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Re: Replacing a receptacle
As always when working with electricity, shut off the power. Use a circuit tester to make sure that the power is really off. Unscrew the receptacle's cover plate; be sure you get a replacement receptacle that's the correct type for your wiring?though most receptacles are standard, aluminum wiring should only be connected to receptacles designated CO-ALR.
When installing the new receptacle, connect the black (hot) wire to the brass terminal screw, the white (neutral) wire to the silver screw, and the bare (ground) wire to the green ground screw.
Unscrew the receptacle cover plate and unscrew the receptacle. Disconnect the wires from the terminals.
Form a curl with a pair of needle-nose pliers so the wires hook clockwise around the screws, then tighten the terminal screws. Screw the receptacle to the box and add the cover plate.
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If the noise is emitting from the element the most likely cause is a bad connection where the element plugs into the receptacle. You are likely hearing the voltage/current sparking/arcing between the terminals of the heating element and the prongs inside the element receptacle. When this happen it will require replacing the receptacle and the element because it will burn off the contact points of where the two touches to make the connection. If you just replace the element and not the receptacle too, it can cause the terminals on the new element to burn out. Perhaps get a qualified person to have a look at it - it just may need a service...
So you're replacing the receptacle in the 2 gang box with a switch that will control a receptacle? If so there's no reason you couldn't use the feed from the receptacle. As long as you maintain the integrity of any existing runs through the box...you're not adding any devices really so there shouldn't be a problem with the branch circuit device count. Bear in mind this stuff has the potential to burn your house down so be real clear on what you're doing and make a good secure job of it. When in doubt call in a pro....
change the plug noting the polarity. one wire in the flat cable has a rib running the whole length, the other wire has no rib. the ribbed wire goes on the brass screw in the replacement plug. the non ribbed wire goes on the nickel shaded screw. the green or yellow/green goes on the green screw. the plug is getting warm because the spring tension in the receptacle is getting weak. any little bit of arcing in the receptacle will create heat.
Code actually calls for the refrigerator to be on a separate circuit for this reason. you may have a refrgerator that may have a higher voltage spike at compressor start up and that is causing the trip. You can try upgrading your GFCI to a 20amp (most are 15amp). Although you may have to replace with a standard outlet if the problem does not subside.