The F7 error code(light flashes 7 times) is a one of these, Flow meter failure. Flow meter defect. Water inlet valve defect or water inlet hose blocked.
So what you need to check is if the correct water level is in the tub,to check that start d/w let it fill and once you longer hear water entering,open door and the water should be level or just above the heat element, if not enough water first check water pressure to inlet valve,if pressure is good replace the water inlet valve part # 8531671 it could be picked up from your local appliance parts store,or online at;
repairclinic.com
searspartsdirect.com
apwagner.com
apdepot.com
midwestapplianceparts.com
The solutions was to start the dishwasher and check how much water is in it. The problem is that the dishwasher won't start at all it only flashes the green clean light.
so please tell me exactly where in your question it said ANYTHING about not starting?? i told ya what the F7 error code was and what to check so that code doesnt return. Its not my fault for a poorly written question
The very first five words in the question are " my dishwasher (66517269400) won't turn on. I'm sorry if that wasn't clear.
To run the diagnostics test which will run and clear the codes so it will start push in this order HIGH TEMP WASH -HEATED DRY-HIGH TEMP WASH- HEATED DRY to radipidly progress the test so it will clear the codes push after starting the diagnostics test CANCEL/OFF (wait 5 seconds then push again till d/w is off) the code will be cleared and the d/w will start if the code returns check what i said before..PS on certain models the high temp wash may be labeled as power scrub so if it says that push POWER SCRUB-HEATED DRY POWER SCRUB-HEATED DRY do this suquence of buttones within 10 seconds
I've done the diagnostic and filled the tub. The water level is up to the bottom of the heating element. Is that enough? If so, then I think it's fixed. Thanks so much. No where online or in the manual could I find a way to reset the controls.
yes its enough water..as i wrote before it mentions the F7 is pertaining to the flow meter,,i searched the parts breakdow before posting my origanal answer and seen no listing for a flow meter on your model ( clothes washers use flow meters it a new one on me that d/w's use flow meters) so i though the water valve would need to be replaced i'll dig a little deeper and see why its gives a flow meter code yet doesn;t have one and i'll get back to ya ..if not today tomorrow for sure with the water level as you have seen it i dont belive the valve would fix anything so DO NOT ORDER AND REPLACE IT. as far as turning off codes i have a service manual and that sort stuff is never mentioned in the user's manual
Hello again,
It took a little research and some help from a coworker but i found where the flowmeter is,if your still having trouble and get the F7 code again this part#W10195536 is the part on the left wall of the tub where the water enters the tub,the flowmeter is built into that part. If ya get the F7 again replace that part. To replace that part the dishwasher needs to be disconnected and pulled out of the cabinet,their is a round nut inside the tub on left side unscrew that nut pull d/w from countertop and replace that part,it will have a wire plug on it thats where the flowmeter is tells the control how much water has entered the tub. Again the part# is W10195536 you could go to repairclinic.com and enter that part# and get a look see what it looks like
oldTech2332, Since you were the only guru who correctly diagnosed my dishwasher, i wonder if you know anything about Kenmore double ovens? My 911.47649100 control panel is dead. The clock still works and the breakers are fine, but nothing on the electronic screen. Any way to diagnose that or should I just replace the panel? Thanks.
Hey sorry i didnt see this for a day or i would have gotta back to ya sooner. If by saying your control panel is dead ya mean that when pushing a button to select a paticular function that function wont work it very well could be the touchpad that is intergrated into that control panel. You could try cleaning the end of the ribbon cable of the touchpad where it fits into the control board by using a eraser (like the one on the end of a pencil) and clean the connection...if it doesnt work and still doesnt respond teh control panel would need to be replaced. when looking at the parts breakdown it isnt specific what color the panel is so the part numbers are WB36T10483 for a white one,WB36T10484 for the Bisque color,or WB36T10485 for one thats black
Thanks. Yes all the functions show no response. I'll try the ribbon cable cleaning. Otherwise it is a new board. bet it ain't cheap!
no sad to say it is not inexpensive... i seen it less expensive at repairclinic.com ($250) at searspartsdirect it was over $400 also online ya can try apdepot.com apwagner.com partselect.com to see who is the least expensive
Gene, I cleaned the ribbon and the rest of the connections and voila it seemed to work ok. BUT, actually the temp isn't right. Fior example, when you set the oven to say 400 and the beep supposedly confirms that it is up to temp, it really isn't. If you then turn it off and immediately back on it shows an actual temp of only 287. That is confirmed by the fact that a dish that should cook at the 400 degrees in an hour actually takes two hours ( why? Because it is really at 287!) Is there a way to calibrate the temp and/or confirm the temp is what it is set for? Thanks as always.
