There are a few things you can look at. Check to make sure you power is at a constant 12 volts. Usually a dip in voltage will set off a protection mode, but it protection is malfunctioning, this may be occuring. You also may need a larger guage wire for power and ground, depending on how many amps your amplifier is drawing. You subwoofer may be the problem too. Is it a dual 4 ohm, or dual 2 ohm? If it's dual 2 ohm and your amp isnt' one ohm stable, this could be causing the amp to overload. From your description it sounds like the amp is "clipping", so my gut tells me it's more of a power problem. Recheck all your wiring. If you have a multimeter to check your power, use it. Good luck.
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That makes sense. I talked with another guy and he told me it was because I don't have enough electricity going to the amp. Its available, just not fast enough. He said I need a capacitor. So I purchased one and we will see how it turns out once I get it installed. Does that sound logical? What do you think? The AMP and SUB info is as follows. And the SUB only has two terminals.
SUB:
Pioneer TS-SW3001S4
12" Single 4 ohm Shallow-Mount Subwoofer
• 12" Single 4 Ohm Shallow Mount Subwoofer
• Power Handling:
o Peak: 1500 watts
o RMS: 400 watts
• Impedance: Single 4 Ohm
• Double woofer cone design
• Air suspension control system
• Interlaced Basalt/Carbon fiber reinforced IMPP woofer cone
• 3-Layer fiber woven radial woofer surround with m-shape cross-section
• Cast aluminum basket with fin-shaped design
• Phenol resin coated glass cloth voice coil bobbin
• Projected pole yoke with vented pole
• 6 Layer aluminum voice coil
• Strontium magnet construction
• Silver spring compression wire terminals
• Frequency response: 20-230 Hz
• Sensitivity: 93 dB
AMP:
Boss NX1800.1
1800W Max, Onyx Series Monoblock MOSFET Amplifier with Remote Level Control
• Onyx Series Monoblock Car Amplifier
• RMS Power Rating:
o 4 ohms: 900 watts x 1 chan.
• Max Power Rating:
o 2 ohms: 1800 watts x 1 chan.
• MOSFET PWM Power supply
• Remote subwoofer level control
• LED power and protection indicators
• Variable 0 to +18dB Bass boost
• Thermal and speaker short protection
• Soft turn-on circuit
• Variable gain controls
• Line and speaker level inputs
• Input sensitivity selector
• Heavy duty aluminum alloy heatsink
• Chrome RCA level inputs
• Chrome screw terminals
• Variable low-pass filter
• Dimensions: 11-3/4"L x 10"W x 2-3/16"H
• 4-gauge power and ground wiring is required for installation. Contact us for information regarding a discount on select amplifier kits when purchased together with this amplifier.
Capacitors are kind of a cheap trick to get a little power, it's basically just a little battery. If you are serious about getting power, you could do the big 3 upgrade. (you can find a video of how to do it on youtube). I am an MECP certified installer and I don't recommend capacitors to anyone, that's not to say that they don't have their place. But seriously, your amplifier should not be pulling that much draw. If you use a 4 guage kit, you should be good. Also, make sure you tuned your amp. You should NEVER go above 3/4 on your gain. If you do, you experience the problems you are having with the amp clipping. Alway use an amp that is more powerful than you need, that way the power will be clean and if you have a "peak" power draw, it's not going to hesitate. If you are going to use a capacitor, get a good one. Digital caps are better than just standard. Hope this helps, and good luck
Ok, that makes sense. Thanks. So with the amp and sub I listed, is that a good match or do I need a more powerful amp? In your opinion. Because I have another car that has two 10" subs and a less powerfull amp with a smaller peak and rms, and its louder than this single 12". Kind of a problem in my book :P I want it to be louder cause the sub is capable of more and I only have the gain at 45%. I was thinking it could be an issue of preamp output from the head unit too though cause the pioneer head unit I have doesn't have many options for sub output. It doesn't have any level controls or bass options for a sub. So I was curious if it couldn't be something with that too?
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Ok, that makes sense. Thanks. So with the amp and sub I listed, is that a good match or do I need a more powerful amp? In your opinion. Because I have another car that has two 10" subs and a less powerfull amp with a smaller peak and rms, and its louder than this single 12". Kind of a problem in my book :P I want it to be louder cause the sub is capable of more and I only have the gain at 45%. I was thinking it could be an issue of preamp output from the head unit too though cause the pioneer head unit I have doesn't have many options for sub output. It doesn't have any level controls or bass options for a sub. So I was curious if it couldn't be something with that too?
Ok, that makes sense. Thanks. So with the amp and sub I listed, is that a good match or do I need a more powerful amp? In your opinion. Because I have another car that has two 10" subs and a less powerfull amp with a smaller peak and rms, and its louder than this single 12". Kind of a problem in my book :P I want it to be louder cause the sub is capable of more and I only have the gain at 45%. I was thinking it could be an issue of preamp output from the head unit too though cause the pioneer head unit I have doesn't have many options for sub output. It doesn't have any level controls or bass options for a sub. So I was curious if it couldn't be something with that too?
I put the capacitor in and the problem was still occuring. So I checked my ground connection just breifly by pressing the cable tighter to the car with my hand. It practically cleared up all the thumping sound. I tried regrounding it in another place, but had the same result. I ended up using 2" of exposed cable and bolting it to the car. The ground now works great and I'm able to turn my amp up more. I have a sick system now. Thank you!
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