We just had the regrigerator installed today. It was cooling and then we put the food back in and shut the doors and the readout now on the display where the temperature is says ER and CF. The water does not work and the ice does not work and I'm assuming it is no longer cooling

At least two free manuals are online, that might suggest how to change the batteries. I could not reach the manufacturer web site, that was reportedly under maintenance, but you might need to contact the manufacturer for assistance if the manuals don't help.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/69881/Honeywell-Rth230b.html

http://homeappliance.manualsonline.com/manuals/mfg/honeywell/rth230b.html

Honeywell Programmable Electronic Thermostat Installation and User Guide...

Your magnetron is overheating, and its attached thermostat is doing its job to protect the magnetron by shutting off the power to the oven until it cools back down to a safe temperature.

An overheating magnetron can be due to:

• operating oven without cover(s) in place
• wrong magnetron installed in oven
• an old or otherwise failing magnetron
• cracked magnetron magnet
• improper power line voltage (should be 110-125VAC)
• foods low in moisture (popcorn & bacon, e.g. - add 1/2 cup of water in rear oven when cooking such foods)
• failed or inoperable cooling fan or hood vent exhaust fan
• deteriorating foam weatherstripping seals in air ducts or on outside cover
• blocked air vents (dust, animal nest debris, insufficient free air space behind & around oven, etc.)
• clogged or greasy charcoal filter or grease filter
• blocked duct in hood vent exhaust

There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, and it is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

Accessing some parts may require you to pull the oven from the wall and remove the cover.

If so, the installation instructions are very handy, and it's best to have two people since the microwave can be heavy and awkward.

You can download GE owner's manuals and installation instructions here.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

One of the door switches is defective, caused by a build up of food particles or normal ware, to correct this a professional will need to identify the problem and replace it.

You want it to be slightly higher in the front. It is designed that way in order to put less stress on the doors as they swing shut. If you change the angle you will wear out the door cams in no time.

Thanks, Repairman45

Good day,
24 to 48 hours would be a normal time to wait for proper cycling.
Important thru this time period to avoid haunting the machine by opening the doors a lot. That will just drag out the time.

I wil let you know of things you can do to solve this.
This happens because the refrigerators of today are air tight, the fresh food door pushes the air into the cabinet as it closes and the air has no place to go but up the air vent into the freezer and "pops" open the freezer door. First thing is make sure the freezer door is capable of closing properly and is not rubbing or catching anywhere. I sometimes add a washer or 2 to the center hinge under the freezer door so it doesn't rub anything. Put a little Vaseline ( or food grade silicone lubricant ) on the hinge side of the seal. I then raise the front of the refrigerator so that the front of the refrigerator is a little higher than the back of the refrigerator. Never level a fridge with a level. Once you have the door closing properly and front slightly higher than the back...let the fresh food door close from 90 degrees on it's own and the freezer door may "pop" open a little but will close again on it's own...and stay closed once all is set up properly. We see this more often now and have no trouble with the door staying open again after setting up the refrigerator properly.

Hope this helps, Thanks Sea Breeze

If your reading the display temp , your reading what the thermistors are telling the control board . NOT the actual temp inside . After closing the door , from the food that was already cold in the fridge , the coldness will keep the inside temp , the same temp as when you opened the door . The thermistors themselves will detect the warmness and send it to the board . A good way to try to put this acrsoo , is to put a thermometer between , say , 2 packages of salads . Wait a little while and open the door . Watch the display temp , then read the thermometer between the packages . The thermometer will stay the same , due to the coldness of the packages not changing . When you put food in the ref , the surrounding food will give off some of the coldness to the freshly installed food , thereby makeing it cold faster . After a while , this coldness will return to the thermistors and the display will start to drop in temp . Hard for me to put into words , except for , the temp reading will actaully be the same as the actual temp display , only when you FIRST open the door .

first defrost it by turning it off for 1\2 to 1 full day,put towels on the floor to catch the water,when a refridgerator gets frosted up it cant circulate the cold air,and if its one with the freezer on top then the cold air cant blow down into the refridgerator,check inside the refridgerator at the top where the thermostat cover is there will be a vent hole,it could have ice built up so much that its totally blocking the air flow.This usually happens when hot food is put in the refridgerator and causes steam,or the refridgerator runs too much caused by bad door seals,or the cooling fins on the back or bottom underneath plugged with dust and the freon gets too hot causing condensation inside the freezer which causes it to frost up,a plugged drain hole will back up water and freeze,the fan in the freezer may have stopped working,which is about a $60.00 part,and finally a bad defrost element (about a $40.00 part)which is a glass tube inside the freezer with a coiled up wire inside it that heats up at certain times to defrost any ice build up,(which is the last thing to check)

Andeb, couple of things you want to check. Is the fan in the freezer section running? Take the lower back panel off and see if the condensor fan is running as well as the compressor. As long as you tilted it only slightly I would think this is a fan or overload relay problem. Check the things I mentioned and post back...Catriver.