> White and Red are zero volts (this is without any loading on them i.e. not connected to anything). Does this narrow the problem down to the transformer or the voltages only apply if there is loading on them? What else could be causing this issue?
If you see any way to disconnect the secondary side of the transformer, do it and then measure resistance of the windings.
This apparently uses a single winding that runs from ground to the 240V output with a tap at the 12V point or, if you have ~ 220V going in, the 240 tap may be the hot input with an 'autotransformer' tap for the 12V that is used for service voltage for the electronics.
Trace what you believe be the input side and disconnect one leg and measure there too.
In all cases, with one leg of both sides disconnected, you should measure a fairly low resistance.
On the input side, it should be under ~100 Ohms, the output side may be in the same range or (if you only have 120V going in from the wall) it could be ~ 2X the value.
The 12V tap should measure quite low, probably under 20 Ohms from the white (ground lead) and a little less than the value of the entire secondary from the high end of the secondary.
With one leg of each side of the transformer: If you find anything like 'open' or extremely high resistance (over 100,000 Ohms > infinite) anywhere that winding is sick.
Testimonial: "It was the transformer. I got a new one today and everything is working fine now. Thanks."
Disconnect power and set you meter to ohms. Check the both the line side and the low side of the the ****** for continuity. If you cannot get a reading from either side then that puppy is bad. More than likely that is gonna be it since everything quit. If it was the igniter box you might have weak spark etc. I thnk that transformer is your prob.
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Testimonial: "It was the transformer. I got a new one today and everything is working fine now. Thanks."
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It was the transformer. I got a new one today and everything is working fine now. Thanks.
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