Without doing the minimal setting test to see if a time clock works how do you test a time clock with defrost termination the x terminal

Copy following link for defrost timers:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Paragon-timers-and-manuals.html#defrost

There are 2 general types defrost timers.
Time activated - Time terminated
Time activated - Temperature-pressure terminated, with timed termination back-up

Here is basic image:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/8145-work-image.jpg
Rotate dial until current time lines up with pointer, insert tripper pin on outside edge of dial to select defrost start-time, move defrost duration tripper on inner dial to set termination time.

Each defrost timer is slightly different:
If timer is time-terminated, then wiring follows certain diagram.
If timer is temperature-pressure terminated, then different wiring diagram is used.

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Open following link to identify timer:
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Intermatic-PB800-PB900-timers.pdf

The timer has 4 terminal connections.
2 terminal connections are for the clock motor, and 2 terminals are switched just like ordinary light switch.
See how to connect terminal ends to electrical wire by crimping:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Terminals.html

Which 2 terminals are for clock, and which 2 are for switch?
Test across both sets of terminals using continuity tester or multimeter set to read ohms.
Then rotate override knob to next position, and repeat test on both sets of terminals.
The set of terminals that changed when override was rotated are the switch terminals.
The other set of terminals are the clock terminals.

Connect 120Volt Hot and neutral to the clock terminals. Turn on power and make sure clock dial rotates.
Next: the cable going to Load has 2 wires: Black and white.
Cut the black wire. Crimp terminal connections on each end. Connect each end of black wire to the switch terminals.

To set timer for on-off operation, open following link:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-set-timers.html

You refrigerator was made by Frigidaire Adaptive Defrost Controls Frigidaire Refrigerator Trouble Shooting and Diagnosing
On the initial plugin, or when power is restored to the fridge after a power outage:
If terminating thermostat is open, the fridge enters a compressor (cooling) cycle.
If the terminating thermostat is closed, the first defrost cycle occurs 1 hour
after initial plug-in.
Maximum defrost cycle time is 24 minutes.
Minimum time between defrost cycles is 6 hours. (compressor runtime)
Maximum normal clock time between defrost cycles is 12 hours.
Maximum time between defrost cycles (in "vacation" mode) is 72 hours.
Vacation mode is not entered unless the door has not been opened in at least 24 hours.
Note that the ADC will only enter the defrost mode if the terminating thermostat is closed. If the terminating thermostat is open when defrost is initiated, the ADC board will wait for six minutes and then return to the cooling mode.
ASSUMING that the fridge has been on and running,
and the terminating thermostat is closed,
defrost is initiated by pressing the door (light) switch
at least five times within six seconds.
The defrost heater should start heating up within 8 seconds.
If the above procedure caused the heater to heat up, the ADC board is probably bad; replace it.
If the defrost heater does not heat up, test the defrost heater, terminating thermostat and cold control for continuity as follows:
Unplug the fridge from the wall. Unplug the ADC board from its connector.
Test the connector for continuity between the following leads:
Defrost Heater = DEF TERM (blue) to DEF OUT (brown).
Terminating Thermostat = DEF TERM (blue) to NEUTRAL (lt blue).
Cold Control = COLD CONTROL (orange) to L1 (black).
Replace the defective component.

I have tested this timer.
GE 15132 timer can be wired muliple ways to accommodate different voltages and many different timing needs.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-GE-15132-timer.html

1) First thing is you must set dip switches BEFORE applying power.
Timer arrives pre-set for 277Volts.
For 120V, set all 4 dip switches to the left, or ON.

2) Otherwise your wiring sounds correct.
Hot black wire to far left 'clock' terminal.
Neutral white wire to next 'clock' terminal.

Jumper from Hot terminal to COM terminal.
Black Load wire on NO terminal.
White Load wire to same 'clock' terminal as Neutral

3) Possible solution:
Move wires to COM2 and NO2 and see if that relay is working.

4) Make sure your programming does not have conflicts.
See if manual override is working.
Test for voltage across 'clock' terminals
Move manual override and watch if relay clicks open-closed.
Check that Load is operable by moving NO wire to COM terminal.

5) If timer is not functioning, exchange at Home Depot.
You can switch out mechanism without replacing box.
Mechanism is held with hex screws.

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You posted under Deihl time clock.

1) Deihl makes 120V and 240V timers with NO and NC terminals.
These timers usually have 5 terminals. Some have 4 terminals.
Facing the terminals, first two terminals on left are for clock motor. Use multimeter set to read 120V and then 240V to check voltage of your clock motor.
Three terminals on right are NO, COM and NC.
Turn power off, pull wires loose and use multi-meter set to Ohms to check continuity of terminals and figure out which terminal is which.

2) Open following links to help identify your manual.
http://www.borggeneral.com/diehl-control-timers.html
http://www.borggeneral.com/industrial-timers.html

3) Other companies make similar timers, with various wiring, but all can be tested as shown in #1 above.

4) Add a comment and describe your timer and what timer is connected to.
This will give us clearer idea how to answer your question without guessing.

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Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on timer or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Sample 120V Deihl 880 wiring:

Terminal #3 on time clock is for defrost heater.

Terminal #4 on time clock is for compressor

See wiring diagrams and manuals at following link:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Paragon-timers-and-manuals.html#defrost

8145-20 is 240V time initiated, pressure or temperature terminated with back-up time termination.
8045-20 is 240V time initiated, time terminated.

So 8145-20 has pressure or temperature limit switch that connects to terminal X that turns timer off, and ends defrost cycle. This timer is for hot gas defroster that has pressure/temperature limits. Check and see what the back-up time termination is set at on 8145-20. Look at small inner dial.

The 8045-20 timer does not use pressure/temperature limit switch, and instead you have to estimate length of time you want defrost cycle to run, and set inner dial to that time. Use same time as back-up time termination on 8145-20. Of course the pressure/temperature limits would not be exact and defrost cycle might not work correctly.

Here's the change-over wiring from 8145-20 to 8045-20.
There are other wiring variants depending on equipment.
240V hot wires from breaker box are L1 and L2
a) 8145-20 L1 is at terminal 1 > move L1 to terminal N on 8045-20
8145-20 L2 is at terminal N > move L2 to terminal X on 8045-20

b) 8145-20 hot gas defroster is at NO terminal 3 > move defroster to NO terminal 3 on 8045-20
Complete the 240 circuit to defroster by connecting to L2 at terminal X

c) 8145-20 refrigeration is at NC terminal 4 > move refrigeration to NC terminal 4 on 8045-20
Complete the 240 circuit to refrigeration by connecting to L2 at terminal X

Unit is obviously in defrost too long. Verify defrost clock operation and time setting.You may reduce the amount of minutes per cycle that defrost is actually called on for . 20 minutes should be adequate if you are defrosting more than once per 24 hrs. Defrost clock should have "X" terminal which will terminate defrost once evaporator coils reach a certain temp. It is controlled by a three wire defrost thermostat relay(clixon) attatched to the actual coil in the event this coil reaches 50 degree,the clixon triggers the "X" wire in the timer and terminates defrosting.It figures if it reaches 50 degrees,it must then be free of ice on the coils

I am not professional at commercial refrigeration, and can't answer your question directly.
However, you can see 8145-20 240V defrost timer wiring diagrams and manuals on following link.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Paragon-timers-and-manuals.html#defrost

8145 timer is time initiated, and pressure/temperature terminated, with back-up time termination.

electric heater must activate and warm to de-ice the evap coil in the correct amount of time ..elements setting under evap coils.ck for voltage to element leads while in defrost.You may wish to remove X terminal wire from defrost clock in order for the clock not to terminate early