Surface element doesn't work

Hello Miguel;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service appliance technician.

There are two electrical components that will cause this problem. The most probable cause is the burner element. Each of your burner elements have a independent temperature sensor. The sensor controls the burner element temperature.

Substitution Part Number: 4453909 Cost: $85.00

This surface element (part number 4453909) is for electric ranges, including Whirlpool electric range model GJC3034RB00.
Unplug the range or shut off the house circuit breakers to disconnect electrical power to the range before replacing the surface element. Wear gloves to protect your hands when replacing surface element on your electric range.
This is a manufacturer substitution. Part may differ in appearance but is a functional equivalent to priorparts including 9759351.

OR:

PART NUMBER: 8523698 Cost: $71.00

The other less likely electrical component is Surface Element Control Switch. Each burner has a independent control switch.


Cost: $46.00

To check the switch: Remove the switch 2 contacts on the left. With a multi-meter, set the meter to the lowest Ohms (Omega Symbol). Put one meter lead on one switch contact and the other meter lead on the other contact. If the switch is good you meter will read "0" Ohms.

One of your surface elements is bad (the hot-element switch that is part of the element is stuck on). If each element has its own hot-light, then you know which element is bad; but if you have just 1 hot-surface indicator, your problem is figuring out which element is bad. That takes an electronic technician with patience and an ohmmeter.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/ronald_e6b9572cebe3ad27

make this test and fix it. God bless you

Surface Element Switch

If the surface element won't work, and there is another element of the same size on the stove, try switching the elements. If it still won't work, the surface element switch is probably defective. The surface element switch can't be tested or repaired, it will have to be replaced.


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Surface Element Board

If a surface element won't work the surface element board might be defective. Each burner is switched on and off with the help of a relay on the surface element board. If one or more relays has failed the surface element won't work. If two or more burners fail at the same time, this is likely the problem. If only one surface element won't work and the element itself checks out to be good, the surface element board might be defective.


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Coil Surface Element

If the surface element won't work, the coil surface element might be burned out. Most coil surface elements can be pulled out of their socket and checked with an Ohm meter for continuity. If the surface element won't work, check to see if there is any visible damage to the coils. Also, check to be sure the element is pushed all the way into the socket.


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Radiant Surface Element

The most common cause when the surface element won't work is the radiant surface element itself. The radiant surface element - or heating element - can burn out similar to a light bulb. If the surface element won't work and it doesn't have continuity, it will need to be replaced. The radiant surface element is not repairable.


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Solid Surface Element

If the surface element won't work, and the stove has the solid surface element type of heat, it's likely that the solid surface element itself has burned out. The solid surface element works very similarly to other surface elements - inside there is a heating element that glows when electricity is applied to it. As it gets hotter, the heat is transferred to the solid surface element


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Element Receptacle and Wire Kit

If a surface element won't work, there may be a problem in the element receptacle. The surface element plugs onto a terminal block type receptacle. Over time the terminals in the receptacle can have a bad connection and overheat. Look at the receptacle contacts with a flashlight. If the terminals look burnt you will need to replace the element receptacle. also make sure the element prongs are clean and not burnt. If the prongs are burnt bad the element will need to be replaced also.


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Loose or Burnt Wire Connection

If surface element won't work, there might be a burnt wire supplying power to the surface element. Sometimes the wire supplying power to the element burns out right near the element itself. Check for this by just looking at the wires leading to the element. If they're burned out it is usually easy to spot.

Incoming Power Problem

Although not as common, if the surface element won't work it is possible that the appliance is not receiving proper voltage. Electric ranges require 220 volts of alternating current. If for some reason the appliance is receiving significantly less, the surface element won't work. Check for proper voltage using a volt meter at the socket where the appliance plugs in.

The burner element that is staying ON is also the same one causing the surface light to stay on.
The switch that controls the element is bad.
Unplug the range. Open the switch control console and replace the defective switch.
Make sure the range is unplugged because of high voltage in the console.

HI, You will need to change the burner switch. When the element shorted, it took out the switch also. If you need help with part#, please let me know

Thanks
Vic

If the surface elements work your ERC is bad.(clock).
If the surface elements do not work check the circuit for 220 volts.

Check the surface element for continuity.
Check the surface element receptacle for a good contact and voltage..
Check the surface element switch for voltage and continuity.

The exterior panel (stainless in my case) is "glued" by adhesive to a lower metal piece which attaches to the door. I know this because my front panel came unglued and there is no other means of support. I am buying a very expensive new front panel.

CESAR, THE OVEN CONTROL IS THE CLOCK,HOWEVER, ON MANY KITCHEN AID RANGES, THERE IS AN INLINE FUSE 15AMP, THAT IS IN THE OVEN CIRCUIT. I WOULD SUGGEST THAT THE INLINE FUSE BE CHECKED FIRST BEFORE CONDEMNING THE CONTROL.

DAVID, THE GLASS TOP ELEMENTS ARE CONTROLLED BY THE SURFACE SWITCH FOR REGULATING TEMPS. THE SWITCH WILL TURN THE ELEMENT ON AND OFF TO REGULATE TEMP. I WOULD SUSPECT THE SURFACE SWITCH(WHAT THE KNOB IS ATTACHED TO) AS THE DEFECTIVE COMPONENT. THERE IS A HIGH LIMIT SWITCH THAT IS PART OF THE ELEMENT. IF IT WAS BAD, THE HOT SURFACE INDICATOR LAMP WOULD BE LIT ALL THE TIME.

THE ELEMENT IS NOTHING MORE THAN A COIL OF WIRE THAT HEATS WHEN CURRENT IS PASSED THROUGH IT.
IF IT WAS BAD, IT WOULDN'T DO ANYTHING AT ALL.

The component that controls the hot surface light is part of the element. If there is a light for each element you just replace that element. If there's one for the whole surface or each side you'll have to figure out which element is causing the problem.