Kenmore undercounter dishwasher quiet guard

Do I need to push other than the start button to start dishwasher Do I need to push other than the start button to start dishwasher

First check for power to the dishwasher, best to use a non-contact voltage sensor. Around $5 from Harbor Freight, or $80 for a Fluke brand. Once establishing your dishwasher has poser to it, check power with the non-contact voltage sensor on both sides of the Thermo-fuse. You can also use a voltmeter on both sides of the fuse, while touching any ground with the other meter probe. Check both sides and you should have power, or voltage, if you do not then the fuse is blown and will have to be replaced with a same and like rating or specification part replacement. If you have power on both sides of the fuse then your problem rests forward of the fuse, probably the circuit board. What I did was to replace the Thermo-fuse with a Push Button Thermal Circuit Breaker, 10A Item #: B7010. It has two 0.25 inch connectors that fit perfectly with the connectors attached to the burnt fuse. I purchased it for $3.99, but checking recently it is up to $4.39. The circuit breaker pops around once or twice every few months. I get to cleaning the inside of the dishwasher, the heater connectors and filters. I then press the reset button and away she goes for several months. The replacement Thermo-fuse calls for a $25 part kit that calls for cutting your old wires and splicing in the new ones. Keep in mind that it is a one shot deal, if it pops, you need to replace it with another $25 part kit. The reason the wires need to be cut is because the old female connector experience high current when the fuse blew and might have corrosion which is interpreted with resistance, which will cause a voltage drop thus current flow higher than normal and since current is heat POP! goes the fuse and not the weasel. I believe weasels are more than $25 these days. Another reason to cut-off the old plugs is that they may be loose and not snug, which will also cause higher resistance and the scenario repeats itself. Using thermo dynamics, Ohms and Joules with Watt's laws and $3.99 I was able to fix the problem and I hope I can help others as I have been helped in these sights. Word of advise, if you have power (voltage) on one side of the burnt fuse, DISCONNECT the house breaker feeding power to your dishwasher before you disconnect the burnt fuse and connect the replacement fuse, or a Push Button Thermal Circuit Breaker, 10A. And now for those with safety issue questions regarding deviating from manufacturer parts. The B7000 series circuit breakers are UL 1077 Recognized as Supplementary protectors, File E99607, and CSA Certified as appliance components protectors, File LR62590. I've had mine installed for a little over a year and has not popped more than five, I believe and since the house has not burned down, the specifications speak for themselves. Lastly, the breaker is rated for a life of 1,000 trips, so at 5 trips a year, it should be good till the year 2213, I think by then the dishwasher will be in a museum. First check for power to the dishwasher, best to use a non-contact voltage sensor. Around $5 from Harbor Freight, or $80 for a Fluke brand. Once establishing your dishwasher has poser to it, check power with the non-contact voltage sensor on both sides of the Thermo-fuse. You can also use a voltmeter on both sides of the fuse, while touching any ground with the other meter probe. Check both sides and you should have power, or voltage, if you do not then the fuse is blown and will have to be replaced with a same and like rating or specification part replacement. If you have power on both sides of the fuse then your problem rests forward of the fuse, probably the circuit board. What I did was to replace the Thermo-fuse with a Push Button Thermal Circuit Breaker, 10A Item #: B7010. It has two 0.25 inch connectors that fit perfectly with the connectors attached to the burnt fuse. I purchased it for $3.99, but checking recently it is up to $4.39. The circuit breaker pops around once or twice every few months. I get to cleaning the inside of the dishwasher, the heater connectors and filters. I then press the reset button and away she goes for several months. The replacement Thermo-fuse calls for a $25 part kit that calls for cutting your old wires and splicing in the new ones. Keep in mind that it is a one shot deal, if it pops, you need to replace it with another $25 part kit. The reason the wires need to be cut is because the old female connector experience high current when the fuse blew and might have corrosion which is interpreted with resistance, which will cause a voltage drop thus current flow higher than normal and since current is heat POP! goes the fuse and not the weasel. I believe weasels are more than $25 these days. Another reason to cut-off the old plugs is that they may be loose and not snug, which will also cause higher resistance and the scenario repeats itself. Using thermo dynamics, Ohms and Joules with Watt's laws and $3.99 I was able to fix the problem and I hope I can help others as I have been helped in these sights. Word of advise, if you have power (voltage) on one side of the burnt fuse, DISCONNECT the house breaker feeding power to your dishwasher before you disconnect the burnt fuse and connect the replacement fuse, or a Push Button Thermal Circuit Breaker, 10A. And now for those with safety issue questions regarding deviating from manufacturer parts. The B7000 series circuit breakers are UL 1077 Recognized as Supplementary protectors, File E99607, and CSA Certified as appliance components protectors, File LR62590. I've had mine installed for a little over a year and has not popped more than five, I believe and since the house has not burned down, the specifications speak for themselves. Lastly, the breaker is rated for a life of 1,000 trips, so at 5 trips a year, it should be good till the year 2213, I think by then the dishwasher will be in a museum.