WEATHERKING OIL FURNACE FORCED HOT AIR SOMETIMES BURNER COMES ON AND IT DOESNT BLOW ANY AIR IT WILL JUST SHUT DOWN . MOST OF THE TIME IT WORKS GREAT WHAT COULD CAUSE THIS?
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Re: Oil Furnace Problem
Hello Genna,
I am not a furnace guy but I may be able to give you a few ideas of things to diagnose the problem and get it resolved. First off, I assume you have a thermostat that you use to to turn your heat on. If it is a generic ( meaning : non programmable model) then you should be able to try this simple test. Remove the cover ( typically they snap on) around the thermostat so you can see the control mechanism inside. You should see few skinny wires ( similar to those used on a telephone wire) solid copper in various colors.. When you rotate the dial on your thermostat to call for heat, there is a small glass vial that has a drop of mercury ( which is electrically conductive) in it that makes contact and shorts two control wires together ad that is what calls for heat on your furnace. When the temp inside the room where the thermostat is reaches the tempertaure you requested, the bimetal mechanism either contracts or expands to reposition that glass vial to shift the mercury off the contacts and your furnace shuts off... That is the basics behind how your thermostat and furnace work ( generally speaking) If you can identify the two wires inside the thermosat that are shorted together when that vial of mercury shorts them inside it.. you can temproarily unhook them ( they are low voltage.. normally 24 Volts or less) so no worries about getting ashock or anything.. and short them together for a minute or two.. by doing that... your furnace should turn on and heat should flow.... Once you start your furnace this way.. unhook these two wires and your furnace should shut down .. It may take a minute or two ( depending on the control for it) If it doesn't..then your problem is on the furnace side and you may need to get the furnace control system serviced or replaced.. if it does shut down, then your problem is your thermostat and thats a simple replacement.. Also.. make sure the thermostat was properly leveled on its base.. The position of the thermostat ( meaning level) will dictate when that mercury makes contact and your furnace switches on.. OK..I tried to explain the works of this to you but here is a link to a Honeywell site that explains it in simpler terms.. The part about shorting the two wires together and then opening them will aid you in identifying where the problem actually is.. here is the link: http://homerepair.about.com/od/heatingcoolingrepair/ss/thermostat.htm
Hope this helps you more than confuses you..
Regards
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There is no flow rating because it would depend on too many factors. What you do need to check is the float valve. The water valve is opening and closing like it should be but the reservoir is filling too much.
first , make sure thermostat is level on the wall. If o.k. try adjusting the anticipator at the thermostat. remove cover and you should see same as in picture. Move arm away from longer slightly, and try it a few times, each time before going more. If that doesn't help, it may be time for a new thermostat.
The outdoor thermostat senses the the temp of the outside air, and adjust the boiler water temp according to what it knows is best. The reason that the boiler is running longer is the old boiler used to be constantly sending 180ish degree water to the baseboard, now that water may only be 140ish degrees. The idea behind this is to reduce off cycle heat loss, as the greater the temp difference between the air temp and water temp, the quicker you loss heat. The theory in boiler run time is this, the less times it starts and stops, and the long run times will give you the best efficiency. Hope this answers you questions.
I corrected the problem...RH is rising nicely!! Installed by "professionals" on my Trane XV90....I redid their wiring and now have the following setup...
600A water supply coming from hot water line. Removed orifice inside incoming feed tube. control incoming water flow from saddlevalve on hot water supply ( make sure its a nice solid flow, no drips, but no "force" too it either)..enough to insure entire evaporator unit is wet and water is slightly flowing out of bottom to drain.
I also have it wired to run when ever the furnace blower is on. Heat or no heat. XV90 is variable speed, and by doing this the 600a is always adding moisture, until it reaches correct RH%
Also, I disconnected the outdoor temp sensor. I went to Radio Shack and bought a 47K ohm resistor ( 1/2 watt....4 pack for 99 cents). Installed that in place of outdoor sensor...now runs in manual mode. Have unit currently set to number 5.
When your unit is on normal the outside unit works and the inside only the fan runs. your heat pump does not remove any humidity when it operates so the installation cotractor did not wire it to operate then. you can change the wiring on the humidifier to operate all the time by wiring it to the fan (g) terminal then it should work just turn it all the way to the lowest humidity when you are in cooling mode.
It sounds like the humidifier may be improperly wired.
It's hard to solve without checking the wiring, but it seems like the humidistat is wired so that as the dial is advanced, it incorrectly turns on the fan, or furnace, or both. The contacts of the humidistat should be wired so that they turn on the solenoid only. Also, the power to the humidistat, to turn on the solenoid, should come on only when the fan is on.
Hope this helps!
You should take out that aprilaire and throw it in the garbage or return it to who you got it from. Ask them why they didn't offer you the best humidifiers available. The only way to truly control humidity in your home without running your heat is a steam humidifier. Autoflo makes a good one also honeywell makes a new one. I have installed a honeywell tru steam in my own home and a few customers it hasn't lived up to its advertising. The auto flo has never given me any problems with customers.
I had this problem several years ago. In order for the water to flow, the outside temperature sending unit must indicate to the controller that it is less than 60F. If not, the unit will not operate outside of test mode. Check the temp outside where your sending unit is (could the sun be heating that side of the house?) and ensure that the circuit to the sending unit is working. I had a bad wire splice inside a wire nut stopping the circuit. Took me a long while to figure it out.
If the outside temp and your sending unit circuit is ok, I wish you luck on your troubleshooting.
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