I have removed the cover by undoing the two screws under the rubber feet on the base. But the new replacement switch assembly does not seem to have the same amount connections inside even though the three buttons are the same. Please can you help?
Do you own a 5100 or 5150 model? some parts are different.
USA: there is Authorized Repair Center in san Francisco: The gourmet Depot - http://www.thegourmetdepotco.com/store/
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Dont know what the problem is, you didnt say.
Merely take the screws out. Usually on the bottom
of the unit. Heres your big hint, possibly. Some screws
are hidden under the rubber feet.
Try buying a new motor base on eBay. It's actually quite cheap. If you are daunted by the shipping cost of this monster, you can always ask the seller to sell you just the brown bottom cover. Under each foot is a screw which attaches the molded base it to the rest of the assembly. It's a lot cheaper to just have that part sent to you. This works as long as you are handy in making the switch of the base.
hi if you still have problems email me and i will try and talk you through, it may be the belt (teeth worn out) or the pulley (same problem). the info given in your post is very vague. if its the teeth on either the belt or pulley there is a simple fix. remove bottom of base with screwdriver there should be screws under the feet of machine. use a bike valve screwdriver to remove the two remaining screws(depending on make and model) remove belt, put RUBBER BAND
1. First pry out the 4 black rubber feet on the base with small screwdriver and unscrew the 4 cross head screws revealed below.
2. Remove this black base to reveal the inner black base Unscrew the cable clamp - 2 screws and the 3 screws that retain the remaining black base to the body of the bullet - slide it off over the power cable.
3. Turn the bullet the proper way up and pry out the 3 white rubber bumpers with a screw driver blade that are set inside for the cup to rest on - each is located with two rubber pins. Once all 3 are removed you will reveal 3 more cross head screws - these countersunk - remove all 3 and then the internal motor will be free to lift out through the top of the Bullet casing.
4. Its possible to slip out the 3 white plastic sliders - taking care to note how they seat each on a small spring to cleanup both the slides and the sliders.
To re assemble step by step in reverse - noting to align the motor cable with the cutouts on the bullet base.
I posted the reply pasted below on how to take the Bullet apart - really not difficult once you know where the hidden screws are apart. Once apart it easy to see where the power cable terminates and should be easily possible to connect in a new cable in its place.
Yes its easy to take the Magic Bullet apart.
1. First pry out the 4 black rubber feet on the base with small screwdriver and unscrew the 4 cross head screws revealed below.
2. Remove this black base to reveal the inner black base Unscrew the cable clamp - 2 screws and the 3 screws that retain the remaining black base to the body of the bullet - slide it off over the power cable.
3. Turn the bullet the proper way up and pry out the 3 white rubber bumpers with a screw driver blade that are set inside for the cup to rest on - each is located with two rubber pins. Once all 3 are removed you will reveal 3 more cross head screws - these countersunk - remove all 3 and then the internal motor will be free to lift out through the top of the Bullet casing.
4. Its possible to slip out the 3 white plastic sliders - taking care to note how they seat each on a small spring to cleanup both the slides and the sliders.
To re assemble step by step in reverse - noting to align the motor cable with the cutouts on the bullet base.
As other contributes have said, remove all the screws from the base, the spindle can be released by caerfuly prising out the small plastic clip halfway up the spindle, it will slide easily off and the large spindle drive wheel can be removed. Push the control knob out from behind, the knob and e surround come out as one unit. Remove the accessories holder and remove the two screws holding the top cover on. Now turn the unit the right wat up to start to release the top. Carefully prise the top cover off, there are two plastic clips at the front. Now you have exposed the top of the unit and the safety switch actuator. Remove the screws, the hardest job is to release the actuator rocker arm. I could not release the pivot support, so took the rocker off the pivot. Now you should be able to lift the cover off the motor and Access the control board. There are two screw holding the control assembly in place and two which hold the circuit board to the switch. Replace the Triac and diac then reassemble.
Cuisinart does not have the original pieces available, but you can order a replacement work bowl, lid, sleeve, etc that will work from the company. First do a motor test to make sure the motor is still working:
Cuisinart Food Processors – Motor Test First, do a motor test by removing the work bowl completely and using a pen to press in the grey button on top of the base (with the food processor turned on of course), toward the back. If the processor spins, the motor is still good. At that point, I would inspect the work bowl pieces, lid, pusher assembly, etc for cracks/damage. If all appears well, insert ALL the pieces back into place and try again. If even one piece is out of place, the processor will not spin. If it no longer spins, the motor has a problem. Good luck! -Tha Mp3 Doctor
Remove the base the screws are under the rubber feet,on top of the machine there are three screw caps remove these with a bradel, unscrew screws with large torx screw driver, remove spindle anti clockwise by locking out fan at base. for all Robot coupe parts go to http://www.catering-machines.com/
I have the part, it is the wiring that is different.
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