Question about Kitchen Ranges
SOURCE: generac generator on auto runs
Hi and welcome to FixYa I am Kelly. Your red LED is telling you that it was 1. overloaded. 2. has low voltage 3. overheated or 4. short in the powered circuit.
OVERLOAD LED (red): Lights up if the generator experiences
a load greater than the rated output, low voltage, overheats or
the powered circuit experiences a short. The output is stopped
even though the engine keeps running.
I do not know which of the 4 conditions caused your red light. If you have the read light with no load I would suspect low voltage from the generator / inverter. If it overheated you will also get the Red LED with no load.
Thanks for choosing FixYa.
Posted on Aug 30, 2010
Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.
you have a stuck control switch
I tried to help you. Please help me and Rate/Vote on my response, thanks and good luck
Posted on Dec 23, 2010
SOURCE: rotor won't turn due to
You do not say what type/model generator you have, so I will just give you some basics.
There is nothing wrong with the magnets. Their power did not change at all, their pwer never changes, except to degrade slightly over time (hundreds of years.)
The generator rotor is hitting the stator. In other words, the alignment of the rotor inside the generator is off center, making the rotor bind on the inside of the stator, resulting in a lock-up.
With the generator attached to the motor, remove the generator end, and slowly try to turn the engine over by hand. REMOVE THE PLUG WIRE FROM THE PLUG FIRST, so that the engine cannot start. Watch inside the generator, and discover why the generator rotor is not aligned. Pehaps the bearings were installed incorrectly, or the housing is installed incorrectly. Most generator engines have a tapered power-takeoff shaft, where the gen. shaft connects to it. Is this Bolt tightened to specifications? Is there some debris floating around in the gen. (such as a screw, or a pebble, or a nut) that would impede its movement?
Posted on Jun 19, 2011
SOURCE: I need to trobleshoot the
First, check to ensure that the pilot generator is fully bathed in the pilot flame. If it is not, that must be corrected first. Once the generator is fully bathed, it should put out at least 500 millivolts. New generators will easily exceed this level, but you want to see at least 500 mV. I have personally seen heaters continue to work properly with mV outputs as low as 400 mV, but spec calls for at least 500. If you are not getting 500 mV minimum, replace the pilot generator.
Testing the gas valve itself involves jumpering the valve such that the 500 mV from the pilot generator goes straight to the valve coil, bypassing all the components such as thermostat, high limits, pressure switch, etc. I generally recommend that homeowners avoid playing with the valve if they are not trained to work on gas appliances. It is one thing for a homeowner to do the simple repairs, like changing a pilot generator (which is a piece of cake for someone with even moderate skills). It is a completely different matter to play around with the valve if you don't really know what you are doing.
As a final point, unless the heater has some age to it, most millivolt gas heaters will have more issues in the components than in the valve or pilot generator. Even the pilot orifice is more likely to be a problem. I'm not saying that you don't have an issue with the valve or generator. I'm just saying they are less likely to be the problem and are always the last items I check on these heaters.
Posted on Jul 03, 2011
Tips for a great answer:
Nov 04, 2010 | Coleman Powermate Powermate 5000W...
Sep 12, 2010 | Coleman Powermate Powermate 5000W...
Jul 29, 2010 | Coleman Sport 1850 Generator
Mar 22, 2010 | Coleman 1850 Watts Generator Each...
Jan 29, 2010 | Coleman Powermate Premium Plus 6250W...
Jun 05, 2009 | Coleman 10' X 10' Sundome Tent 9160K101
Mar 11, 2009 | Coleman Sport 1850 Generator
Feb 27, 2009 | Coleman Powermate Subaru 5000W Portable...
999 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!