There are two possible culprits here, due to the fact that, your condense and evap fans are functional. The first will be the actual MICOMP relay, which is mounted on the PCB, itself. The second and most likely culprit will be the actual start/overload relay switch that is mounted on the left side of the compressor. Both issues are very extensive and will require technical knowledge to repair. This is electrical damage(shorted relay or cold solder break at the main PCB. If you will list your e mail, i would be happy to provide pictures.
NOTE: In some cases, the compressor can overheat, due to dirty condenser coil build up(film). This is common if the coils are not cleaned properly and regularly. This will cause the overload to kick in, thus, stopping the units compressor before damage occurs. In this special case, i would advise to shut down the unit and unplug the AC outlet cord for 5 minutes. This will reset the main control board and the relays that control compressor functions. If the same actions occur after this manual hard reset, then the culprits will be as stated above.
Ok, great job on the testing. Your solid state relay will need to be replaced in thisl case. I dont sense any issues with your pcb at this time. unfortunately, you cannot test the solid state relay with the ohm meter. It can be tested at your local parts store perhaps. With that said , I would recommend replacing the ss relay switch mounted on the compressor at this time
Yes, it should be a combined assembly, although, some are separated in many cases.
Ther was pinging and rattling noise from compressor area on start up.
MY e mail is [email protected]
I would like to replace PCB at same time as Relay.Where is it located on frig and what do i order?
the running voltage can be checked by measuring the micom no 18 on the actual main control board(pcb). It should measure out to five volts. If not, then the micom and pcb will need to be replaced. Now, if the voltage is correct, move on to the actual IC03 pin No. 14. This is located on the pcb main board, as well. The voltage here should be between 0-1v. If not, then exchange and repair the IC03 pin(ULN2803).
If all is well in the areas above, move on to the compressor relay. Since it is solid state, you will only be able to check the contact of the connector(CN70). Make,sure it is not corroded or damaged. Insert the connector completely. Now, if everything checks out ok at this point, this will conclude that the entire compressor assembly has failed. It should be replaced at that point. The solid state relay can be visually checked for damage as well.
NOTE: You stated that there was pinging at start up. This will be a very strong indicating of compressor failure in many cases. The failure will be mechanical in nature, and not electrical. The compressor assembly will require replacement in this case.
The main PCB can be purchased at the link provided below
http://www.partstore.com/Part/Samsung/Sa...
Part number DA41-00219k
The PCB will be in close proximity next to the actual compressor unit, behind the compressor cover, which is located on the rear lower section of the unit.
It will be behind the PCB cover, which will need to be removed to access fully for extraction.
The relay(solid state); Can be purchased at the link below
http://www.partstore.com/Part/Samsung/Sa...
Part number DA35-10013Q
You may be able to purchase these vital components locally. check with your local Samsung parts dealer or store for precise details.
The Protector can be purchased at the link below, as well.
http://www.partstore.com/Part/Samsung/Sa...
Part number DA34-10003s
Hello there. I wanted to follow up on your repair venture and see how things were progressing, Are there any updates with your issues at hand with your unit?
Can you send me pictures of circuits i need to test on pcb and compressor to determine if compressor is receiving proper run voltage to compressor relay itself.
HI. I have just sent the requested Picture to your e mail box. With that said, I do believe that the compressor is indeed receiving necessary run-time voltage. If the PCB was malfunctioning in this way, the condenser and evaporator fans would not function , as well. You have stated that the fans are rotating(running in intervals). This will rule out voltage irregularities within the PCB, itself.
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Samsung model# RS2530BBP
I removed the relay from compressor and it is solid state design.i also checked compressor and it checked out good.
Should i replace relay and protector?
I am not shure if compressor relay is receiving proper run voltage. How do i check for that?
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