I recently got a JL 300 amp and at first the sub stopped working, then it came back on during the song I was playing. Later on it shut off all together. I don't know what the problem is..

This happens to me all the time during the warm months. The problem is likely that the amplifier is overheating because of location. If not properly ventilated, the amplifier will shut off before damage occurs. Is it located under a seat or other area where sufficient air flow is lacking? I solved this problem by moving my amplifier from under a seat to the trunk area.

Hello zadiel89,

Out-of-warranty JL Audio products are normally repaired through JL's authorized dealer network.

To locate your nearest JL dealer, enter your zip code in the box on this page, select "radius" from the drop down, and click "find".

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/dealerfind.php

You can email JL directly at: [email protected]

Hope this helps.

Hello drsubhakar26,

JL W6's will perform well with from 150-600 watts RMS. W7's with from 150-500 watts. Less expensive Alpine Type R's work OK with from 200-500 watts RMS. Either of the brands will sound good. None of them will perform to their full potential with 300 watts RMS. Powering any sub with a 2-channel amp is a compromise. A monoblock is more efficient.

Hope this helps.

You should definitely upgrade the power wire to the sub amp to 4 gauge -absolutely your choking your amp its starving for current-poor thing is starving !!!!!!!

Are you sure you don't have any shorted wiring or defective speakers?

Again as I have stated in my other answer to you. You can not wire two SVC 2 ohm subs to acheive a 2 ohm load. more than likely you are running your amp at 1 ohm mono and this is why it is clipping and shutting off.

It sounds like you have either a dead battery or a bad connection in the power supply line from the battery. A blown fuse can cause the voltage to drop. This is fairly common with glass fuses in fully enclosed fuse holders. You need to use a multimeter to see where the voltage drops between the battery and the amp.

Sounds like the output transistors on the amp are blown. Were you slammin when it stopped or how did you find out it stopped working. It could be the sub failed then caused the ap to go which is why you get a little something from the JL.

I had the same amp! It is the JL 300/4 and one of the chanels came in really fuzzy. It sounded as if the the wires were touching during my installation. I called JL and a JL authorized dealer it would have costed me 190 dollars total to get the amp fixed. Instead I opened up the amp to see if anything looked out of the ordinary. When you open the amp, see if the green fuse looking things are aligned. If they are not aligned then straighten them out. I think they had gotten out of place from being dropped becaue I baught my amp used. My amp works perfectly now!

This is no joke man, I did this just yesterday and was really excited to save 190 bucks. I'm not a technical guy or anything all I know is the green things are located behind the out puts inside the amp.

if you unhook the rca's does it persist?