Hi Lisa,
You can only calibrate it up to 35 degrees thats all the adjustment thats built in...the actual best way without a expensive electronic thermostat to check the tempature is in essence as you have...by knowing if something should take a hour and its takes 2 hours its low. the problems could either be with the control board or the temp sensor ,the way to determine which it is,is by measuring the ohms of the oven sensor at room temp. At room tempature the ohms rating should be between 1060-1100 ohms when using a multimeter set to ohms..if at room temp. the sensor does show between 1060-1100 ohms its good and the control will be the problem
The oven sensor is on the over cavity in the mid to upper left side its about 6 inches long and about as thick as coffee stir stick ...it could be removed from inside the oven since uts a wall oven
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Did the the reset, now dishwasher lights won't come on at all, after closing and opening door
Hi
If clean light is blinking then it may be an
issue with heater circuit, door switch or wash pump, please reset the power to
the dishwasher. After, 5 minutes check if you are still getting the same error.
If yes, then it is a water heating fault. To resolve this error try pressing
this reset sequence-- Heat Dry - Normal - Heat Dry - Normal or High Temp - Air
Dry - High Temp - Air Dry or Hi Temp Scrub, energy saver dry, Hi Temp Scrub,
energy saver dry or high temp wash-heated dry-high temp wash-heated dry. Now let the unit run for 2-3 minutes and then you press
the Cancel/Drain button and allow it to completely drain and reset. If this
doesn't work then it's an issue with the wash pump not pumping the water past
the heater efficiently or due to lack of water to heat. Please make sure that
heater is not open circuited and is heating the water efficiently. You'll have
to check the heater using a multimeter; the meter should read between 3000 to
3300 ohms (Use multimeter on Rx1 ohm setting). If heater is fine then make sure
water pressure is optimum and fill valve is working fine. Hope this helps...
Please post back if you need more information.
Daniel
Hi
If clean light is blinking 7 times then it may
be an issue with heater circuit, door switch or wash pump. If yes then please
reset the power to the dishwasher. After, 5 minutes check if you are still
getting the same error. If yes, then it is a water heating fault. To resolve
this error try pressing this reset sequence-- Heat Dry - Normal - Heat Dry -
Normal or High Temp - Air Dry - High Temp - Air Dry or Hi Temp Scrub, energy
saver dry, Hi Temp Scrub, energy saver dry. Now let the unit run for 2-3
minutes and then you press the Cancel/Drain button and allow it to completely
drain and reset. If this doesn't work then it's an issue with the wash pump not
pumping the water past the heater efficiently or due to lack of water to heat.
Please make sure that heater is not open circuited and is heating the water
efficiently. You'll have to check the heater using a multimeter; the meter
should read between 3000 to 3300 ohms (Use multimeter on Rx1 ohm setting). If
heater is fine then make sure water pressure is optimum and fill valve is
working fine. Hope this helps... Please post back if you need more
information.
Daniel
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oldTech2332, Since you are the only guru who correctly diagnosed my dishwasher problem, I thought I would see what you know about Kenmore double ovens? The control panel seems to be dead, yet the clock still works. looks like it is a different part? Any way to diagnose the problem, or do I have to just replace the panel? Thanks.
Gene, Ok on that kenmore oven problem, we replaced all 8 sensors ( cost about 80 bucks). Didn't help. With the oven set at 500 degrees, the oven temp gauge I bought varies from 280-370. Time to replace the board? Can't think of anything else? Thanks, Lisa and andy
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