I mistakenly used a ps of higher power than the one supplied....unit ran for 25 mins or so then gave up.....what damage could be caused and how to fix it?,,a friend was able to retrieve info from drive but i would like to repair it if possible
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Re: wrong ps for treo
Your first gonna need a schematic unless a factory service tech can tell ya if theres a zener diode on the power input or where the internal regulator is located. A zener diode is like a voltage stopper and wont let the voltage go any higher tyhen what the diodes ratings for and can take some punishment but will over heat and fail. Hopfully you didnt burn up any PC traces Good Luck
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A standard ATX PS won't fit in your low profile case. The plug types can be different too. Usually there's a schematic with a PS that describes the wire color of each voltage. So you could conceivably shove the pins out of one PS plugs and insert them into the different plug, or solder the wires to the correct pins, and leave the PS outside of the case.
Hello,
It is very important to check the power output produced by the ac adapter. Make sure that the output voltage and ampere of the new power supply is the same with the original power supply provided with the laptop. The new power supply you purchased may be producing lower or higher ampere than the required power to turn on the unit and charge the battery.
I suggest to purchase ASUS Eee recommended power supply or ac adapter for your laptop before it gets damage by incorrect power voltage or ampere used.
Generally, if you are using the manufactures fuse rating you can use a slightly higher rating and it will resolve the blowing fuses. Fuses supply resistance, if there isn't enough resistance you'll fry the system board in the amplifier. But if you have 25 amp fuses installed, install 30 amp, if you have 30 install 35 amp, 35 install 40. Anything higher will damage the amp.
Hope this helps.
A rare chance, something may be internally wrong with the amp and shorting it out which will blow the fuse.
Use the incorrect wiring of subs to the amp, you'll blow fuses and damage the amp from it turning off consistently. The amp should be running at 2 ohm stereo stable or 4 ohm mono stable.
Very few amps are designed to run at 1 ohm or less. Not to mention the subs can't handle it.
TAKE THE OLD ONE OUT OF THE MACHINE, UNPLUG ALL CONNECTOR AND LABEL THEM EACH. TAKE IT TO ANY COMPUTER STORE THEY SHOULD BE ABLE TO HELP YOU
IT IS 4 SCREWS PHILLIPS TYPE, POWER SWITCH
BUT THE MIN. POWER SUPPLY SHOULD BE AT LEAST 250WATTS
AND HIGHER IF YOU ARE GAMER, GRAPHICS NUT, ALOT OFF
EXTRA GEAR,
I have a solution for you, your mobile service provider, ie Vodafone, should have a code to extend the length of the ringer before it will divert to voicemail.
For anyone using Vodafone it is:-
**61*+447836121121*10*25#
The last two digits are the amount of seconds you want to have, above is set to 25 seconds.
I have heard on the 'grapevine' that using the full 30 seconds may make a difference to how you are billed, that is a higher charge in the incremental way you are billed. So 25 seconds should be the maximum duration.
Depending on the system and the supplied adaptor type, substituting another can result in damage.
Some adaptors (nearly all 'universal' or adjustable types) are very primative and have little or no regulation meaning that the output set and the output you actually get are highly load dependent and the actual output voltage can be 50% higher than set.
Most laptops use a somewhat better adaptor (more stable output) and have internal final regulation to service the unit's needs and charge the battery pack at the same time.
Using the wrong adaptor can seriously damage the unit's internal regulator and you may have already done that even though the stated voltage is only 3V or some 25% higher.
If the laptop no longer boots, you may have some expensive repairs ahead.
Yes you can replace the old defective power supply with the new atx but the problem is the size. It the size it fit to your computer nothing to worry because power supply now is almost the same output only the wattages changes.
go back to where you did this ...
"after leaving the power on for some time (>30 min.) I tried un plugging the AC cord and immediately plugged it in and got POST and BIOS setup and a good bood to a known good hard drive. Left it on for 3 days running AutoCAD, ran reliably."...
do that again, but this time, leave the pc on and turn it off using the hibernate feature (must enable it first) as a test of potential faults.
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