Last fall i was listening to my speakers and all of a sudden they shut off. The safety light came on the amp. The have not worked sense then. The speakers still work, its just the amp and im totally clueless about what is wrong. The amp is hooked up to two rockferd 15s. The amp was working for awhile before this happened.
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Re: spl amp 2400 watts
Do you know how to trouble shoot solid state devices??? if so then what you need to do is disconnect the collector if its a transistor output device or the b+ leg if its an Ic output device and then measure the ohms between the emitter and the collector or on an ic device the B+ leg to the outpot leg. If its shorted Your gonna need a schematic most likly to trace the path of the short.. if you dont understand this then you will need to take it to a repair shop and let them do the repair as you may not be up to a componet level type repair.. BUT if you are please get the schematic diagram and post it attention to me and i will be more then happy to assist you with this repair. Good luck
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You can do that but your subs will have to be monsters or you will blow them out as bridged mode will drive 2400 watts RMS into 4 ohms. Many speakers are rated in peak or program power... these are FAKE specifications. with this amp in bridged mode each of two identical speakers would have to be rated at 2400 watts program or about 3600 watts peak each to survive... When rating speakers and amps ALWAYS compare RMS values... and for safety use an amp of 80% of the RMS rating of the connected speaker or speaker system.
The 600 watt rating is FAKE like most of our advertising and will be either 600 watts PEAK or 600 watts PROGRAM. If it is Peak, use an amplifier with no more than 100 watts a side RMS... If it is program rating use an amp with no more than 150 watts a side RMS but that is pushing it for speaker safety. Also pay attention to the spec of the amp as to what it will output at the impedance of the speakers. I read the spec on the speakers... they are rated 150 watts RMS, NOT 600 watts... Use an amp rated at 150 watts RMS MAXIMUM at 4 ohms per side. Also don't turn up the bass excessively or you be buying new speakers. Twelve inch speakers would be adequate for a 20 by 20 room at SAFE listening levels. If you want driving bass, you need to get an 18 inch subwoofer.
If you have two subs to connect, place the speakers next to each other face down, you will notice that the connection points run in sequence +- and +-. Now connect the - (negative) from the one speaker, to the + (positive) of the other speaker. Now connect the open + from the one speaker and the open - from the other speaker to your amp.
If you have only one speaker it should be bridgeson your amp.
Your amp should have a bridging indication. On the connection points of each channel on the the amp, you should see a mark pointing to the first - and the last +. That will be your bridge
Not knowing what you have the SPL-620 driving or knowing how you have it wired, it's rather difficult to determine if it's wired "wrong".
I show the SPL DK2-620 as being a 2-channel amp with 150 watts output at 4 ohms, or 180 watts at 2 ohms. Even if the power is somewhat overrated, it should provide more than enough power for a set of standard 2-way or 3-way speakers, or component speakers with a separate crossover.
Powering one or more subs is another thing. You would get sound, but the subs would not be very loud. In bridged mode, the amp is only stable to 4 ohms. So if you are trying to power 2 4-ohm subs, the best connection would be 1 sub connected to each channel. If you are powering only 1 sub, then the bridged connection would be best.
Hope this helps. If it does, please rate as "FixYa".
The 230 watt amp is a little small for your subs. They'll work, but if you are looking for max SPL, you won't get it. To push those Audiobahn's to their potential pavement shaking max, I would recommend an amp in the range of 500-600 rms (2-channel bridged) or 1000 watts rms monoblock.
If what you're telling me is correct you're trying to drive a stereo sub -woofer with a mono amplifier. If so, that could be a bad situation for the amp, if the voice coils are not wired together correctly. Before we go too far, I have some questions I need answered. 1. Is the MA unit an M1889i? 2. Do you have the 4 terminals of sub-woofer tied together. For example the 2 positive terminals are tied together & the 2 negative terminals are tied together? 3.How do you supply 12VDC to the amp?
While I'm waiting to hear back from you, I'll try to draw a schematic (wiring diagram) of the way it should be wired for your particular setup that I'll send to you.
Disconnect the speaker wires from the amplifier and see if it still goes into protection mode. If it still goes into protect with the speakers disconnected, there's a problem with the amp; if not, you may have a blown speaker or a shorted speaker wire.