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Posted on Dec 09, 2017

We can put in the minutes and temp., then when we close the door the clock times down and the fan blows, but nothing cooks. Fridgidaire model cfmv156fmc. For a while if we put a piece of cardboard in by the door hinges, we could get the oven to work, but now even this won't help. Microwave is only 3 years old.

5 Related Answers

MicrowaveSvc

William Miller

  • 9179 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 21, 2008

SOURCE: inside the microwave the piece

Yes. This is the waveguide cover, and it needs to be there to protect the magnetron from damage.

The waveguide cover is usually about the size of a playing card and often held in place by a plastic rivet or held in a slotted opening.

It can be fragile, and the metal edges of the oven behind it can be sharp, so be careful!

If your waveguide cover is burned or damaged, it will need to be replaced.

You can often find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here or here.

Please write back with your brand and model number if you need further help.

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller, AS-EET
[email protected]
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

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Anonymous

  • 21 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 03, 2008

SOURCE: microwave light and timer work, but no cooking

IF IT TURNS ON AND SOUNDS LIKE ITS COOKING IT IS PROBABLY THE HEART OF THE MICROWAVE THE RADIATION PART WENT OUT IT IS MORE RECOMENDABLE TO REPLACE THE WHOLE MOCROWAVE

MicrowaveSvc

William Miller

  • 9179 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 15, 2008

SOURCE: microwave does not heat-light, fan, clock work-

When you lift up (and/or push down) on the door or handle as you try to start it, if it works or tries to work, then it's a door switch mount or door alignment issue.

Door switch or mount trouble is usually caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.

There are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.

The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.

Sometimes it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa:.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

If you don't find yours, or if you want to look at it without disassembling the oven, you can download it here.

If you only need a switch, you can order a universal type here for $5 postpaid.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

MicrowaveSvc

William Miller

  • 9179 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 25, 2008

SOURCE: Microwave Oven Does Not Start Cooking

This is usually caused by either a bad door switch or a loose door switch mount, which are pretty simple problems to fix.

Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside.

Door switch or mount trouble is usually caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.

There are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.

The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.

Sometimes it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.

One test that sometimes helps is to gently lift up (and/or push down) on the door or handle as you try to start it. If it works or tries to work, then it's a door switch mount or door alignment issue.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa:.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.

If you don't find yours, or if you want to look at it without disassembling the oven, you can download it here.

If yours is not shown at the parts site or manual site linked above, Please reply back with your brand and model number so we can help you.

If you only need a switch, you can order a universal type here for $5 postpaid.

If you think the problem is on the control panel, we repair these nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in most cases in about a week or so.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

MicrowaveSvc

William Miller

  • 9179 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 18, 2009

SOURCE: Set up Oster Microwave

No, that is the "waveguide cover".

It provides very important protection for the magnetron.


And always keep it clean according to your manual's instructions.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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Why does the fan keep running on a kenmore spacemaster 300?

Check those 3 micro switches in the door latch assembly. A bad microswitch can blow the main fuse. This usually ruins the microswitch.
tip

Troubleshooting Guide

  • Problem: Totally dead oven.
    Possible causes:
    1. No power to outlet (blown fuse or tripped breaker or GFCI).
    2. Blown main fuse - likely due to other problems.
    3. Open thermal protector or thermal fuse.
    4. Defective controller or its power supply.
    5. Clock needs to be set before other functions will operate (some models).

  • Problem: Totally dead oven after repair.
    Possible causes:
    1. Cabinet screws replaced in incorrect location (safety interlock not engaged).
    2. Any number of screwups. :)

  • Problem: No response to any buttons on touchpad.
    Possible causes:
    1. Door is not closed (some models).
    2. You waited to long (open and close door to wake it up).
    3. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    4. Defective interlock switches.
    5. Faulty controller or its power supply.
    6. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    7. Defective/damaged touchpad.

  • Problem: Oven runs when door is still open.
    Possible causes:
    1. Damaged interlock assembly.
    2. Cooling fans (only) running due to bad sensor or still warm.

  • Problem: Oven starts on its own as soon as door is closed.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective triac or relay.
    2. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    3. Defective controller or its power supply.
    4. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    5. Defective/damaged touchpad.

  • Problem: Oven works but display is blank.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective controller or its power supply.
    2. Broken display panel.
    3. Oven needs to be reset (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).

