I've been trying to get a set of AR3 Hi rez Sunfire amp powered subwoofer speakers fixed.
One of them blows the fuse on my amp and both of them no longer have the STANDBY power feature, leaving the amplifers on all the time.
I can't find anyone with a schematic for the AR Sunfire amplifier or a parts source.
I've tried to contact Acoustic Research, Recoton, Thomson as well as several amplifier and speaker repair facilities in Florida with no luck.
Any suggestions or help would be appreciated.
I had the same exact issue with my AR1s. Found ABTechServices.com that was able to repair it for about $187.50 with return shipping included. Apparently there were a couple leaky caps and some bad resistors. My guess is that when Recoton built these amps, based on Bob Carver's Sunfire technology, they used defective capacitors. These, in turn are probably blowing the resistors and possibly some of the other components.
It's not a solution but I have the same problem. I found two transistors shorted in the subwoofer amp, a 2SC3281 and an IRF640. I replaced them but there is still a large dc offset in the output, about 10.5 volts. Without a schematic I'm kind of just fishing.
Just wondering if you were able to get any more info on this problem. My house got hit by one of Orlando's famous lighting storms a few weeks ago and along with about $1,000 worth of other equipment, both of my AR5's took a hit. They blow the 5 amp fuse immediately when powered on. So now I'm looking for some help with these as well.
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Are you blowing fuses in the receiver/amp or speakers? Without knowing what device you're referring to, I would guess that you have a problem with your speakers not having enough power handling capability for the amp that's driving them (which would blow your speaker fuse) OR (if you're blowing receiver/amp fuses) too many speakers wired in parallel showing your receiver/amp far less than the 8 ohms or even 4 ohms impedance that it is rated for. For example, two four-ohm speakers wired in parallel shows a 2-ohm load to the receiver/amp. Not many consumer devices have the capability to load down to 2 ohms.
I have a suggestion that you can try. If the unit is no longer turning on and you're sure the electrical outlet is good (by plugging in another device) and the hand-held control panel is on, as well as the switch at the base of the subwoofer, then try replacing the fuse. The subwoofer on this model has a fuse near where the power cord enters the subwoofer. There is a slotted screwdriver slot on the fuse cover. Using a flat-head screwdriver (or your thumbnail), turn the cover about a 1/4 to a 1/2 a turn and the fuse should pop out. Keep the cover. Replace the fuse with a 4 amp, 125V (or higher) fuse that is a slow-blow fuse. There are fast blow (or fast acting) and slow blow (or slow acting) fuses. You can't replace one for the other. You should be able to find a fuse at Radio Shack. If a new fuse doesn't get your system working again, then something else is broken. Good luck.
Try pulling the power from the unit for a few minutes, the reconnect. Make sure you've got the surround settings correct. If that doesn't do it, you've likely popped the amp or the amp's power supply in the sub box.
There are a few things going wrong here possibly. Its hard to tell without being able to physically troubleshoot, but here's my guess: blown/no fuse. If your amp's power wire is of top quality, you should have a fuse about 4 or 5 inches up from the battery terminal. If this fuse is blown, no juice will flow through to the amp. If this fuse keeps blowing you have a problem and need to get it fixed professionally or you could risk setting something on fire.
Otherwise, check the amp itself for blown fuses, loose power, ground, or remote wires. Last but not least, be sure that you have set your subwoofer output in your headunit setting menu to ON! =]
Well, so far so good. I reinstalled the newly repaired amp and fired it up and so far, so good. Ran it through about an hour of fairly intense break-in tracks and then ran it through about 2 dozen power up and down cycles to try to get it to fail (better now than a month from now and have to fight them on backing it up).