What is a receptacle? - APC MasterSwitch Power Receptacle - Power distribution strip- 4 Output (ap95103202) UPS System

Chevrolet 1977 And 1980 C and K Model Fuse Blocks

(The numbers, eg; "UF2" Cargo Area Lamp, are RPO numbers.)

A - Fuse - Traffic Hazard

B - Fuse - Tail, Stop Courtesy Lamps

C - Receptacle - TP2 /M40

D - Fuse - Radio & TCS

F - Receptacle - C91/UF2 (Cargo Area Lamp)/U35/U37

G - Fuse - Heater / Air Cond.

H - Receptacle - C62

I - Fuse - Accessory

J - Fuse - Panel Lights

K - Receptacle - NL2/A33/U16 (Tachometer)

M - Receptacle - Accessory Lamps

N - Not Used

O - Fuse - Reversing Lamps

P - Fuse - Instrument Cluster Feed

Black wire to brass connection on switch. White wire to silver connector on receptacle. Add a wire from the silver side of switch to the brass side of the receptacle. When switch is on current flows through to it to receptacle then out white when something is connected to the receptacle.

Brian:

No need to replace the jack port... If you look carefully at the side of the receptacle, there are threads on the outside periphery of the receptacle. A small nut threads on the receptacle and tightens down the receptacle (the "port").

It may, but it could also be a faulty receptacle depending on how old it is or the amperage draw from the heater may be to high. Especially, if you have another electric appliance plugged into the same receptacle. That's where you need to start troubleshooting. If the wiring and the receptacle is fine, then there is more than likely an electrical short in the heater or the cord from the heater to the receptacle.
In the meantime, unplug the heater from the receptacle and let it cool while you do the troubleshooting. If you decide to remove the receptacle, be sure to turn the circuit breaker feeding that receptacle to OFF. Or you may have a shocking experience.

recheck the wiring in receptacle loose wire --broken wire / connection or improper wiring

As always when working with electricity, shut off the power. Use a circuit tester to make sure that the power is really off. Unscrew the receptacle's cover plate; be sure you get a replacement receptacle that's the correct type for your wiring?though most receptacles are standard, aluminum wiring should only be connected to receptacles designated CO-ALR. When installing the new receptacle, connect the black (hot) wire to the brass terminal screw, the white (neutral) wire to the silver screw, and the bare (ground) wire to the green ground screw. Unscrew the receptacle cover plate and unscrew the receptacle. Disconnect the wires from the terminals. Form a curl with a pair of needle-nose pliers so the wires hook clockwise around the screws, then tighten the terminal screws. Screw the receptacle to the box and add the cover plate.

A special type of receptacle called a GFCI (or GFI), short for ground-fault circuit interrupter, protects kitchen, bathroom, and outdoor receptacles in a home from the serious shock that can occur where electricity and water meet. Identified by the reset and test buttons located on its face, a GFCI will sense even a tiny short and will shut down itself and, in some cases, other receptacles on the same circuit. Just push the reset button to reset the receptacles. Push the test button periodically to insure that the device is working.

"Reverse polarity" is the term used to describe the condition where electrical wires are connected to the wrong terminals of a receptacle; it's a common condition that can be hazardous if the "hot" side of your electrical system gets connected to certain types of lamps or equipment. It's common because it's an easy mistake to make when hooking up wires and because receptacles work fine even when the polarity is reversed. You generally don't know the condition exists unless you look for it. If you think you're home's wiring is a bit haphazard or may contain some conditions of reverse polarity, it's a good idea to check for it. You can buy a simple circuit tester for less than $20. Just plug it into all duplex receptacles; test both the top and bottom. If you discover reverse polarity: 1) Shut off the circuit breaker that serves that receptacle (the tester's lights will go out). 2) Unscrew the cover plate from the receptacle, and use a voltage tester to be sure none of the wires in the electrical box are still "hot." 3) Unscrew or release the wires from the receptacle and re-fasten them to the proper terminals--white to the silver (neutral terminal and black to the brass hot terminal. The bare or green wire should connect to the green screw. 4) Put the cover plate back on, turn the circuit back on, and test the receptacle again. Note: If the tester indicates reverse polarity but the wires are hooked up to the proper terminals, call an electrician.

By far the most common problem with a receptacle is that it doesn?t work. Because receptacles are very inexpensive and easy to replace, it makes sense to replace them when they cease to work properly. But before you go to the trouble of buying a new one and installing it, make sure that the old one is truly defective. For a non-working duplex receptacle, first make sure the problem isn't with the appliance or lamp. Some appliances, such as hairdryers, have overload protectors that automatically shut them off if they begin to overheat. Try a second appliance or lamp in the receptacle. If the receptacle still doesn't work, you'll usually find that the circuit breaker has tripped or the fuse has blown, the receptacle has become faulty, or there is a switch that operates that receptacle and it needs to be turned on. The problem is rarely the wiring. 1) Test the receptacle with a second lamp or appliance. 2) Be sure that one half of the duplex receptacle (or the entire receptacle) isn't controlled by a switch in the room. 3) Check the circuit breaker (or fuse) for that receptacle's circuit to be sure it has not tripped (or blown). If it has, reset the breaker or replace the fuse, and try plugging a working lamp or appliance into the receptacle again. 4) If it still doesn't work, turn off the receptacle's circuit breaker, unscrew the cover plate from the receptacle, and use a voltage tester to be sure none of the wires in the electrical box are still "hot." Then check to be sure that the wires are securely fastened to the receptacle's terminals. 5) Look for signs of charring. Replace the receptacle if it looks damaged. 6) Put the cover plate back on, turn the circuit back on, and try the receptacle again. If it still doesn't work, turn the circuit back off, remove the receptacle cover, and replace the receptacle with one that has the same amp and voltage ratings. 7) If this doesn't solve the problem, call an electrician.