The transmition keeps dropping out of gear then jam right back into gear. it runs great cold but once it heats up it starts dropping out of gear any ideas? 1983 chevy citation v6 {x}

the detonation (pinging) is an indication that the fuel/air mixture ratio is out ( lean) or the timing is wrong (too far advanced). The mixture is set by both the HO2S sensor and the O2 sensor so check them out for failure. If it is a V engine check out all 4 units. The timing may indicate a faulty ignition module so look in that area for the hard starting. There will be codes stored but you may have to get an expert to connect the data link correctly top get the CPU to read out Different systems, different leads ,different pin connections

Check to make sure you are getting 12v to the starter when you hit the start button. If you are,then yes,...most likely the starter is toast. But if youre not,..then check all fuses and the starter relay.

Check to see if the latch in the door jamb is in the closed position. You can look at the door that is closing right to see what the latch looks like when it is open. If the latch is closed take a flat blade screwdriver and flip it to the open position. Lube the latches with penetrating oil. The heater blowing cold could mean a stuck thermostat. Take the radiator cap off and start the engine. Look into the radiator and see if the coolant is moving or flowing. Since the engine has not run long enough to get warm, the coolant should not be moving at all. If it' moving, then the thermostat is not working right and needs to be replaced.. If the coolant is not moving, keep the engine running until the thermostat opens. If the coolant level drops when the thermostat opens, then there is air in the cooling system. Add antifreeze to bring the coolant back to the full point and watch for it to go down again. If it does, add more antifreeze. Keep doing this until it no longer drops, put the cap back on the radiator and check the heater.

I'd check for trouble codes if you haven't already. Sometimes emissions related things like egr (exhaust gas recirculation valves, pcv (positive crankcase ventilation or even heat riser valves can become faulty and cause problems when the vehicle reaches peak operating temperatures. check for dtc codes and let me know if you come up with any

Mechanics probably didn't get all the air out of the cooling system. Take the radiator cap off and start the engine. Turn the heater on high and let the car warm up until the thermostat opens and coolant is flowing in the radiator. Keep the radiator full as level may begin dropping. Let it run a while keeping it full and look for any bleeder ports on the hoses or the housings where the hoses attach. Break any bleeders open to let air out. Top off the radiator and put the cap on. You should have heat. Let me know if you don't.

I assume you are gearing for a overhaul of the coolant... in that case here goes.
Once you get to the point were you will be filling it, fill it to the cold line first and first make sure you have enough mixed new antifreeze on-hand to fill it to spec. Keep the tank cap off. Turn the heat on full HOT (low fan) and start the car. Keep an eye on the coolant level and add while the car is running to keep it somewhat near the cold line. Once you determine that you are not adding anymore coolant, shut down the engine and be prepared to add more coolant because it may drop when the car engine stops. If after a series of engine start/stops there is no more coolant needed and it's at the correct fill mark, screw the tank cap back on nice and snug and open the throttle a little more. Make sure heat is coming from vents to indicate circulation and a purge of air in the heater core and make sure the level doesn't drop too much. Drive a few miles and back and then shut the car off and allow to cool for several hours. Check the level once more and top off if needed(put cap back on).This should do it.

hi nl friday,

here is a trick i learned from a friend who is a great fan of V twins.

on cold starts he usually opens the drain plug to let the carb balancer / floater set. once a few drops comes out, open the choke then start the engine. right after pushing the choke back, twist the throttle to force the jet to spray out.

hope this will work for you.

regards,

voodoo

This is a common problem. You have a cracked forward clutch piston. Ford made this part out of aluminum. The replacements are steel. But you have to disassemble the transmission to install it. ( I know you said Rev too, In the AXODE trans, the forward clutch is on in 1st and reverse)

Replace the thermostat. If thermo is stuck open, coolant only heats up when there is no flow over radiator(idle) and then cools down when driving. Also, check coolant level, same response as stuck thermo.

engine coolant temp sensor is most likely cracked.. I know it sounds strange but pull it if your looking at the engine it is on the right side of the head Will make the car hard to start, smoke, and the idle will often race up and down.. easy to fix 15 dollars or so..