Question about Ovens
Posted by jamene schotsch on
It may just be the thermostat going bad. The thermostat tells the oven temperature controller what the temperature is inside the oven. As they go bad they send back incorrect signals. They are relatively simple repairs.
Posted on Nov 22, 2017
SOURCE: Kitchen Aid ovens - error codes
The F-3 error code typically means you have sensor problem. The sensor is usually mounted in the oven space up near the top of the unit. The first thing to do is turn off the circuit breaker to the oven. Do you have an ohm meter? I suggest if you don't to purchase one. They are relatively inexpensive. Maybe you can borrow one from a friend. Disconnect the sensor from the electronic control and measure the resistance. There should be a wiring diagram in the top of the unit that will help you to locate the sensor wires. Most sensors should read around 1100 ohms at room temperature. If sensor reads as an open circuit or has a very high resistance, it must be replaced. If instead it reads very low, then there is a short in the wiring. Some units have a fuse in series with the sensor. Check to see that the fuse has not blown.
Posted on May 03, 2007
SOURCE: Ovens won't heat up beyond 250 degrees.
if you cant program it for more than the 270 you may have changed it from farienhiet ( bad spelling) to celcius. pushing and holding broil may switch it back.
Posted on May 02, 2009
SOURCE: GE JTP 1580W288 Set oven to Bake, switches to broil at bake temp
The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site.
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws.
Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement.
The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven.
If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock.
You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board.
On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced.
If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors.
Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
Posted on Jun 28, 2009
SOURCE: Our kitchen Aid Superba Double Oven makes noises
We had the same problem. It is the fan in one or both of the ovens. we had a repairman come out because the ovens have to come out of the wall. It was a quick fix.
Posted on Nov 20, 2009
SOURCE: Kitchen Aid Superba Double Oven
I have a superba double oven,electric model; KEBS207BWH2 that is 15 years old, It has a random problem where the timer won't work, there is an error number comes on once in a while. The temp will not be as hot as you have put it. The repairman said I need a new circuit board, which is not available anymore. anyone have any solutions?
Posted on Mar 04, 2010
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