  • Problem: Whacked out controller or incorrect operation.
    Possible causes:
    1. Previous or multipart cook cycle not complete.
    2. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    3. Defective controller or its power supply.
    4. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    5. Defective/damaged touchpad.
    6. Defective sensor (particulalry covection/mirowave combos).

  • Problem: Erratic behavior.
    Possible causes:
    1. Previous or multipart cook cycle not complete.
    2. Bad connections in controller or microwave generator.
    3. Faulty relay - primary (or HV side, much less commonly used).
    4. Defective controller or its power supply.
    5. Bad contacts/connections on mechanical timers. Intermittent fuse.
    6. Power surge at start of cook cycle confusing controller.
    7. Microwave (RF) leakage into electronics bay.

  • Problem: Some keys on the touchpad do not function or perform the wrong action.
    Possible causes:
    1. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    2. Defective/damaged touchpad.
    3. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    4. Faulty controller.

  • Problem: Microwave oven does not respond to START button.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective START button.
    2. Faulty interlock switches.
    3. Door is not securely closed.
    4. Faulty controller.
    5. You waited too long - open and close door to wake it up!

  • Problem: No heat but otherwise normal operation.
    Possible causes:
    1. Blown fuse in HV transformer primary circuit or HV fuse (if used).
    2. Bad connections (particularly to magnetron filament).
    3. Open thermal protector or thermal fuse.
    4. Open HV capacitor, HV diode, HV transformer, or magnetron filament.
    5. Shorted HV diode, HV capacitor (will blow a fuse), or magnetron.
    6. Defective HV relay (not commonly used).

  • Problem: Timer and light work but no heat, cooling fan, or turntable rotation.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective (lower) door interlock switch or door not closing fully.
    2. Faulty relay or triac.

  • Problem: Fuse blows when closing or opening door:
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective door interlock switch(s).
    2. Interlock switch knocked out of position.
    3. Misaligned door.

  • Problem: Loud hum and/or burning smell when attempting to cook.
    Possible causes:
    1. Shorted HV diode, magnetron.
    2. Burnt carbonized food in or above oven chamber.
    3. Shorted winding in HV transformer.
    4. Frayed insulation on HV wiring.

  • Problem: Arcing in or above oven chamber.
    Possible causes:
    1. Burnt carbonized food deposits.
    2. Exposed sharp metal edges.

  • Problem: Fuse blows when initiating cook cycle.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective interlock switches or misaligned door.
    2. Shorted HV capacitor.
    3. Shorted HV diode.
    4. Shorted magnetron (probably won't blow main fuse but HV fuse if used).
    5. Defective triac.
    6. Old age or power surges.
    7. Defective HV transformer.
    8. Short in wiring due to vibration or poor manufacturing.

  • Problem: Fuse blows when microwave shuts off (during or at end of cook cycle).
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective triac (doesn't turn off properly).
    2. Defective relay.
    3. Shorting wires.

  • Problem: Oven heats on high setting regardless of power setting.
    Possible causes:
    1. Faulty primary relay or triac or HV relay (not commonly used).
    2. Faulty controller.

  • Problem: Oven immediately starts to cook when door is closed.
    Possible causes:
    1. Shorted relay or triac.
    2. Faulty controller.

  • Problem: Oven heats but power seems low or erratic.
    Possible causes:
    1. Low line voltage.
    2. Magnetron with low emission.
    3. Faulty controller or set for wrong mode.
    4. Stirrer (or turntable) not working.
    5. Intermittent connections to magnetron filament or elsewhere.
    6. Faulty primary relay or triac or HV relay (not commonly used).

  • Problem: Oven heats but shuts off randomly.
    Possible causes:
    1. Overheating due to blocked air vents or inoperative cooling fan.
    2. Overheating due to bad magnetron.
    3. Bad connections in controller or microwave generator.
    4. Faulty interlock switch or marginal door alignment.
    5. Faulty controller.
    6. Overheating due to extremely high line voltage.
    7. Stuck stirrer fan resulting hot spots detected by sensors.

  • Problem: Oven makes (possibly erratic) buzzing noise when heating.
    Possible causes:
    1. Fan blades hitting support or shroud.
    2. Vibrating sheet metal.
    3. Vibrating transformer laminations.
    4. Turntable or stirrer hitting some debris.

  • Problem: Oven light does not work.
    Possible causes:
    1. Burnt out bulb :-).
    2. Bad connections.

