All functions show as off on the indoor panel and the outdoor panel, but the filter pump will not shut down. Also, the spa keeps shutting off after a few minutes. this is an aqualink rs4 system.

Is your indoor fan running also? If not, your condenser contactor has welded shut and needs to be replaced

I'm not sure if the thermostat is wired correctly. First, the thermostat is wired directly to the outdoor unit (compressor/condenser unit). It is NOT directly connected to the indoor unit. It connects to a low voltage control panel in the outdoor unit that sends a signal to your indoor fan/evaporator. This wire is called the fan relay switch and physically runs between the low voltage controls of the indoor and outdoor units. If the fan relay is bad it's possible that the unit runs continuously. To prevent destroying your outdoor unit there is a safety feature that prevents the indoor fan from shutting down while the outdoor unit is running. If the indoor fan did shut down while the outdoor unit was running than you would slug your compressor. That is, your compressor normally sees refrigerant gas but is instead seeing refrigerant liquid. That would not be good since this scenario would destroy your compressor. It sounds like a faulty fan relay. The actual contactor portion of the relay is in the outdoor unit.

need more info is it a wired controller if so make sure 4 pin red plug is plugged into bezel board sometimes they unplug for winterization if plugged in make sure where it goes into house or into RS system that the wire isnot cut or nicked sounds like it isnt seeing controller if all ok shut system down and reboot

reset timmer system

I would call the Pentair technical support at 800-693-0971 number and they should be able help determine what to do next.

Pease let me know how this works out. Thank you.

Yes a pump does have a thermal cut out. When the motor gets too hot the thermal cut out will activate and the pump won't restart until the motor has cooled.


If you were an electrician, or highly confident/competent with electrics, you could test the motor with a volt meter. Run the spa and as soon as the pump stops running, check the voltage at the pump. If there is voltage at the pump, then the thermal cut out on the motor has activated. Do not try checking this yourself if you're not competent to do so.

You could also do the same test at the spa pack if it's easier to do so, just locate the output to the pump.

What spa and which spa pack have you got?

Cheers,
Ian.

Trouble shooting guide

The relay is probably bad. If you open up the main outdoor panel, you can watch the bottom of the relay for the pump, ususally on the upper left of the relay cluster (black). Watch for a small tab popping out when turning on/off. If you don't see it, the relay is bad. This assumes you hear a click when doing this.

Jandy relays are known to stick. You can diagnose this yourself with a screwdriver. Remove the four screws on the outside panel. You will see a series of black rectangular relays and a lot of wires. Typically the pump relay is the one in the upper right. It will certainly be the one plugged into the left hand socket at the bottom of the circuit board.

Be sure to do all of this simply be looking. You can move the twisted red/black wires a bit to determine which relay is plugged into the first socket. Try to notice on the bottom of the relay a small black tab that is sticking out. When out, the relay is on. If the pump is running, this tab is out. If you then put the controller into service mode and the lights go out without the tab popping back in, you have a bad relay. If turning the pump off does not put the pump light out, you have a bad board.

In most cases, the relay is bad and it is a simple fix.