1999 Chevrolet Tahoe Logo
Posted on Aug 25, 2011

I had a crankshaft sensor replaced because my truck would shake and rattle then cut off, but even after the replacement it is still doing the same thing. What else could be causing this shaking and jumping?

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  • Contributor 13 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 25, 2011
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Joined: Aug 25, 2011
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It sounds like it could be a misfire problem which most likely is coming from your spark plug wires. I would recommend replacing those. If the check engine light is on, you might have the code pulled from a place that will do it for free like Autozone. This will help narrow down the problem.

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How do I replace the crankshaft sensor on my 2001 Buick Regal? Both knocksensors?

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The Crankshaft Position System Variation Learn Procedure should be performed if any of the following conditions are true:
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Important: Set the vehicle parking brake and block the drive wheels when performing the crankshaft position system variation learn procedure in order to prevent personal injury. Release the throttle when the engine reaches the SECOND fuel cut off. Leaving the throttle open during the fuel cut-off will allow the engine to decel at an even rate. Once the learn procedure is completed, the PCM will return the engine control to the operator and the engine will respond to the throttle position.
Important: The scan tool crankshaft position system variation learn function will be inhibited if engine coolant temperature is less than 70?°C (158?°F). Allow the engine to warm to at least 70?°C (158?°F) before attempting the crankshaft position system variation learn procedure.
The scan tool crankshaft position system variation learn function will be inhibited if any powertrain DTCs other than DTC P1336 are set before or during the crankshaft position system variation learn procedure. Diagnose and repair any DTCs if set.
The crankshaft position system variation learn function will be inhibited if the PCM detects a malfunction involving the camshaft position signal circuit, the 3X reference circuit, or the 18X reference circuit.
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If the scan tool indicates a problem with the cam signal, refer to DTC P0341 .


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If the scan tool indicates a problem with the 3X crank signal, refer to DTC P1374 .


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Now why do you want to replace these thing's ? mite be able to save you some time an money. Do you have a check engine light lit ? Codes ? Does it start an run ?

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When the vehicle starts running it runs til the motor gets warm then starts to cut out then die , let it sit for a a couple of hours to cool down and it will star up and run til it gets warm again then...

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Normally, the hot no-start is caused by a faulty camshaft sensor or crankshaft sensor, usually the crankshaft sensor. Another possible cause for the cut out and die when hot can be a plugged catalytic converter or restricted exhaust. If your 11 year old car still has the original converter, I would suspect it (and some times the muffler) could be restricted due to the catalist inside the converter melting down from age and causing restriction. Sometimes particles will travel to the muffler restricting it also. A restricted exhaust will cause back pressure to the engine because exhaust gasses cannot escape at a rate suitable for the engine to run efficiently. Basically, it chokes your engine. Your exhaust can be checked with emmissions equiptment, but if you go under the car and see rust, dents in converter, or can shake it and hear anything rattling inside it, it is most likely faulty. A new exhaust sytem will make a world of difference on how your car runs, including less rough idle, more power and cleaner oil, less plug fouling and emissions sensor(s) fouling.
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