Freezer is too warm. We have cleaned all vents but is still in the 40s

BA Baker... hello,

Ice collecting on the bottom of the freezer.. is not such a terrible thing...

(Probably means the defrost is working... (merely not EXITING)).

New refrig or unfamiliar refrig could cause deeper analysis...
but if ...

If this is not a new device... and has been happily tending to it's own needs (evaporating well) for a while (months would be re-assuring)...

Then you are MOST probably looking at a clogged evaporator drain... (usually easily fixed by negotiating "WARM" (not hot) through the bottom vents slots of your freezer section.

Looking under your Refrigerator/Freezer... or consulting your owners manual... Locate your defrost "catch" pan...

It should NOT be dusty...

(easily tested: clean paper in tray...
Still clean tomorrow = clogged drain (pan is watered daily).

Close inspection should reveal a tube descending into it.... This is where you will watch for your patiently applied doses of warm water to appear... (near immediate).

It may take several doses... because ice can also have formed over the drain... Be persistent... You will be proud.

Please comment me back... I really like REFRIGERATORS/Frzrs...
few appliances tend to themselves so well (adorable).

Samsung RF4287HABP User Manual

Hello;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.

There are several things to check:

1.) Door Gasket -Take a piece of paper. With the freezer door closed run the paper around the gasket. If you can do that, then you are not getting a good seal.
Repair: Clean the freezer door gasket with soap and water. While still wet, take a hair dryer and a spatula, going around the gasket, heat the gasket while pulling the gasket out to expand it.
Note: This only solves the problem if there is frost in the front area of your freezer.

2.) Freezer fan not working - In some cases, The freezer fan helps to prevent warm air from getting into the freezer.

3.) Food Storage - Make sure you do not overload the freezer, and that the food product is inside the bounds of the racks.

4.) Fresh Food Section Air Vent Wide Open - This is your probable cause: Heat goes to Cold like a magnet. When you open your fresh food section door and then close it you are forcing warm air up the vent that goes to the freezer. You probably have a broken air vent assembly.

Try clearing all vents - inside (make sure vents not covered - in fridge and freezer) and outside (gently vacuum - the coil areas in the back and bottom of fridge)
May be overworking itself to stay cold

Find the water drain hole/pipe and clean it thoroughly with a pipe cleaner or other softish flexible rod. That should allow the water to drain away. Make sure back of the unit is clear and clean so water drains and evaporates off properly.

Sounds like a loose wire since the move. Check you have power at the switch (in and out). If you have, check the starters and ballasts

A defective temperature control can cause that problem.
Check by dialing it, it should be smooth when dialed.
It should be on desired degrees where you set it and not on other.
Thanks for asking.

Air from the freezer is blown into the fridge by a fan, some new type frigs have electronic controls that open and close a vent to frig. the older ones have two vents in the frig from the freezer and when covered with frost or ice the air will not reach the frig. check for ice or just defrost the freezer if there is ice or frost, also check for food or plastic over vents in freezer. Also check that the freezer fan is running as these sometimes become blocked or defective motor.

HI, you will need to inspect the compressor to make sure it is cycling in intervals. if the compressor is not cycling, this will confirm compressor failure. The evaporator fan blows cold air into the freezer and from there it vents into the refrigerator. Occasionally the vents between the freezer and refrigerator can become clogged with ice, food or other debris. In most refrigerators the cold control for the refrigerator opens and closes these vents. That mechanism may become inoperative resulting in the vents becoming stuck open or closed.

Inspect the vents to determine what is preventing the free flow of air. An overcrowded refrigerator or freezer may be the cause. In other cases the vents may need to be cleaned or ice melted away. To remove a build up of ice, use a hair dryer set to "low". Using a higher setting may damage the freezer. WARNING: Do not let melting ice drip onto the hair dryer. In some models, the vent is located under the temperature control console. The housing either snaps into place or is held in place with screws. Remove the screws, or gently depress the retaining clips with a small screwdriver. Allow the housing to hang by its wiring. A freezer vent control may also have to be removed to access the vent. In some freezer-on-top models, it may be necessary to remove the floor of the freezer to inspect for obstructions.

The condenser coils dissipate heat. If dust and debris accumulate around the coils, your refrigerator may not be able to cool properly, it may run continuously or it may stop completely as a result of an overheated compressor. You should clean rear-mounted coils once a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Refrigerators are heavy, never tip one forward or backward. Never attempt to move a refrigerator without an assistant. Vacuum or brush the coils. If coils have a filmy build-up, use warm soapy water to clean them. Take care not to spill or drip water onto the components of the refrigerator.You should clean floor level coils at least twice a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Vacuum or brush the coils. Remove the grill from the front of the refrigerator and use a vacuum with a wand attachment to remove any dust and debris. The grill should snap off and on. Pull firmly toward you and possibly upward to remove the grill. If it does not come off with a modest effort, check for screws or retaining clips that may hold it in place.

Another inspection point will be the door seals. This is a easy way for the cold air to escape from your unit as well. this will cause the temperature to rise. The seal should make smooth continuous contact with the refrigerator case. When the seal does not seal completely, warm air enters the appliance. This results in more frequently compressor operation and possibly the inability of the appliance to maintain proper temperature. To test the seal, use the dollar bill test. Place a a dollar bill or a piece of paper between the seal and the refrigerator and close the door. Now pull the paper out. You should feel tension as you pull. Retest along the entire door seal. Replace the seal if the test was unsuccessful.

Next will be the door switch. The interior light in most refrigerators, and the fan in some, are controlled by a door switch. When the door is closed, the switch is depressed and the interior light goes off and the fan resumes normal operation. If the door is misaligned or the switch malfunctions, the refrigerator may become warm as a result of the non-operation of the evaporator fan and the heat generated by the interior light. Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to zero when the probes touch the terminals. With the probes still touching the terminals depress the switch, the reading should change back to infinity. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.

Be sure to confirm evaporator fan function as well. if the fan is defective, it will prevent proper cooling as well.

This will conclude the most common issue with a under preforming unit. I would advise to check all the above and, if the unit continues to not cool after all the above adjustments are made, i will recommend replacing the cold control device,thermostat and main circuit board.

Concerning the defrost switch:

To test whether the defrost timer is simply failing to advance, locate the advance screw and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. This advances it to the next mode. If it was cooling before, it is now in defrost mode. Simply wait about 35 minutes and check whether it has left defrost mode and has resumed cooling (listen for the compressor). If it does not advance, the timer motor is probably bad and the entire timer needs to be replaced.

Hi..

Try to check this

• Check the temperature setting
• Assure that there is enough room for air flow in the refrigerator or freezer
• Check for air flow restrictions in vents
• Test the temperature control
• Clean the condensor coils
• Check the door seals
• Test the door switch
• Test defrost heater
• Test defrost timer
• Test evaporator fan
• Check for a clogged drain tube
• Check for refrigerant leak

Good luck!!!

Regards
PCmania

I think your system has a leak and has lost the refrigerant charge.
The only way to check is by accessing the sealed system. Most systems are covered for five years on the compressor. Contact the place of purchase and give them your indications for your problem.