This troubleshooting approach may be sound, but you need a deep security star screwdriver to open the heater up. I have looked in specialty tool and electronics shops and no one has a screwdriver that gets in deep enough.
You won't go anywhere without this screwdriver, so if anyone can suggest a source, that would be great.
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Re: Honeywell HZ517 Baseboard Heater
You can try to disassemble the heater and look for something wrong like a loose wire:
in order to do so:
Unplug the heater and let it cool completely before disassembling it.
Remove the rear grille and the control knobs.
Remove the front grille by unscrewing the fasteners on the back of the housing.
Remove the front grille by lifting the control housing and pulling the front grille toward you. The motor, fan, and heating element are now accessible for testing and repair.
Remove the thermostat from the control housing and disconnect the wires.
Remove the heat control's mounting screws and clips to access and disconnect wires.
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"Consumers should stop using these heaters immediately, unplug them, and contact HCP at (800) 290-8495 between 8 a.m. and 10 p.m. ET Monday through Sunday or log on to the company's website at www.honeywell.com to determine whether their heater is part of the recall."
It is a switch, therefore power goes in on one side hot, and when the tstat calls for heat it closes and sends the power to the baseboard. Again this is a switch not a power consuming device. Hope this helps
I do believe that there should be a tip switch under the feet and if it is broke off then you need to by pass the switch. You could use a small piece of dowel rod up inside to trip the switch and have heat.
baseboard heaters are usually line voltage thermostats. the wire in your box sounds like a 240 volt circuit. either the 2 blacks or the 2 reds and wire nut the others. I dont know if they need to be connected to each other, not sure where they go or what they are to
first.... did they work in the past?? if so... you may have a defective thermastat. if not, usually it is a incorrect wiring problem. wiring in two baseboard heaters to one thermastat can be tricky if you do not know what you are doing. baseboard heaters by design seldom go bad.... if wired correctly the problem could be a defective thermastat or safety limit switch.
From the two red and two black wires (and the specs in the pdf), your new thermostat sounds like it's designed to directly control the line voltage (120 or 240) to the heater. That's the usual way baseboard heaters are controlled.
Could your wires be red, black, and (old, yellowed) white, the standard colors in a 3-wire power cable? Just the red and black should be enough to control a 120-volt heater so I don't understand what the white would have been used for. If it were my heater I'd take off the cover(s) -- with the power off, of course -- and find out what those wires actually connect to.
OK, here's my guess at this...I hope someone more knowledgable will confirm or correct me.
A line voltage thermostat switches the power to the baseboard heater. In other words, it's just like a wall light switch except it activates and deactivates based on the temperature.
I think your old model CT62 was wired exactly like a light switch. The hot wire to the light is broken then run to the wall switch and then back to the light so there's no neutral wire at a light switch box. This worked fine for your CT62 because it did not need power, it only needed to switch it.
The new model TL7235A1003 requires electrical power because it's programmable so you need both a hot wire and neutral wire at it's installed location. In addition you also need 2 wires leading to the baseboard heater so the thermostat can supply it's power.
I believe L1-L2 are to be connected to the hot/neutral wires, and the Load wires go to the baseboard heater.
If I am correct you will not be able to use this thermostat without some re-wiring.