Schematics i have an orion cobalt 400 watt amp that i am trying to find the schematics for hooking up the amp i cannot find the remote line hook up

amp is in protect mode. check your wiring and make sure your sub is wired properly for ohms. dual 4 ohm in parallel = 2ohm. dual 4 in series is 8 ohms. dual 2 ohm parallel= 0.5 ohms and in series 4 ohms. check ground and power wires. make sure sub isnt blown. a blown sub WILL cause this on any amp.

Is your toggle hooked to ground? Hook your toggle switch to the battery and then the other end of that toggle the remote input on the amp.

Hello jandytaala,

The recommended power range for you T4510-04 is 112.5 to 225 watts RMS. So you need a monoblock amp within that range. You could go up to about 300 watts RMS, but watch the gain and don't try to get too much from a single 10" sub.

The Orion Cobalt shown here would be a good match and is only $139.99. For another $60, the Alpine MRP-M500 will output 300 watts into 4 ohms.

Hope this helps.

Hello sharky75,

That 1600 watt peak power figure for your subwoofer can't tell you what amp you need. You need to know the maximum RMS power the sub can handle. And you need to know the impedance (ohms) of the voice coil(s). JBL GT5 series subs have an RMS rating of 275 watts. The GTO series handles 300 watts. The Power series handles 400 watts. The GTi series handles 700 watts. Some are single voice coil, so the impedance is fixed. Others are dual voice coil allowing you to wire them for different impedance loads.

For maximum performance your amp should be able to provide at or near the same number of watts RMS into the lowest impedance at which the sub can be configured. For example, if your sub is the Power Series Model number P1224, it has dual 4ohm voice coils and can be wired to present either a 2ohm load (parallel) or an 8ohm load (series). You want to wire the voice coils in parallel for the 2ohm load and select an amp that outputs up to 400 watts RMS into 2ohms. The Orion Cobalt CO8001 is just such an amp. If you have one of the GTi Series subs, a better amp would be the JVC Arsenal KS-AR75 which outputs 700 watts into 2ohms.

Hope this helps.

Hello rivertoyz,

If your F250 has the stock radio, there are no preamp outputs, so you will need to use the speaker outputs. The best solution would be to wire a LOC (line output converter) to the rear channels and run RCA cables to the amp.

Speaker wire color code:

Left rear positive - Gray/Light Blue
Left rear negative - Tan/Yellow
Right rear positive - Orange/Red
Right rear negative - Brown/Pink

You'll need an amp wiring kit with 4gauge power and ground. Both the LOC and wiring kits are available at numerous online stores. The best service is from www.crutchfield.com. Another reputable online seller is www.sonicelectronix.com.

You did not say what subwoofer(s) you intend to use with the amp. If you want to stick with the Maxxsonics product, a pair of 10" Orion HP10D2's would be an excellent match. Wire each of the subs dual voice coils in series for 4ohms, then parallel them to the amp for a final load of 2ohms. Both of the linked retailers above sell the Orion's and many other brands as well. Just make sure that your sub selection has adequate power handling capability. At least 1000 watts RMS if you use a single sub and 500 watts RMS if you go with 2.

Hope this helps.

your only choice is to run the amplifier at a 4 ohm mono load - this will not reult in the amplifier making much power.
Positive on sub to Positive on amp.
Negative on sub to Negative on amp.
This is your only possibility.

Adding a second sub in the same fashion will result in a 2 ohm load, and your amplifier will run at its rated potential.

Thanks for using FixYa - a FixYa rating is appreciated for taking the time to answer your FREE question.

With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter probe on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle) and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red probe alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

To install the amp you need a amp wiring kit they range from $15 and up depends on how many watts u have.Once you have the wiring kit start with the ground wire it needs to be no longer then 24 inches long the shorter the better find a good ground in the trunk or where ever you want to install the amp make sure its metal to metal no plastic paint or any other debrie is in the way of the metal.If you can't find a paint free surface all you will need to do to fix this is sand off some of the paint and then ground the amp.The ground wire needs to be connected to the amp before any other wire once you have the ground connected then connect the battary wire make sure you have the right size inline fuse on the battary wire that also depends on the watts of the amp.once you have those 2 wires connected then u will need to pull the stereo out of the dash and hook up the remote wire to the power antanna wire if you have a factory car stereo and don't have a power antanna you can try one of these solutions 1st one Run the remote wire from the battary wire on the amp and use a toggle switch between the remote and battary wire or you can run the remote wire from the amp to the fuse box of the car and hook it up to a fuse that only works when the key is turned on.Once you have all this hooked up its time to hook up the subs/speakers on the amp it should indicate if its bridgable it will show lines from one positive and one negative and at the top of the lines it will say bridge but if not the just connect the speakers positive to positve and negative to negative.If it is a bridgeable amp i would only recommend hooking it up bridged if you are hook up subs if you are using 6x9's on the amp you don't need to bridge the amp.If u have any more ?'s just ask i can help with this i've done this alot.

I cant really assist in this matter but I can let you know that I have a system in my 2006 Chevy Cobalt and that I have an aftermarket cd player installed. I had to pay $130 for a special adapter for it to be wired into the system because GM's newest idea of installing the stereo and airbags on the same wire scheme, is kind of a dumb idea.

you might need to see what your volts are if there 14.4 at the amp thats good but see what they drop to ....