The only thing that would cause what you encountered is the starting capacitor of the compressor - its a paper film one and , in reasonable limits, it's supposed to heal itself when it gets shorted: if the short isn't very large the heat caused by the current will superficially melt the metal of the plates at the contact point, breaking it. If the capacitor is then left to rest the insulation will also regenerate, effectively healing the short.
In your case the short has been more than what the capacitor could fix so it happened again, this time for good. And unfortunately the spark it caused has created a surge large enough to damage the processor on the control board.
Both the capacitor and the control board will have to be replaced.
The capacitor is easy to access and replace : at the rear of the unit, bolted on the compressor;and it only costs $20. The control board is a totally different problem: not only that it's very difficult to access, but it's really expensive (about $150) and hard to find - if you have never done stuff like that before a repairman is mandatory and that will cost you another $300. In total it will cost you up to $500 - you should decide if the fridge is worth so much money, i personally think it doesn't.
Yes, if you don't have a multimeter to check the value or status of the capacitor (it will be much smaller or shorted) then you replace it. The defrost heater is just a resistance that is powered by the control board to accelerate the deicing of the evaporator - not a problem in your case: if it would have been the fridge would have tripped the breaker the moment the deicing process would have started . So no breaker tripped during deicing = no heater problem.
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Large appliances don't work well with RCD switches. They just draw too much power. Although your RCD could be worn out. I would try pluging it into a standard socket or a new RCD if you wish.
There are two posible causes fot the trip of the RCD. The reason for the RCD to be trips off it means that a power cable is connected with a metalic part or earting of the fridge.
So the first is the compressor if it burn out but since in your case it is working for sometime then this less possible. But it have a small chance that the starting kid to be the problem.
The second case is when the defrost starts the defrost heating element is conected in series with the defrost thermostat and if the element or thermostat it have been burn out that one reason why the RCD can be trip off.
Yoy can use this link which will help some more
http://www.youtube.com/user/SamsungFridgeFreezer
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Is it a fix that can be carried out by non specialist - i.e. myself? What parts would you recommend? Interested to know if it is worth repairing / or better to replace with new fridge/freezer?
So in short I can replace the capacitor first - see how it goes, and if it doesn't work think about trading in for new one.
Some forums talk about a defrost heater to be replaced - whats your thoughts on that one?
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