Left channel out

You can connect the CD player to the amplifier using a standard set of RCA cables (left and right channel / red & white connectors). Connect the CD output to an input on the amplifier (usually one designated for CD or possibly "Aux") Then select this input source in order on the Amplifier.

There would be no reason to connect the CD player to a Tuner. Not even sure a tuner whould have any inputs in order to connect a CD player.

Hello there.... Check your speaker wires and then if that doesn't do it? try replacing the fuses on the back of the amp.. make sure power is turned off and unplugged. If that doesn't work? Try one speaker at a time ... something is causing the system to short out. Hopefully it is not internally

unplug the receiver, Everything- speakers, input/outputs. The only cord to the device left should be the power cord.
Power up the receiver, set the tuner on a strong station. check sound quality with headphones only.
If that was ok, now pick one speaker to test all channels with. Follow the procedure above with the
speaker. check each output channel with the tuner as a source using the one speaker. Good Luck!

I think you mean Pioneer VSX-D409.

Since the two receivers are similar and capable of driving everything else in the room, I guess you want to treat one receiver like a basic amp, like for a passive subwoofer, right?

However, still guessing your intent...

The VSX is a basic 5-channel amp (5 x 100w) but only has digital multichannel inputs. It has optical and coaxial digital inputs and an optical digital output.

The Sherwood has coaxial and optical digital inputs and no digital output, but it has analog inputs, so it would be easier to selectively use any or all of its amplifiers, which are about the same as the Pioneer's (gotta read the fine print - Sherwood uses a 6-ohm load instead of 8-ohm to get the numbers).

Choose the one you like to use for the control (master). Run its Sub Out to the other receiver's AUX input using an RCA splitter to feed both input channels. Attach the sub to one set of front speaker terminals. Configure theat receiver for NO SUB so it won't steal LFE from theis channel. Designate the FRONT speakers as Large.

Setup would be tricky because you have to choose a volume setting on the slave amp and stick with it. It might get changed after you set the levels and negate the setup efforts. OTOH, you would have the flexibility to change it independently if desired.

My $.02... If subwoofer power is all you need, why not just get a nice Carver 2-channel amp on eBay (2x100w would suffice), bridge it to 200 watts and blow the house up, figuratively? Then you could redeploy or sell the unused receiver.

Have you tried isolating the problem to see what exactly the problem is? First I suggest disconnecting the left speaker from the system and test the speaker by it's self. If you have any technical knowledge and an ohm meter, you can connect an ohm meter to the two wires comming from the speaker and see if you get 8 ohms or less. You SHOULD see something in the neighborhood of 8 ohms of resistance if the speaker is good. If you're not a techy and want a simpler "go/no-go" test on the speaker, then take the two wires going into the back of the speaker and BRIEFLY touch them to the two terminals of a 9 volt battery. If the speaker is good, you will hear a "pop" in the speaker as the battery connects. Again, ONLY BRIEFLY touch them. DO NOT connect them to the battery and allow them to stay on for more than about a half second or so, else you run the risk of burning up the voice coil in your woofers.
If the left speaker passes the test, then let's look at the receiver unit. I am not familiar with this particular make and model, but I dare say it should have multiple inputs. Just to be extra certain that the speaker wasn't somehow the problem, go ahead and connect the right speaker to the left channel and let's test the left channel of the receiver. Try using the various inputs on the receiver (i.e. am/fm, CD in, AUX in, Video in, what ever it may have).. Does the left channel yield ANY sound at all under any conditions?
If I'm not mistaken, the system has a separate power amp and receiver unit. Try putting a signal into the aux inputs of the power amp it's self using an RCA cable. You can connect the other end of the RCA cable to most any other CD player, or you can usually touch your finger to the center conductor on the RCA cable and listen for a buzz or click in the left speaker output. If it doesn't give any sound, then the problem is most likely in your amplifier. If it does give you sound, then we need to look at the receiver.
Something else I just noticed about this particular unit you have, is that it uses a ribbon cable to connect the receiver to the amplifier unit. I would suggest that if the amplifier checks good, then try replacing this ribbon cable with another one. You may have to have one specially made, or you may be able to order one. I hope that helps.

if bose unit has built in amplifier .Then your sherwood would have to have a variable RCA output jacks in order to work with sub.Then bose audio input RCA cable would connect there.If bose unit does not have built in amp .Then you would connect sherwood left/right speaker outputs into bose left/right inputs .Then other bose speakers will connect to bose unit

its due to your player there is nothing wrong with fuse... don't crack the case...try this just connect M1 & M2 to the aux input of your home theater

The problem is the fact that the new receiver has no phono input. The phono input has an extra stage of amplification built in. Your receiver is working fine. You need to purchase a phono pre-amp. These run around $20. Connect the turntable to the preamp and the presmp output to any line level input on your new receiver and everything will work as expected.

Dan

Yes, don't worry it's a very common to touch wires. The problem is that it will have taken out the two output transistors or the IC. Depending on the type of them you might pick them up cheap or they might be expensive, it will be the same for it being repaired in a shop. The only way to tell would be to look at the numbers on the device(s) and google them, you should get an idea of what they will cost.

O1 is the OPTICAL input. C1 is the COAX input. Try pressing the DIGITAL INPUT button to cycle to the analog mode.