Question about Frigidaire Ovens
Posted by Anonymous on
SOURCE: Jenn-Air w156 Single Wall Oven Problem
Most likely its the EOC (electronic oven control), it needs to be replaced. If you self cleaned the oven a lot the very high heat generated fatigues computers in modern ovens.
Posted on Sep 28, 2007
SOURCE: OLD GE Wall Oven doesn't heat properly
On these older ovens ther is usually always 120 volts on the elements at all times.
If you check across the element ends with it in bake you should read 240V. If not, there is a problem with the control. With the voltage drop you describe, it sounds like you are losing power on one line of voltage coming to the element.
Post back to let me know what you find out or if you have any questions.
Posted on Nov 24, 2007
SOURCE: Amana Convection oven not controlling temp
I have just checked the baking guide in the manual and have found that it may not be us after all. (Maybe this is why they telll us to read the whole manual. Well, I never have) According to the cooking time for Baking, the range is very extensive. For example, an angel cake at 350 could take from 28-50 minutes, buscuits at 375-400 could take 8-16 minutes, layer cakes at 350-375 could take 25-40 minutes, pound cakes at 325-350 could take 45-70 minutes and fresh pies at 400-450 could take 35-60 minutes. Basically, the baking directions on the box means absolutely nothing to use Amana oven owners. We have no choice but to cook our food or baked goods until they are cooked, whenever that may be. :) Linda
Posted on Dec 30, 2007
SOURCE: Tried to use broil or bake on my Kenmore electic oven model 40881, press broil and after a few seconds a code of F4 comes on the screen and the tone sounds, I hit cancel and tone goes off. Can't use
I used what Charlie recommended ...” post-it” as insulation
And works PERFECTLY….
I have a Kenmore oven Clock…( built in the wall)
Thanks Charlie…you are a Genius!!!!
Posted on Aug 02, 2008
SOURCE: GE JKP27 F2 error
The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site.
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws.
Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement.
The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven.
If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock.
You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board.
On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced.
If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors.
Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
Posted on Jun 28, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Hello kimberlymaso - If you are referring to the bake element, but the broil element works then you would need to just replace the bake element. If both your bake and broil element does not work, then there might be a problem with the wiring communication. However, if the oven does not bake and/or broil but the cook top works; contact a professional to diagnose the EOC (electronic oven control).
If you are referring to the bake element, but the broil element works then you would need to just replace the bake element. If both your bake and broil element does not work, then there might be a problem with the wiring communication. However, if the oven does not bake and/or broil but the cook top works, contact a professional to have the EOC (electronic oven control) diagnosed.
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