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Unless your camera remains under warranty, repairing the flash is usually not cost-effective. Repair is not a DIY option and it must be done professionally. If you visit the Olympus website in your country and go to the service page you will often find that there is a fixed price repair menu on offer.
You may find it's cheaper to fit an external flash to the external hotshoe especially if you can buy a good used flash, but you must ensure that you either use an Olympus or Panasonic model; you may use other independent makes such as SunPak or Metz (expensive, but really worth it) but must ensure that they're suitable for digital cameras. Older flashguns designed for 35mm film cameras can pass too much voltage through your digital camera and damage it. You may also need to activate the external flash hotshoe via the menu as on most cameras it's inactive until selected. Note that an Olympus/Panasonic badged unit will give you full automatic operation, but if you use independent models then you will have to set everything yourself for "non-dedicated" models, and on more expensive "dedicated" models you may have fully automatic operation or may have to enter some settings manually. "Dedicated" flashes are those which have electronics and features tailored to particular camera brands.
Although an external flash is bulkier, the trade-off is that even lowly specified models will far exceed the output of your built-in flash. This enables you to use flash at greater distances and also provides more even illumination of the subject.
To get the back off, remove the 4 visible screws on rear side of the cover. You'll then see that its attached at the flash holder. Don't try and force it, there are 2 hidden screws underneath the external flash slot. To access them, you need to slide back the thin metal cover. Place a small screwdriver at the front of the square which holds the external flash and try to push back the metal plate. (I found this by accident having spent hours trying to the back off). It comes off very easily.
Once the back cover comes off you need to remove the 2 ribbon cables and 2 sets of wires. The ribbon cabes come easily once you push down on the small black blobs either side of the cable.
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Hope this solves your problem. Thanks.
Of course there are some who claim that trigger voltage is unimportant.
I tend to believe them ,as there is no documented evidence from anyone that their camera has been harmed by using non proprietary flashes.
Some posters are using older flashes with success and no harmful results. Do you have the nerve to try it? if so let us know.
DMC-FZ10 and an external flash with a manual trigger can do it. Just set a high aperture number, slow shutter speed, take the pictures...change camera direction a little..then as soon as you can, re-trigger the flash manually.
Depending on the break, the FZ20 may be enough. But it's a tough sport to photograph from shore. That said, there isn't a comperable non dslr digital. For the best shots, I personally don't think 432mm is enough unless the break is close to shore.
The tele-extenders would help and there are plenty of threads here about them and their quality. Most have had good luck. I assume you'd be using a tripod. IS can't handle handheld shots with more than the standard lens IMHO. A fluid head is very helpful for the necessary panning shots of surfing.
According to this site, the Sunpak 1600A is NOT USABLE with the FZ20:
The tested voltage of the 1600A is 46.6V, which is WAY above the 24V max specified by Panasonic. Don't even try it...