I have a GE JRP24BOW4BB double oven. The cycle light for the bottom oven will not stay off when the lower oven is off. I noticed this about a week ago. When the oven is turned on, the bottom element will heat up and reach the desired temp and the cycle light will go off. If I turn the oven off and rotate the temp dial to Warm (WM) I hear a click, as if the dial has moved past a contact. The oven will cool down and at some point the cycle light comes back one. But the even will be cool. I would like to correct this indication problem - I'm concerned about getting complacent with erroneous indications and with the oven possible drawing some level of electricity (even if it is low). I've looked in the owner's manual but was not able to find any information that I could utilize to troubleshoot the problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

SOURCE: GE electric double oven

Colin, the TCO is located on the back of the oven. It will open L2 to the heating element in the event it is open. If this TC0 opens it will not show any error codes. This is for the 27 inch wall oven models only. Catriver...post back.

SOURCE: GE JKP26G Electric Oven Doesn't Maintain Temperature

Diagnosis= failed thermister (temp probe inside the oven cavity) The part number is WB23X5340 and it lists for ~$72.00 at your local appliance parts place.

Bad news is that you have to pull the oven out of the wall to do this repair.

Good news is that it's not difficult to do.

TURN THE POWER OFF AT THE BREAKER BEFORE YOU PROCEED! Otherwise you'd look like this...



Ready? OK!

All you need is;
1.) Phillips screwdriver
2.) 1/4" socket/nutdriver
3.) Ratchet if you don't have a nut driver
4.) 36 quart Igloo ice cooler (like what you'd take to the lake or the beach)
5.) Sturdy wire (smaller than a coat hanger, preferably)
6.) Flashlight

Did I mention TURN THE POWER OFF AT THE BREAKER BOX?

Now we're ready for surgery.

Open the oven door and look where the oven meets the wood. You'll see a couple of screws there... remove them. Now the oven is ready to pull.
Place your Igloo cooler under the oven. Slowly pull the oven from the cavity until you have it out and sitting on the cooler. (don't sweat it... the oven is light. maybe 75 pounds or so.)

Now that you have it out, open the oven door and remove the oven racks. Look inside (may need a flashlight) and locate the temp probe, there are 2 screws holding it in place. Remove those 2 screws and set them inside the oven cavity, you'll need them soon.

Now go to the back of the oven (slide it if necessary) and remove the back panel. (*Here's a tip... some of these GE units? All you have to do is remove one screw to access the temp probe, so look carefully... don't go nuts here. Sometimes the whole panel/panels DON'T have to come off)

You'll see the temp probe wires... they are 2 small white thermally insulated wires coming from the cavity to the wire harness in the back. Disconnect this harness and pull the old probe out from the front of the oven cavity.

OK... now to get the new probe installed... See that plastic thing on the end of the new probe? It's a pain to get through the cavity where you'll be plugging it into. It's best to have help. but it can be done alone (I've never had help, it's just harder)

Take the sturdy wire (from the tools list) and make a small hook at the end of it. Poke it through the hole that the old probe was stuck through. Now hook your new probe into the hook. Now go to the rear of the oven and gently (did I say gently?) pull it through to the back of the oven.

Now that you have it through, connect it to the harness. Now all you have to do is reinstall the rear panel/s and the oven. No biggy. Just take care not to scratch your wood trim... line it up before lifting and installing.

All in all about an hour's worth of work. I know it sounds like alot more but I could have done this in less time than it took me to type it.

Congrat's on your first major oven fix! Let us know how it turned out.

SOURCE: GE JTP 1580W288 Set oven to Bake, switches to broil at bake temp

The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site. 
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws. 

Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement. 

The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven. 

If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock. 

You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board. 

On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced. 

If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors. 

Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
good luck,

SOURCE: GE Oven door won't unlock after cleaning cycle (and cool down).

Hi,
Cycling the power off and then on again will sometimes reset it...often you will have to call the customer service number to get the steps to take to unlock that...

Also check out this tip...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3969401-self_cleaning_oven_problem

heatman101

SOURCE: Oven/ broiler will not heat and bottom element slow to reach temp

Hi,
Check out this tip that I wrote about this problem...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4511800-oven_problems_electric_oven_heating

heatman101