  • Problem: Fans or turntables that do not work.
    Possible causes:
    1. Gummed up lubrication or bad motor bearing(s).
    2. Loose or broken belt.
    3. Bad motor.
    4. Bad thermostat.
    5. Bad connections.
0helpful
1answer

I have a magic chef microwave that heats well but when the door is closed it hums and get really hot on top while not in use. Eventually it will stop working all together until it cools down then I can...

This one actually sounds like the unit is cooking when the door is closed without blowing the fuse as it is supposed to do. Unplug it from the wall and let it cool down, which it probably already is. Put a cup of cold water in it, close the door and plug it in for one minute. Unplug it from the wall and check the water. Did it heat up? I'd bet that it heated the water up. Sometimes the cook relay sticks closed and it stays in cook mode. This condition is supposed to blow the fuse but really rarely it doesn't. I've only seen this happen 3 or 4 times out of about 14,000 units I have looked at in my career.
It would need a new control PCB and new door switches and probably a new magnetron.
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My daughter's GE Model JVM2070SK02 failed to shut off this morning which ignited a muffin that was in the microwave. She stated that she had been having problems with it that that required unplugging the...

It sounds like a cook relay stuck closed and this is why it continued to cook. When the door was opened it should have blown the monitor fuse (which is how it is designed to for safety) so that it cannot cook when the door is open. Or, a cavity temp fuse was blown due to the fire inside. Also a safety feature.
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Mine is a similar problem - light and fan BOTH stay on when the cooking/heating finishes! The door remains closed and the food/beverage cooks. However, when it's finished the light remains on and the

There are a number of interlock switches that the oven door activates when closed, sometimes one becomes defective causing the main fuse to blow in the microwave or continue to run when time is up.
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My new Haier microwave isn't working! I just plugged it in for the first time, and set the clock on it. Then I tried to turn it on. No matter what cook time I enter, and then press start/30 sec., nothing...

When it times down but doesnt heat it is typically a problem with the door switches, especially one you just bought, may have been from shipping . A switch or connection may have been disodged when being shipped to you. Most machines have something like 4-5 wswitches, If 1 doesnt report right it will stiop the unit from running. But since some of them are closed it will accept the programing and try to operate. So a lot of times you get fan running and tray turning but no power to the secondary circuits. You will need to find out who does warranty for them or return it where you bought it as a defective unit.
2helpful
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I have a F6 error on my Kitchenaid microwave, model number KHMS155LSS. I unplugged it for 5 minutes. Nothing changed. I closed the circuit breaker for 5 minutes. Nothing changed. If I plug it in, it...

F6 on these models means that the cook relay on the control circuit board is shorted, and it is cooking anytime the door is closed.

We regularly repair such control units for customers nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid with a one-year guarantee.

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

If you prefer, you can buy a new circuit board (part number 8169733 for $150.27) from the Pros
here.

They're our favorite supplier.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
0helpful
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Our GE PROFILE JVM3670SK02 microwave stopped working. When you turn it on it only works for approx 30 sec and shuts off and the clock works but doesn't hold real time. Do you know what I need to do?

I have the same model and my problem is that after I cook something and clsoe the door, the microwave stays on, carosel not turning fan is blowing and light is on. Repairman told me that I am not closing the door correctly and that is the problem. He tshowed me how the door is not solid and you can close the bototm part of the door (latching it) but not the top and that is why it is staying on. I say it is a manufacturer's design defect. He charged me the $99.95 service charge. What a rip off.
1helpful
1answer

We have a frigidaire microwave and in the middle of cooking, the motor stopped. The clock and cook time continued to work, but no heat. We've tried using at half power, on defrost, etc. but nothing seems...

What you are saying the microwave stop work like heating,but but the clock counts down.If it is stop heating then there is a rest on or near the magtrogron.Once it cools down it start back heating.Open and close the door will reset power to the magtrogen{sorry about the spelling].Look for loose connector,or replace the click zon it should have a small red buttom on it.
1helpful
1answer

Does not cook - time counts down extremely fast

The first thing I would suggest is a hard reset. Unplug the unit for a minute or so. Then plug it back in, set the clock and try again.

If that doesn't work, leave it unplugged for about 5 minutes.

Then let us know if the hard reset does not fix it.
and please reply back with your brand and model number so we can help you.
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