Kenmore stacked washer/dryer 970-17802. Dryer doesn't work any more. If you turn the timer knob into a cycle, and twist the start button, you can hear the clickety-click of the timer working, but the dryer doesn't start spinning. I exposed the controls, and shorted the two terminals on the start button mechanism - no difference. I thought if the start buttom mechanism was faulty, shorting it might make the dryer start. Now stumped. Is the timer shot? Is there a fuse or breaker blown? I looked for an access door to fuses or breakers, couldn't find any. Any advice greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Hi Bruce,

To follow up on where I left off previously, the best way to do that I think is to directly address a couple of points (or expand on them) in your last reply that I hadn't already.

First on your comment of the hi-limit "If the thermal cutout tripped in, doesn't that indicate that there is some other problem with the dryer, or do they sometimes trip even though the dryer is okay?"

...usually there is something else wrong, yes. Further to this it is typically a venting issue, whether that is insufficient air flow due to lint built up inside the exhaust system somewhere, the lint screen itself obstructed by a static/freshner sheet or the lint filter itself need's cleaning.

Many times it is due to excessive lint built up or the vent is too long or the use of "flex" hose has caught up to the customer...that stuff is aweful and very ******* dryers.

**One must also insure the unit isn't being over loaded and the washer is spinning the items out sufficiently to extract enough water, thus making the dryer able to perform without overheating**

The next question you hade in your reply was "I think you're telling me to short out the thermal protectors like I did with the start knob. How can I check that if the dryer is disconnected?

...indeed it cannot be done this way without it having power. I suggest doing this cautiously, unhook the dryer power cord from the wall, jump the hi-limit (just the small one on the back wall for now) join them together with electrical tape, insuring they are covered well and secure, plug the dryer in and try it.

The alternative as I alluded to is testing the hi-limit with an ohm meter. Make sure the unit is unplugged of course. Remove at least one wire from the hi-limit and test for continuity. If this confirms the hi-limit is the culprit, replace it and your're good to go...remembering to clean out any duct work, lint screen etc.

I will send you that service manual now. Let me know if you have any questions going forward and I will help in any manner I can. Good luck and reply at your convenience.

Regards,

Macmarkus :) Hi Bruce,

To follow up on where I left off previously, the best way to do that I think is to directly address a couple of points (or expand on them) in your last reply that I hadn't already.

First on your comment of the hi-limit "If the thermal cutout tripped in, doesn't that indicate that there is some other problem with the dryer, or do they sometimes trip even though the dryer is okay?"

...usually there is something else wrong, yes. Further to this it is typically a venting issue, whether that is insufficient air flow due to lint built up inside the exhaust system somewhere, the lint screen itself obstructed by a static/freshner sheet or the lint filter itself need's cleaning.

Many times it is due to excessive lint built up or the vent is too long or the use of "flex" hose has caught up to the customer...that stuff is aweful and very ******* dryers.

**One must also insure the unit isn't being over loaded and the washer is spinning the items out sufficiently to extract enough water, thus making the dryer able to perform without overheating**

The next question you hade in your reply was "I think you're telling me to short out the thermal protectors like I did with the start knob. How can I check that if the dryer is disconnected?

...indeed it cannot be done this way without it having power. I suggest doing this cautiously, unhook the dryer power cord from the wall, jump the hi-limit (just the small one on the back wall for now) join them together with electrical tape, insuring they are covered well and secure, plug the dryer in and try it.

The alternative as I alluded to is testing the hi-limit with an ohm meter. Make sure the unit is unplugged of course. Remove at least one wire from the hi-limit and test for continuity. If this confirms the hi-limit is the culprit, replace it and your're good to go...remembering to clean out any duct work, lint screen etc.

I will send you that service manual now. Let me know if you have any questions going forward and I will help in any manner I can. Good luck and reply at your convenience.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

[email protected] . Mine wont turn on. i bought a new start button but nothing is turning on. washer works dryer doesn't [email protected] . Mine wont turn on. i bought a new start button but nothing is turning on. washer works dryer doesn't