Toaster will only work if the lever is held down manually. have removed the printed circuit board (no problems obvious to the naked eye), does not appear that crumbs have caused the problem. electrical contacts that engage when lever down are conducting properly. Presume PCB is the problem but don't know which component(s). thanks.
On the PCB there is a black rectangular 14 pin chip (right hand side in photo) which is a programmable timer. There is a small metal plate attached to the slide. When you push the lever down, the slide is held down by an electro-magnet (copper coil covered with blue insulating tape in photo top right) which attracts and holds this metal plate. The solder holding the two terminals of this electro-magnet to the PCB was fractured in a circular fashion both sides. I re-soldered the joints but this did not fix the problem. I don't really have the skills yet to test the timer chip and other components on the PCB. Maybe time to do an introductory electronics course.On the PCB there is a black rectangular 14 pin chip (right hand side in photo) which is a programmable timer. There is a small metal plate attached to the slide. When you push the lever down, the slide is held down by an electro-magnet (copper coil covered with blue insulating tape in photo top right) which attracts and holds this metal plate. The solder holding the two terminals of this electro-magnet to the PCB was fractured in a circular fashion both sides. I re-soldered the joints but this did not fix the problem. I don't really have the skills yet to test the timer chip and other components on the PCB. Maybe time to do an introductory electronics course.
with power supplied to the PCB, I rotated the actuator about 45 degrees (as looking at photo) to close the circuit so that the toaster is producing heat in the elements. under these conditions, there was no voltage across the two terminals of the elctro-magnet i.e. I think it's not being energized to hold the slide down.with power supplied to the PCB, I rotated the actuator about 45 degrees (as looking at photo) to close the circuit so that the toaster is producing heat in the elements. under these conditions, there was no voltage across the two terminals of the elctro-magnet i.e. I think it's not being energized to hold the slide down.
the 45 degree rotation in the above comment is in an anti-clockwise direction (as looking at photo).the 45 degree rotation in the above comment is in an anti-clockwise direction (as looking at photo).
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I had a few shots at this. Taking it to bits was hard case. I didn't know it had a crumb tray until I went looking for the last 2 screws holding the base on. First I cleaned everything that moves, then thought it was the slider handle bottoming out, so I enlongated the slot a bit. Next I burnished all the contactors I could find.. limited success.. lastly I did as has been suggested, I resoldered the circuit board connections on the solenoid that holds the toast carriage down.. 100% success, works perfectly.
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Re:
Hi
sounds like the problem is the holding down mechanizem
clean the toaster well
find that spring which caches the lever down
you can find it on the external lever side
pretty small and simple thing
when you push down the external lever
the spring kick a little lever which holds the slide in place for heatup
only when you will hear a "click" then you'll know its in place
and then the electric cicuit will be close and engage the coils to heatup
good luck
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Just fixed my Breville CT20. Cleaned the contacts, there were no impeding crumbs so I tested again and still wouldn't stay locked. I finally replaced the 470uf 16v capacitor on the control board just below the electromagnet and wow, works like a brand new toaster! I got lucky, saving bits and pieces of old circuits sometimes pays off.
Be sure to unplug toaster first. While inverting your toaster, depress the toaster lever(s) and shake toaster to clear all bread crumbs. It can take up to several minutes of shaking to clear them completely, however, the key is to depress the toaster levers down at the same time. Also, remember to remove bread crumb trays and empty regularly, as the trays are too shallow and allow crumbs to build up quickly, thereby blocking the "locking mechanism" of the lever(s).
If after cleaning your toaster out thoroughly, the levers still won't remain depressed, try various outlets throughout your kitchen. Oftentimes, when one GFI (Ground Fault Indicator) trips, several outlets along the same circuit will also trip.
Also, there is a website called Manuals.com, which has a very good database of many manuals for various manufacturers and models of toasters, should all of the above efforts fail.
I did all of the above and fixed my toaster within five minutes. :- )
There are two printed circuit boards inside front of toaster - One PC board for each side. The circuit board on the side that won't latch down in the "toasting" position , is defective. Now, does anyone have access to a schematic for this toaster?
For what it might cost to fix it buy a better brand of toaster for about 10% of the cost of this horrible brand.
You'll notice their new ones are "smart" toasters with NO LEVER. You push a button and the electronics takes care of the rest (and blow up quickly.)
$15 to $25 at Walmart.. instead of $100 to $200.
No promises, but I had a similar problem with a Breville Clasic. Toasters these days use a solenoid (electromagnet) to hold down the toast carriage. This solenoid is usually soldered to the circuit board, and is reasonably big, i.e. 1/3 a cigarette pack.. on mine, because of repeated impact when the carriage is pushed down, one solder connection developed a haiirline fracture. This meant that most of the time it wouldn't stay down. I resoldered the connections and all ok.
I had the same problem. I opened up the toaster and found that the electromagnet that holds the plastic clip to keep the toaster down had a tiny crumb between the magnet and the metal plate. I cleaned the magnet and it is working fine again. We spent 6 months burning toast by holding it down with a chopstick wedged between the lever and finally took a shot before I went to buy a new one. Took me all of 15 minutes.
Just fixed my Breville CT20. Cleaned the contacts, there were no impeding crumbs so I tested again and still wouldn't stay locked. I finally replaced the 470uf 16v capacitor on the control board just below the electromagnet and wow, works like a brand new toaster! I got lucky, saving bits and pieces of old circuits sometimes pays off.
Please send a picture, I cannot tell were it goes unless I know what it looks like, your discription is very discriptive, but please send a picture to the following e-mail address:
Black & Decker T4050 OptiToast 4-Slice and it will not stay down and heat either. However you can hold it down and then it will heat. I apparently has an electromagnet that is supposed to hold it down and it's not working. Any Suggestions?
On the PCB there is a black rectangular 14 pin chip (right hand side in photo) which is a programmable timer. There is a small metal plate attached to the slide. When you push the lever down, the slide is held down by an electro-magnet (copper coil covered with blue insulating tape in photo top right) which attracts and holds this metal plate. The solder holding the two terminals of this electro-magnet to the PCB was fractured in a circular fashion both sides. I re-soldered the joints but this did not fix the problem. I don't really have the skills yet to test the timer chip and other components on the PCB. Maybe time to do an introductory electronics course.
with power supplied to the PCB, I rotated the actuator about 45 degrees (as looking at photo) to close the circuit so that the toaster is producing heat in the elements. under these conditions, there was no voltage across the two terminals of the elctro-magnet i.e. I think it's not being energized to hold the slide down.
the 45 degree rotation in the above comment is in an anti-clockwise direction (as looking at photo).
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